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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Truck ran fine for months. One afternoon it wouldn't crank up at all. Knew it was an ignition problem mainly because I've been running 12 volts without a resistor. Bought a nice Mallory box. That didn't fix it. Replaced the cap, and that seemed to fix everything. Fires right up, no problem. But now in the chilly mornings i get no spark from the distributor. Come home in the afternoon, and it fires right up. How does 10-20 degrees cause a distributor not to spark ??? The box and coil are fine btw. When i jump the wires it sparks everytime. I'm going to replace the rotor next and hope that solves the issue or throw a resistor on the distributor since it's suppose to have one. I really don't want to buy another distributor, it's only a year old. Any insight is appreciated.
 

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12 volts with out a resistor feeding a external resistor type ( dodge) coil ruins the coil eventually . Then temps cause a internal short to come/go . Testing it when the short is NOT present due to temps , gives false results .
 

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what year EDSEL you working on

howdy / please fill out your SIG that shows at the bottom of your posts with your truck info = it cuts down on the BS and and you recieve better answers because members dont hafta guess which year toyota you drive  ???

NOTE / if you dont know howto fill out your SIG just ask me or a Mod for help
 

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BOY members would be pulling their hair out try,in to help you and guess what that combo is without the info[ TBI truck - MPFI motor with a Carb ] = holy shit

where did you get a 6V Dist , because they never made a dodge small block 6V Dist - unless yer talkin a points Dist
 

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and all with out a resistor on an '89 !
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The distributor is a proform part#440-430. Proform 12v coil. Mallory hyfire box. Combo runs great. Just refuses to spark in the mornings. Coil and box test out fine. Ordered a cap and rotor for it.
 

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Are you getting 12 volts to the coil when it's cold? Have you checked the air-gap in the distributor? It could be that the gap is marginal and when it's warm and the metal expands you have a signal; when it's cold the air gap is too great. I would at least theorize that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Distributor air gap... something I’ve never heard of and finally some useful info. Bravo to you sir! I will be checking this for sure. Besides condensation, thermal expansion was the only other thing i could think it might be.
 

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you did not offer much info , but slowly it comes out , you stated you suspected coil because you'd been running with out a resistor , so with out year of truck or aftermarket additions the assumption was you had a ecu dodge system , and a by passed resistor . so hot/cold changes a damaged coil was my answer . Also know that there is a coil IN the distributor which can also be effected by temperature in the same way . ( the windings on the "pick -up are a coil ) 
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Never said I thought it was the coil... always the distributor. The distributor for some reason, will not tell the ignition box to spark in the mornings. It starts and runs perfectly during the day. If replacing the rotor doesn’t work I’m just going to buy a new distributor. Not sure what else to do.
 

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there I go again , reading running 12 volts with out a resistor , knew it was an  ignition problem ,,  and I'm thinking of the coil as being part of the ignition , my mistake , sorry . Me, if I was sure it was the dizzy , I'd replace the pick up in the dizzy , the windings ( coil )  may be bad ,  or at least check the gap , like suggested ,  before I bought another one .
 

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you asked what in the system can be effected by temp change . suggested was air gap , and coils ( wound wires are coils , as in the dizzy and the "ignition coil" ) . temps can effect them , 12 volts , or otherwise .
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Things i will definitely check / do... distributor air gap, and swapping in a different coil along with a new cap and rotor for good measure. Thanks for everyone’s help, I’ll post my findings.
 
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