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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I dont think the oil pressure gauge is working because i installed a new high performance oil pump by melling so what would i need to look at to check for pressure and make the gauge work
 

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Check the bell lookin thing to the left of the distributor.
(Assuming it’s an LA 360 and not a magnum, if it’s a magnum, a magnum guy will be here shortly to assist you with your magnum needs.  ;D)
Best thing to do is put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it before you do anything to ensure it’s got pressure in the first place.
 

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DatJosh said:
What kind of tester would i need and where could i get it?
You remove the wire off the top and ground it. If the oil pressure gauge needle goes to all the way to high, you know you have a bad sender. that's all there is to it. The sender frequently fails. Other possibility is that the wire is disconnected or broken.
 

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agreed , test by grounding wire that is at sender , gauge should peg , do that only long enough to check and then disconnect it . replace the sender , OR to test more , buy a "mechanical "oil pressure gauge "kit" , use the gauge as a tool held in hand , in place of the sender . save the gauge as a tool . OR buy a 0-100 psi gauge and plumb it where the sender was . but most AP stores have the kit , maybe not the "tool" . IF valve lifters are clattering , go directly to the manual gauge test , did you prime the oil pump before installing it ? ( pour oil into its inlet and turn it)
 

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well don't run it untill you KNOW if its the gauge OR it has no oil pressure , if the lifters are clattering ..... its probably NO oil pressure , but get a gauge "tool"    in the future allways prime a oil pump before installing it . pour oil into the pick up screen , turn pump , a flatblade screwdriver can be in the drive shaft hole used to turn the pump.

sometimes they will self prime , sometimes they don't . please to report what ya find ? thanks .

now if the lifters were clattering ... IF .. and you don't have oil pressure , and you don't want to do it right ( replace the replaced pump ) , I MIGHT try this , pull the coil wire so it does NOT run , put 10 more quarts of oil in it , crank it quite a bit ,(  like maybe pull the spark plugs so it spins over easy ?) watch your gauge tool for movement
( some pressure )  if ya get some , drain down to proper oil level , and start it ... see what happens , THIS is NOT the correct way. I know that guys ...... it's more of a hat rabbit .
 

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A dumb thing I did way back when: got sloppy with the gasket sealer between the pump and the main cap. The excess that squeezed out feel down in the pump and hardened. When I cranked it up, the pump rotor jammed and the drive shaft coming down from the dist gear snapped off. If you've got no pressure and knocking lifters, ya can pull that gear / shaft up from the top to check it.
 

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RWG75 said:
A dumb thing I did way back when: got sloppy with the gasket sealer between the pump and the main cap. The excess that squeezed out feel down in the pump and hardened. When I cranked it up, the pump rotor jammed and the drive shaft coming down from the dist gear snapped off. If you've got no pressure and knocking lifters, ya can pull that gear / shaft up from the top to check it.
A friend of mine was convinced by a friend of his since he didn't have a tranny pan gasket, use silicone. On his 08 Cummins.
I told him not to bother changing the fluid if it was slipping, because that's your clutch material floating around. Aka, clutches are already gone, don't waste time and money on new oil and filter in a dead horse.

It leaked, so they pulled the pan and Gobbed on a shit ton of silicone, got in valve body, didn't make it home either.
$3200 later, he bought the new transmission he tried to avoid, also another how many quarts of oil. But I digress..

My oil press gauge is now pegged all the time after my head swap, checked it with a mech gauge and I got oil pressure, so I'm not too worried.
Would love it if my damn gauge worked though. Already swapped the sending unit, and the little electric sending unit (ipresjme is for the idiot light) still pegs while running.
May just have to rig a mechanical gauge in that spot.
 

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the older trucks used a "bell" shaped pressure sender , and a small one if the truck did not "come" with a gauge , just a idjut lite .
 

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Rabbit929 said:
My oil press gauge is now pegged all the time after my head swap, checked it with a mech gauge and I got oil pressure, so I'm not too worried.
Would love it if my damn gauge worked though. Already swapped the sending unit, and the little electric sending unit (ipresjme is for the idiot light) still pegs while running.
May just have to rig a mechanical gauge in that spot.
Your factory oil gauge now pegs high? Is it the same sender you had before the head swap?
Pegging gauge usually means something is shorted to ground. I think it can damage the voltage limiter if left that way. Also (I may be wrong here too) using a sender meant for light will peg a gauge.

Bucky
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
so upon further inspection of the oil pressure sender stuff i have a line going from this weird looking pillar that looks to made of brass that goes into the cab that was all taped up and bent so it couldnt leak and on the pillar thing theres a bell looking thing that has a plug in but no wire near it looks it would match the plug in
 

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712edf said:
Your factory oil gauge now pegs high? Is it the same sender you had before the head swap?
Pegging gauge usually means something is shorted to ground. I think it can damage the voltage limiter if left that way. Also (I may be wrong here too) using a sender meant for light will peg a gauge.

Bucky
I replaced the sender, and the little electrical (two or three prong thing to the side) and still same problem.
So I've left it for the time being but I should check into it some more my next day off.
At idle it seems to hang out just before pegged, but once you touch gas she stays pegged.
 

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so who's post IS this ?    which question needs answer for which problem ? 

3 prong thing = a truck with NO gauge , just an idjut lite

bell shaped sender WITH threaded wire end is for truck with a gauge ( NAIL shape end IS a ford sender of same era )

if you have BOTH gauge and idjut lite , you need both , if you have it wired wrong ( gauge wire TO 3 prong sender) then gauge WILL peg ...........3 prongs , center one = idjut lite , outter ones =on/off for electric heater on choke.
 

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DatJosh said:
so upon further inspection of the oil pressure sender stuff i have a line going from this weird looking pillar that looks to made of brass that goes into the cab that was all taped up and bent so it couldnt leak and on the pillar thing theres a bell looking thing that has a plug in but no wire near it looks it would match the plug in
dodge used a bell shape sender , BUT it should have 10/32 threaded end (stud) over which went a wire loop end with a nut , OR a wire with molded "L" shape rubber wire end THAT wirew "should " be a 18 gauge white wire . it sounds like some one has installed a manual gauge , and that gauges tube has broken ... ? that is not factory does not hook to dodge dash gauge , but an add on one mounted somewhere owner chose .
 
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