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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, a run down... Went wheeling this weekend up to some mountains. The RC ran fine on teh road trip, but as I started getting to some hills, i was lossing power. Met up with my buddies and decided to tackle the trip, anyway. Well, the whole trip the RC lacked power, would stumble, etc. but it only seemed to do so going up hills or when under load. The timing would advance, and it would retard. Anyway, I had scanner hooked up (90 RC) and everything read normal, no computer codes. I'm changed teh fuel pressure regulator, and left the vacuume line off of it thinking that there wasn't enough fuel pressure. It seemed to run a little better (it had even been backfiring at some points). could my fuel pump be on it's way out? When I got back home, it seemed to be running fine again. (I drove back the 5 hours at 50-55 cause it would stumble after that)

Suggestions?

Thanks
james
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
damn, that's what I thought. Well, that's $200 bucks I wish i didn't have to spend. Thanks, guys!

james
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I thought maybe clogged filter, but i took it out and almost nothing came out of it. It's probably the fuel pump. On the plus side, they're not as expensive as I thought. Anyone know if they make an inline pump that i might be able to add for emergencies, or at least take and install should the pump ever go out? It would make a trail repair a whole lot simpler than dropping the gas tank! Thanks.

James
 

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You might want to check your timing chain as well. If your timing varies more than 2 degrees at idle with your vacuum advance disconnected, you may have more problems than just a fuel pump.
 

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There are fuel pumps for inline applications, see summit and barry grant and mallory, you can't run 1 pump through another pump you have to go around it and install a auto valve to shut off that line when not in use or a manual valve, it would just be better to mount it externally with 1 of the companies listed and then keep another on hand should 1 break all you would need would be a 3/8 or 7/16 wrecnh and possibly a 7/8 or 13/16 depending how you plumbed it
 

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Before your drop big bucks in a fuel pump, check the timing chain. Easiest way is to: remove dist. cap, put a socket on the crankshaft bolt and rotate the engine till the rotor starts to turn, then trun the socket the opposite way, the rotor should move at the same time as the crankshaft, if you move the crank more than about an inch before the rotor turns, timing chain is tits up!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the suggestion. I just had the engine rebuilt about a year and a half ago and put a double roller timing chain on it. The engine probably has less than 15K on it. Before the rebuilt, though, the oringinal timing chain had a TON of slack in it and it was slapping around the cover. One guy even asked me if I had a Diesel engine in my RC!!!
 

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Anybody have any thoughts on the possibilty of an o2 sensor? Was having similar, but, not exactly the same, symptoms w/ mine. Computer wouldn't throw any codes because it was an intermittent problem. The tech finally was able to figure it out when he got a new OTC scan tool and had it hooked up while driving down the road. When it finally started acting up, he got the code he needed pointing to the o2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I had thought about that, cause the O2 sensor would suddenly get erratic (I have an o2 meter hooked up, plus I had the scan tool hooked up), but it acted like it was more of a timing issue. The computer was retarding the timing, sometimes down to 2 o 3 degrees at 1,500 rpm. I was getting ready to kick the computer. But if the computer was advancing and retarding the timing, and there were no codes, then i figured it had to be something that the computer couldn't read, like the fuel preassure regulator, or maybe the fuel pump. If I had low fuel pressure or insufficient fuel flow, would the computer retard the timing to try and compensate? I think that the injectors were trying to stay open quite a while, like over 4ms. What do you think, probably the fuel pump, still? Would a pressure guage to check fuel pressure also check volume flow, or would it matter? would just checking the pressure be sufficient? thanks,

james
 

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yeah i still think the fuel pump like i said i would just put a elceapo in line electric fuel pump and see what happens with that if that doesnt help at all i would check all th timing adjustments and do a very distinctive inspection on your wiring to the fuel pump before putting a inline pump in
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update...changed out the fuel pump, and the truck runs GREAT! I think the pump must have been going out for quite a while because it really woke up with the new fuel pump. It even revs up up faster now. Thanks for the help!
 
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