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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took the RC to local tranny shop to have them do a service. Called them to see what was up and they said, in addition to the mounts being shot, the cooler lines are all dicked up. For as long as I have owned the truck(4 years) the tranny lines have gone to a tranny cooler in front of the radiator. They said that the lines have to go to a place inside the rad, then to the other cooler and back to the tranny. I put in a new radiator about a year ago and did not notice. Oh well do the work.
Anyway, they also said that my linkage from carb to kickdown lever is not working right, that I knew. My problem is that it is a Carter carb with a lokar kickdown cable. Nobody sells the adapter that makes the KD linkage move forward while the throttle moves back. I have tried to fab a part but that was a bust. The bracket keep moving and did not stay in one spot. Any ideas on how to make it work? I am at wits end. Thanks
 

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bluebeast said:
.....They said that the lines have to go to a place inside the rad, then to the other cooler and back to the tranny. I put in a new radiator about a year ago and did not notice. Oh well do the work....
Yeah, you bypassed the tranny cooler in the radiator. Thats is not a problem. Some trucks w/ automatics do not have a radiator mounted tranny cooler. So long as your aftermarket cooler has enough surface area to cool the tranny, you are fine.

Anyway, they also said that my linkage from carb to kickdown lever is not working right, that I knew. My problem is that it is a Carter carb with a lokar kickdown cable. Nobody sells the adapter that makes the KD linkage move forward while the throttle moves back. I have tried to fab a part but that was a bust. The bracket keep moving and did not stay in one spot. Any ideas on how to make it work? I am at wits end. Thanks
Turn the end of the cable around so that it pulls in the opposite direction, then hook it up to the carb.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As for the tranny cooler, the shop has put it "right" and I hope that it does not get messed up. Still thinking about the linkage issue. Thanks
 

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I just installed a lokar kickdown on my 318 and it runs to the back of the tranny and attaches with a clip that is attached to the kickdown cable housing. It works backward from the factory kickdown cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When you installed the cable and ran it down to the lever at the tranny, did you have to loop it back toward itself and use a bolt to hold it to the rear of the tranny then connect to the lever? As for the throttle area, how did you get the throttle to move back while allowing the kickdown to move toward the front of the motor at WOT?
 

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IIRC--you had the Lokar cable hooked up correctly last you posted on this, but the linkage arm at the carb did not have enough throw to pull the tranny linkage arm through it's full range of motion.....is this correct or is my memory that bad? :eek: If this is the case, you have two options:

1) Fab a longer arm or extension for the carb linkage arm (so it pulls more cable), or
2) Drill a new hole further inboard on the tranny lever arm and attach the cable there (reduces the amount of cable that must be pulled to move the tranny lever through its full range of motion)

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have forgoten what I posted about this but the issue is the way the kickdown linkage moves in the same direction as the throttle cable. At the linkage hookup, the kickdown moves toward the firewall when the gas is given. The tranny shop made it clear that the kickdown lever on the tranny must move back when as the gas is applied. The routing on the cable makes it (as it is now) move forward as gas is given. The problem is getting the two cables to move in opposite directions. I tried to make a straight bracket that came off the throttle arm to connect the kickdown cable to. The problem there is that the bracket would move. I was on line the other day with buchilloin preformance out of SC and they have a kit for 110.00. I would have to buy that plus a couple of other small parts to get it together but that is the last resort. Did this ranting make any sense? Thanks Birk
 

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bluebeast said:
At the linkage hookup, the kickdown moves toward the firewall when the gas is given.
Does this linkage stick up over the pivot point too? (such that if you mounted the cable to the opposite end of the arm it is hooked up to now, it would pull the cable AWAY from the firewall? If yes, move the cable there. If no, you will need to make a "U" in the cable so it is pulled as throttle is applied. This will require a simple bracket to hold the cable in position.

The routing on the cable makes it (as it is now) move forward as gas is given. The problem is getting the two cables to move in opposite directions.
Need to make a "U" in the cable at the trans so the cable pulls the lever back. Cable will need a simple bracket to hold it in position here too.

I will see if I can draw what I am describing and post it...

-SM
 

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Here is a "picture" of what I described above. If it is difficult to read, red denotes cable brackets, green is the Lokar cable, blue denotes the carb and trans linkage arms.



In case you were wondering, no, I can't draw :-\ ;D

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not to bad on the drawing. The cable on the tranny is already that way, "U" back on to the lever. As for the carb, found a peice of the old hardware and mounted it to the carb linkage. The cable now pulls opposite the throttle cable but not much forward. Took it for a test drive and no shift at all. I put the tension on the kickdown cable in sinc with WOT. That means that the lever is all the way back at WOT with a spring holding tension toward the front. Any ideas on different setup? Thanks
 

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Sounds like you have it hooked up to pull everything the right direction, but do not have enough cable travel....did I read that right?

I put the tension on the kickdown cable in sinc with WOT. That means that the lever is all the way back at WOT with a spring holding tension toward the front.
Again...so I understand correctly.....the cable should be under tension at all* times. I.E. As soon as the throttle begins to move, the trans lever begins to move. *There may be a slight delay here, so as to be able to adjust WOT to occur at the same time as full line pressure (= trans lever all the way back)

Is the problem simply not enough cable travel? If so, either need a longer carb linkage (to pull more cable) or re-orient the angle of the cable at the carb so the linkage pulls roughly perpendicular away from the cable.

I will try to post pics of my setup tonight. (It is different from yours, but may give you some ideas)

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks, sounds good on the pic post if you can. I cant understand why no shift in this set up but so-so shift in original set up backasswards. Maybe let kickdown lever all the way forward when carb is closed? Maybe pics will help. Thanks again
 

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This pic shows the carb hookup (on a slant, my carb is positioned 90* off from a V8, but the principle is the same) at idle. Throttle cable is on the bottom, firewall side of the linkage. KD cable is on the top of the linkage, carb side (pics taken looking down through the hood, facing front of the truck). The spring you see in the pic is just a secondary throttle return spring.



Second pic shows the carb hookup at WOT.



Note how the "pull" of the carb linkage is such that at approx 1/2 throttle, the carb linkage would be roughly perpendicular to both the throttle and KD cable. This allows for maximum cable travel for both cables. (Imagine carb linkage arm in the vertical position at 1/2 throttle, both cables would be roughly horizontal)

If this is how yours is set up, and you have it set such that at WOT the trans lever is all the way back, you may have too much cable travel; in which case you need to move the KD cable closer to the pivot point on the carb linkage (so it pulls less cable as throttle is applied). At idle, the trans lever should be nearly all the way forward. A little slack in the KD cable at idle is OK, as long as the trans lever begins to move just as, or just after throttle is applied.

Any of this making any sense?

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nice pics, thanks. I will check it out tomorrow and see what the deal is. I will be under the truck for most of the day messing with the rear main oil seal and leak. Got to get that fixed and install new starter and things Thanks again Birk
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
GOT IT GOING!!!! The kickdown is working now. Toyed around with it at the carb and made minor adjustments and volla, good to go.
 
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