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well from what you saying it aint enuf or something is wrong
These parts are not from the shim pack. So more likely something is wrong. Daryl was careful to follow the instructions back when he did the install.

Here's those pieces we found in that rear housing but it doesn't resemble anything that's on the diagram or the thrust bearing that came from the kit.

 

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when were the pieces found?
 

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I take it that was a few months back when he replaced the rear seal, and found the bearing loose.
 

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Well if that came out of it, putting it back together and running it wasnt wise. From what I have seen of those "cog" kits they usually include a thrust washer or bearing that rides against the differential and the differential can chew them up, that sure looks like a chewed up thrust washer to me.....Mile marker can say what they want, there is no good NP203 part time kit IMO
 

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^^^ Yes, part-time kits ruin an otherwise fine transfer case.

Bucky
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Short of knowing where the peices came from after inspection, at the time we sent photos on here an tried our best to identify what they were. Couldn't find anything wrong with it or any obvious peice missing. Wasn't about to take apart the transfer case and play 52 pick up with all the roller bearings. Had no choice but to assemble and run it for the time being.

I'll figure it out. It was put together correctly, and worked great. Just because something went wrong doesn't at all mean it was from the part time kit. Especially being the chain has like and inch and a half of play so I am sure this thing has had many miles on it. If anything taking the load off the chain that is that stretched out on pure pavement is probably prolonging the life a bit so the boy can have his fun with it.

I personally think the kit is a good kit. Was the case meant for it? No, but isn't that hot rodding? People have modified every aspect of every vehicle forever and some of the best things have come from those mods.

I see absolutely no difference in this kit with the two peice hub then the supposed solid shaft they used to make. Literally it has no play and when you assemble it, it literally mashes the cogs together making it a solid shaft.

Not getting defensive I just really think there is nothing wrong with the kit and have heard of many many people running them for years with no problem.

IMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
So figured out what the peices were. The new thrust bearing kit came in from mile Marker and the peices match the thickness and width of the new thrust washers.

Obviously that little thrust bearing is probably chewed to hell in the bottom of the case. Question is how much damage did all that cause.

We will si this weekend. Hopefully not much.

I bet the endplay was not enough and when everything expanded it put too much heat and stress on those thrust washers making them break. Mile Marker did tell me that more play would be better then not enough as usually is the case. Unless something else cause it that's the only thing I can think.

Hopefully with those missing it didn't wear the hub out requiring a new one. Will see this weekend. I'll have to make my own gaskets as I would have to buy all the gaskets just for the 2 I need.
 

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Hello everybody, I don't know if you all remember but a while back I posted after we installed the part time conversion mile Marker kit that the rear output yoke goes in and out about a half inch. It did not do this after the initial install.

My question is, is the rear output bearing suppose to be pressed into the end cone housing? I noticed when we changed the bearings that the rear one just slides in and out. It fits snug but it can slide out with just some picks. My theory is that if the bearing can slide in and out so easy then I guess the shaft seal is literally holding the bearing and complete output shaft in.

It seems as the truck gets hot the cone can expand and the bearing along with the complete output shaft can slide in and out a bit over a quarter inch.

Or is the rear output shaft seal suppose to be pressed in till it hits the bearing? The seal we used has no lip and can be pressed in further if it's suppose to be. But again this would mean the seal is holding all that together.

Does my description make sense and does this seem why the entire shaft and yoke would go in and out.

I ask as we checked everything for vibration that we are still getting. Tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, mount bolts and nuts all tight, bushings seem fine.

I drove the truck myself and it didn't vibrate at all. I then pulled the truck over and in neutral on flat ground I was able to move the yoke in and out. I left it out and continued the drive. At that point is when I finally felt the vibration.

If this is the case then this would mean the internal shaft that the rear output shaft rides on is not fully engaged on the internal differential case shaft. Vibration point?

It seems like the vibration is a real heavy deep central vibration to the truck which makes me think it's the transfer case. It also seems that weight in the bed has an affect like my son said. I am wondering if the weight in the vehicle and hitting a hump in the road could be extending the drive shaft on the upstroke thus pulling the shaft out and then it vibrates. This would explain why it's so intermittent and weight sensitive.

Since the shaft is not suppose to move in and out and should only have a few thousands of shaft endplay this is the only thing I see wrong and has to be fixed to see if this is the culprit. If not then at least it's fixed and we can look else where.
I've never know anyone who has installed a Mile Marker kit in the transfer case. So I'll ask you from your personal experience... Is there any way to tell that there is a Mile Marker kit installed on an NP203 without tearing into it? I have a 74 RC with the Mile Marker hubs and what I believe is an original Tranny and T-Case in the bed. But I have no idea if they did the full conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
There is a way but need more info. As you mentioned it's not installed? If so I guess that would be a little harder to tell. You would have to adjust the leveler mechanism and make sure it's in hi or lo but as long as it's not in lock. Then turn the rear output and see if the front output spins at the same time. If it doesn't then it should have the part time conversion. If it was in the truck it would be real easy. Since you have the front hubs if you unlocked them and the truck drives forward them you must have it as a np203 full time won't drive forward under load cause the inner differential on the case would cause it to slip and the front would just spin. Kinda like a rear diff on an axle.

Let me know if that makes sense?
 

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The easy way to tell, is put the transfer in low, or high, and see if you can turn the front output while holding the input, and rear output still. Yes, it has a part time case, no it does not.

So figured out what the peices were. The new thrust bearing kit came in from mile Marker and the peices match the thickness and width of the new thrust washers.

Obviously that little thrust bearing is probably chewed to hell in the bottom of the case. Question is how much damage did all that cause.

We will si this weekend. Hopefully not much.

I bet the endplay was not enough and when everything expanded it put too much heat and stress on those thrust washers making them break. Mile Marker did tell me that more play would be better then not enough as usually is the case. Unless something else cause it that's the only thing I can think.

Hopefully with those missing it didn't wear the hub out requiring a new one. Will see this weekend. I'll have to make my own gaskets as I would have to buy all the gaskets just for the 2 I need.
I did not realize the kit came with the thrust bearing, that explains why it was found in the rear. I am going to put my money on the parts being good enough to keep running. Reasoning is they are not being used as gears, so abnormal wear from the extra play will not hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
That's what I was thinking, and hoping. If not i have a spare case for parts. Also some guy just put a YouTube video on exactly how to rebuild np203 case. So since I have a rebuild kit here already that we only used a few parts from I might just rebuild the spare case this winter for the fun of it.
 

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It will be interesting to see the rest of the parts. That does not look like failure from tight clearances. But I also do not see signs of over heating. I would like to see what the other two parts look like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Will definately post some pics.

Its possible it failed in the lock position.

At least I know now to give it a little more endplay. Since it's still working as it should with almost a quarter inch or more if endplay I will give it more room to work. Hopefully it's not trashed. I have new needle bearings from the rebuild kit that go in the output shaft so maybe I will replace those. I will do a thorough analysis of it.
 

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How did it shift from 2wd, to 4wd (or high, to high loc)? If you remember, check the end play in loc before ypu open it up. Then when you put it together, check the end play in high, and high loc to see if there is a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Will do.

Only checked it in hi with the vehicle stopped on flat ground. With any pressure on the trans on a slope it doesn't move. That's why for a while we thought it was fine cause we were checking on a slope and it wouldn't move.

But it shifts just fine. No clunks it's real smooth.

I know No one likes the part time kit but it really did help alot with daily drivability. If it wasn't for that I would have left it. Never noticed any gas savings but then again never really calculated it. But it drives really well. It grabbed alot when it was full time. Also I really think it's helping prolong the chain life. Especially since you cant get a new chain except I think someone's custom making them now for 325.00. Either way I think it's better then the full time for how we use it.
 

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Yea, I have no problem with your decision.

If you were checking it on the hill with the drive shaft on, that makes sense, as there was tension on the drive shaft.

When you assemble it, take a ton of pics. Especially get me some pics of the thrust bearing in place here. and how it fits against the rear output assembly.
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Also put a bit of grease on the thrust bearing before you assemble it.
 

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I figured you did. I do not see signs of low lube, or high heat on those pics. Shattering like that is usually from bending, or twisting. From that pic, it does not look like it has a great support against the shaft coming from the range box.
 

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The output shaft from the range box engaged a set of splines in the middle of the differential. That drives the differential cross and gears or the tabs for 501 part-time kit. The gears or the part-time kit then drive the crown gear on the rear output shaft. You start adding up all the slop in all those pieces by the time you get to the rear yoke your getting a lot of play. The shaft replacement kit drives the rear output directly off the range box output shaft. Both of them use that thrust washer though and as Super said it has very little support. 20 thousandths seems like a bit much to me, Im wondering if the extra slop isnt wearing the thrust washers prematurely.
 
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