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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Actually the diff inside the case had tons of slop when shifting from park to drive. The part time kit literally removed all the slop when shifting from reverse to drive. By removing the diff it was more solid.

The older shaft style did use the thrust bearing kit just like the hub style as you said. The hub style we used in a sense makes a solid shaft. According to mile Marker the kit with the bolt together hub is the same dimension or exact length as the old style solid shaft. So in theory should work just as good.

But I am no engineer I was just told that by the engineer that designed it. With the little mechanical skills I have I can see what he's talking about as it seems very simple.

I will take quite a bit of time to go through it and see what happened. Really is anyone's guess as to what happened. I am going to use the spare case I have to mock up scenerios and see what I can diagnose and see exactly how that thrust kit applies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Well I got home and the boy had it torn apart already so I didn't get to check it in loc.

But what we found was the thrust washers and the bearing that came with the kit is gone. Found it in peices at the bottom of the case. Don't see any real reason why it did that. Nothing else looks worn. The oil and speedo gears look fine. Not crushed or melted.

Here's some pics of the broken kit.

He said he can't switch to lo or lo loc. With the case disassembled can we try and switch the shifter to check it or will stuff start falling out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
More pics

That large thrust washer rest on that spacer and the teeth of the gear. The teeth are flat on the edges. I did notice the spacer seems to go in further leaving a gap between the spacer and the thrust washer. Thus making the thrust washer only rest on the edges of the gears. Seems like it would be advantages to have that spacer ride on the center of the thrust washer to spread the load over the washer.

But I see no real reason why the parts failed.

The only thing to do now is to clean it all up/out and reassemble exactly how the directions say.

Hard to believe though that the thrust washers just failed. I don't think those things just fail like that without somethjng causing it.
Maybe it all got hot and expanded to take up the end play and just crushed them. Maybe the boy forgot to put it in loc to lube it. Who knows. If that's the case maybe he will realize how imperative it is.
 

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hate say it but that looks like SHOCK LOAD failure / forward - reverse type stuck in mud/snow or try'in to do a burn-out / because the parts are perfect WEAR wise
 

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that or slamming it into LOW or HIGH while moving or under throttle
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
That's what I thought to, like trying to put it in loc even you have to pop the handle. So I wonder if doing that or even doing it while driving maybe or maybe popping out while driving?

Unless it would take alot more force to do that like you said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
OK so that seems like the only thing that may have caused that. So will have to keep in mind not to slam it into loc.

How bought it not going into lo loc or lo? Seems like the shifter won't go forward.

Is it possible to try it apart like that or will the bearings fall out? Probably not a good idea anyway. But Id hate to put it all together and not have it be shifting right. Possible a little bearing roller from that bearing is stuck or a peice of the washer.
 

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with ALL those pieces l,d take it ALL apart just to be on the safe side , that or put your spare case in there
 

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l have very GOOD 203 diagrams if you want them
 

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Thats not a lube issue.

How well (flat) does the bearing fit into these two parts?

I would assemble the puzzle pieces. then decide if you want to take the rest apart, or risk running it. You can take the PTO cover off to take a look in the chain section.

I would take the pics of the bearing and send them to milemarker, and get their opinion.




 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
The first thrust washer fits down into the groove in between all the cogs making the cogs and the first washer totally all one flush area. Then the bearing then the second thrust washer. I guess I shouldn't call it a thrust washer as mile Marker states there kit eliminates any thrust forward and backward. So I guess it's just a washer to provide a flat surface for the bearing.

Likely going to take off that pto cover and search for the rest of the parts. Then reassemble it and run it.

Its been running like that for several thousand miles now anyway. Then I can rebuild the spare case as noted and have it aside for any future emergency. But won't be able to rebuild either at the moment.
Especially if I'm going to go to the extent of rebuilding I would definately want a new chain. I did find someone that custom makes them now but they said 8 to 10 weeks to make one and they are 310.00.

I will definately send some pics to mile Marker for sure. Bummer thing is I think the lead engineer that designed all this passed away. Atleast last time I spoke to them he was super sick and they said he probably won't be back. Hes the guy that designed all there stuff for the np203 and hubs for full time back in the day. We will see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Can we take that rectangle cover off with out anything falling out? Want to make sure nothing falls out.

Going to check in there for more parts.
 

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Yes, the rectangle cover with 6 bolts, is the PTO cover I mentioned.
 

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Reach in there with a screw driver, and try to estimate how much chain slop you have. From what I see, I would not replace the chain. or rebuild the case. Depends on how much of the bearing you can retrieve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Chain goes up and down on the bottom side moves up and down about an inch.
Taking pto cover off now. Will just have to make a gasket. But hopefully we find it. We are missing about 7 needles still and what ever shards we can find.
 

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Either one would work fine. I would lean towards the high tac sealant.
 
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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Got it all together with our. 020 thousands endplay all seems good.

Did what you said and put it in hi loc and the endplay is gone. There is less then. 010 when it's in loc. Don't know if this is suppose to be like that. The directions don't specify what position to check the end play. I am trying to think why would it tighten that all up. While holding the yoke towards the front of the truck in hi, then having him switch it to loc while I am holding it, you can feel the yoke be pushed back and you can feel it all in the drive shaft. Doesn't make sense.

When the fork is engaged does it move this gear back also? That's the only that rides on the bearing and washer kit. I don't think it moves back cause even with the differential in there that would mean that gear would engage into the diff gears but they are always engaged.

When we had it open I tried to move it in lock by hand but just that gear moves back.
 

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