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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everybody, I don't know if you all remember but a while back I posted after we installed the part time conversion mile Marker kit that the rear output yoke goes in and out about a half inch. It did not do this after the initial install.

My question is, is the rear output bearing suppose to be pressed into the end cone housing? I noticed when we changed the bearings that the rear one just slides in and out. It fits snug but it can slide out with just some picks. My theory is that if the bearing can slide in and out so easy then I guess the shaft seal is literally holding the bearing and complete output shaft in.

It seems as the truck gets hot the cone can expand and the bearing along with the complete output shaft can slide in and out a bit over a quarter inch.

Or is the rear output shaft seal suppose to be pressed in till it hits the bearing? The seal we used has no lip and can be pressed in further if it's suppose to be. But again this would mean the seal is holding all that together.

Does my description make sense and does this seem why the entire shaft and yoke would go in and out.

I ask as we checked everything for vibration that we are still getting. Tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, mount bolts and nuts all tight, bushings seem fine.

I drove the truck myself and it didn't vibrate at all. I then pulled the truck over and in neutral on flat ground I was able to move the yoke in and out. I left it out and continued the drive. At that point is when I finally felt the vibration.

If this is the case then this would mean the internal shaft that the rear output shaft rides on is not fully engaged on the internal differential case shaft. Vibration point?

It seems like the vibration is a real heavy deep central vibration to the truck which makes me think it's the transfer case. It also seems that weight in the bed has an affect like my son said. I am wondering if the weight in the vehicle and hitting a hump in the road could be extending the drive shaft on the upstroke thus pulling the shaft out and then it vibrates. This would explain why it's so intermittent and weight sensitive.

Since the shaft is not suppose to move in and out and should only have a few thousands of shaft endplay this is the only thing I see wrong and has to be fixed to see if this is the culprit. If not then at least it's fixed and we can look else where.
 

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There is no way you should be getting that much movement. Hopefully it is just the big ass nut on the end of the shaft that did not get tightened, but you would likely see the nut not moving, inside the hub.

Is there any side to side movement, or just in and out?


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Side to side would be extremally minimal less then 10 thousand.

In and out only. Roughly 3/8 of an inch. The nut is tight. Took the shaft out and checked the nut. Grabbing the yoke and pushing and pulling, the nut, yoke, shaft everything attached to the yoke moves in and out uniformly.

Our bearing comes straight out if the back if you remove the seal and the yoke. When we had a bad seal we pulled the bearing straight off the back to check it for damage and then slid it back in and followed it with a new seal.

Looking at the Pic seems to show the bearing is installed from the inside with a lip. Ours is not like that it's opposite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Maybe I am mistaken, maybe we took the rear cone off to remove it.

Something is allowing it to go in and out. I wonder if the oil gear could have broken off?

Something is wrong, missing or broken or moves with heat.

When put together fresh and new we had 2 thousands of endplay. We followed the directions exactly.
 

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Thats interesting, by the pic, the bearing and seal are different diameters.
Maybe I am mistaken, maybe we took the rear cone off to remove it.

Something is allowing it to go in and out. I wonder if the oil gear could have broken off?

Something is wrong, missing or broken or moves with heat.

When put together fresh and new we had 2 thousands of endplay. We followed the directions exactly.
Ok, that makes more sense. Still afraid you are going to have to open things up, and take a look.
It looks like the movement is controlled by the diff gears (or 2wd kit in your case), and the shims at the back by the bearings. Not even close to 3/8" of shims, so even if you missed them, that is not the case. Looks like it is down to the 2wd kit went bad, the rear case is bad, or a bearing or two went bad.

Have you been engaging the 4wd as required every so often? Its sounding like the top end may not have gotten enough oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes been engaging weekly, every time I drive it and he's been doing it. He does it every time he goes to school in the morning.

Here's a link to the kit instructions.


You can download the instructions and get an idea. There is a thrust bearing with washers that have to be added and that may be bad.

Yes the shims were only like 40 thousands thick so that wouldn't be it.

Technically the hole hub shouldn't go any further forward due to the spacer on the shaft then the thrust washer and bearing from the kit.

I have another case to mess with and gets parts from so will have to pull it apart again and see what's going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here's those pieces we found in that rear housing but it doesn't resemble anything that's on the diagram or the thrust bearing that came from the kit.
 

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Yea, I could not remember which kit you used. If you got the play set right, that kinda rules out mismatched parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Video won't load.

Is that rear output shaft bearing supposed to be pressed in? Or does it just slide in and out if of the housing?
 

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Yea, videos have to be posted off site, like youtube or somewhere. Its in the works, but I would not hold my breath.

Those parts look like a thrust bearing, but I do not know of any in the rear section.

I do not recall on the bearings fit, I'm thinking just a slight press, like fingers pushing. I will try to check mine tomorrow. Either way, that would not give you that much play, You are talking bearing number 26 right?

How oily was the bearing when you changed the seal? Of course if the seal was leaking, then the bearing is getting enough oil, so dumb question. I could guess all night, but until you can dig in there, it is all just a guess.
 

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Those pieces have me intrigued.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes bearing 26. I have a new thrust bearing and shim kit coming from Mile marker. Won't be able to dig into it till next weekend. But yes that's the only way to find out what's going on. I have a feeling the oil pump gear broke in half . But also where and what are those prices from. We shall see. I will definitely be taking pics and posting.
 

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Part time kits have been the demise of many a 203....the best running 203s are those left alone. How old is the kit? Make sure the spider gears they give you in the kit arent worn. So if im understanding you, you can pull the rear output shaft bearing straight out of the back of the tailcone? Bearing 26 should have to be installed from the inside? I dont see how you can pull it out the back...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was mistaken. The bearing is installed from the inside but it still comes out by hand.

The kit I have is the mile Marker 501 kit. I went as far as getting the old two peice diff casing to clamp it all together.

I think the 203 that suffered were the ones that used the pressed style hub that holds the diff gears. I spoke in length to the engineer at mile Marker. He said they couldn't admit it back then but today he can say the old style two peice that bolts together didn't fail, it was the cheaper later version that just had the stamped hub.

I am sure it's not the ideal way to go but it's all we could do at the time. Eventually the truck will be sold or converted to a magnum or even hemi now that everyone's making it as easy as an ls swap. Along with that would definately be a trans and tcase to match.

If we decide to keep it in the family that is. If not someone else can do what they want with it.

But it's likley to stay home. If the kid decides he wants a new truck I will keep it and go for gold on it.
 

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The mile marker shaft kit was by far the best. The 501 kit still uses the "cogs" which will eventually wear. Are you sure you installed all the shims in the rear section? something almost has to be missing to make that much play...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes we made sure we had 20 thousands of endplay. Took several attempts.

Yes the shaft was the best but according to the engineer at mile Marker thay stopped making the shaft not only from lack of demand but the cog kit in the two peice is about as good. Really just makes the whole thing essentially a solid shaft like the solid shaft design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Correct. We used the two that came in the pack and removed one of the originals until we got 20 thousands. We will take it all back apart and see what's going on.
 

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well from what you saying it aint enuf or something is wrong
 
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