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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay this is turning into a project but.......

Is it possible to drop the pan and change the front and rear seals with the engine still in the veicle on an 86 Ramcharger, it looks like it may drop enough but without dropping it ya cant tell how far the crank hangs down.
Wondering if anyone has any experience, if th can come down enough without pulling the engine or if I have to raise the block ?
 

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86 Ram Charger DC said:
Okay this is turning into a project but.......

Is it possible to drop the pan and change the front and rear seals with the engine still in the veicle on an 86 Ramcharger, it looks like it may drop enough but without dropping it ya cant tell how far the crank hangs down.
Wondering if anyone has any experience, if th can come down enough without pulling the engine or if I have to raise the block ?
I did it on my 77 M880 with a 318
 

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I just did the oil pan on my 77 powerwagon because the dipstick tube was broken off in the block. The pan will come off with a little patience then you remove the oil pump, rear main cap and use a special tool or homemade job to push the top part of the seal out (be carefull not to scratch the crank journal) slip the new seal in the slot and push around then install the other half in the cap and torque the cap.

this is the procedure for a 2 piece seal. i think that later models have a one piece seal

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Man........ I hope its a 2 piece seal, just sounds easier.

Any input from some Ramcharger owners ?
 

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On a 4WD ramcharger, the oil pan should come off with minimal dificulty. You may have to turn the crank so that the throws on the front are up inside the block, but then it should slide out. As for the seals, just like gooseman said, drop the oil pan remove oil pump, and remove rear bearing cap. The seal should be a two piece seal. The old styles are a rope seal, new ones are neoprene. The front seal is in the timing chain cover, so you will have to remove the water pump harmonic balancer, and then the chain cover.
Also, If you have some troubles getting the oil pan off, it may help to jack up the vehicle by the frame so the axle will hang down a little.
C.J.
 

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i just did it TWICE on my77 PW 360... never had a problem EXEPT that the pan was damn near superglued on.... other than that its easy to get off...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cool, thanks guys, it appears that I have an oil leak back there and now with the intake and everything of I cant tell if its coming from the rear of the intake, the distributor or the rear main, so I am changing them all.:)
 

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86 Ramcharger DC,
Don't forget to reseal threads for the oil sending unit back there on the block. If you are going to do the front seal too, then you might consider putting a new timing chain and gears. The cover is going to be off anyways and if it is the stock factory one it needs to be changed. The factory ones have a nylon ring gear on the cam drive that grenades with time and age and that will hurt your motor. New ones cost about 30 bucks. I had leaks everywhere on mine but it migrated. Started with the rear main, fixed it then it moved to the front seal, fixed that, then the valve covers decided they hadn't had enough attention and so and so on and so on!

Farmer Ted, you should be able to do it no problemo, mine was stuck on pretty good to the block (amazing something can leak that much but no be loose!) but it slides out after you remove the starter, trans cover plate, and the engine trans braces. Don't forget to remove the dip stick from the tube before you start,.... guess how I know this!

Cheers

Chris
 
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