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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys i have a 86 RC with a 360, 727, 208 yatta you know the rest.

i have had no issues at all with my RC intill last night, last night i took my longest contunial highway drive about 30 mins north to go mudding with a friend, all was well intill i got about 10 miles from my destination.

i had been cruising about 60-65 the whole time with no problem, when all of a sudden i could feel the truck losing power, i gave a bit more throttle. then she started hicuping out the intake and exhaust like no other, it was dark out i made it to my destination and still had the problem but i could sort of get going by pumping the pedal a little bit, i proceded to go mudding despiet the problem ( i probly shoudent have), all my fluids were and are good, i still have this problem.

i have already looked at the timing, distbutor cap/rotor/ all of which are fine, it does not back fire anymore but has no power and bogs down when you go wot, it revs up and then bogs and revs some more not like sliping trans but just no power. then when i let off of wot it picks up speed alittle bit.

any ideas?    Thanks
 

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Fuel filter or pump.  ;)
 

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Make sure you have gas...
 

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ToxicDoc said:
Make sure you have gas...
LOL.. yeah I forgot about that one........... ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ToxicDoc said:
Make sure you have gas...
lol that was the first thing i did was put 5 gallons in it did not remedy, will replace fuel filter tomarrow, fuel pump is few months old
 

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Check the float level on the carb. A sunken float or leaky needle valve can cause some of those problems.
 

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Asymetric said:
Check the float level on the carb. A sunken float or leaky needle valve can cause some of those problems.
Good point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
changed out the fuel filter, problem solved.  funny how simple it was never would have thought about it. 

Thanks Guys!  8)
 

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littleboybigtoy said:
changed out the fuel filter, problem solved. funny how simple it was never would have thought about it.

Thanks Guys! 8)
LOL....... yep I learned that one when I was 16. ;D
 

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Yep.  Always nice when it's the simple things.  Learned that on an atv.
 

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I am having a similar issue, but no backfiring.  87, 318, twd, automatic.  I don't think my temp gauge is working correctly because my engine and radiator are heating up within about a mile or less of driving and I get this stall.  I pump the throttle and it starts to catch then looses power again.  it then cuts out completely and I have to wait till it cools down to start it.  hard start once its done this.  have to use starter fluid to get it to fire off good.  ive replaced the fuel pump and the thermostat.  my fuel filter looks brand new and so did my fuel pump.  think the guy who sold it to me had the same idea and replaced these.  I am going to get the radiater rodded Monday.  does anyone have any other ideas of what it might be?  other than this the truck rides good, except a little slow on inclines, but I think that is another issue I will be addressing when I have the money to start investing in the engine and transmission.  oh and it sat up for at least a year before I get it.
 

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get your thermostat fixed, an overheating engine will cause vapor lock among other more serious problems.
 

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I already replaced the thermostat.  no change.  seems like issues with radiator, doe anyone know of anything else that can cause this?
 

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lots of things can cause issues when they get hot, the coil, distributor cap, ignition module, ballast resistor, oil breakdown,
when I mentioned the thermostat, I was also thinking temperature sending unit, as those can go bad if heated too high too many times,

causes of over heating can be from
too lean, fuel starvation
ignition timing
improper coolant ratio
bad radiator
air bubbles (say from having changed the thermostat)
bad water pump
bad oil
bad fuel pump (leaking fuel into the crankcase)
bad cam, (wiped lobe and exhaust gasses)
bad heat riser valve
scale build up in the block
improper fuel
bad fan/clutch
no fan shroud
poor exhaust routing
bad oil filter (sludge build up)
cracked head/bad gasket somewhere

several of the issues may not arise until the engine becomes hot, then with expansion of materials and such, ignition components show failure, cracked heads/ bad gaskets may show failure etc, if you don't know how hot it is getting, or what the fuel/spark is doing when it gets hot, now is the time to break out the flashlight, temp gun, and ignition testing equipment
temp gun will tell you about the temp of the engine, exhaust gasses, and intake temp, abnormalities should be noted,
flashlight, look down the carb while it is running see if there are any abnormalities, maybe remove the top plate to inspect the bowl and float settings for debris or a sunk float
ignition testing equipment is fairly self explanatory, while the engine is hot or up to temperature, test the ballast resistor for proper voltage and resistance, same with the coil, then the wires to and from the coil, and distributor cap, remove the cap and inspect the internals, condition of the rotor, any loose or damaged parts, check the reluctor gap, and any play in the dizzy, check the plug wires and the plugs, fairly easy and straight forward testing and will answer many questions about the issues that you are having.
 

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okay, so I took it to the radiator shop.  they guy said that I had good a good flow in the radiator.  said that it had some junk in it, but not enough to clog it up.  he checked it out and said that my fan clutch is probably bad and that it may be vapor lock.  he suggested replacing the fan clutch and adding blue devil to my system and see if that resolves the problem.  okay... I am currently trying to replace the fan clutch and cannot get it off.  I took off the 4 1/2 bolts out of the pully wheel on the water pump.  it does not have the 12in nut.  just a cylindrical piece going from the water pump/pully to the fan/fan clutch.  I cant figure it out and nothing ive searched is helping.
 
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