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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How many miles can I expect to put on my new 360, (Break-in), before I can see an appreciable reduction in operating temp?? I know the pistons used were KB Hyperutectic coated skirts that the assembler said allows them to tighten the piston to cylinder wall up by a full .001.

I've got a new 3 core Modine rad, new heater core, 27k gvw 10 pass supplemental trans cooler run in series with the radiator as prescrived by the "FSM" and added 2 bottles of water wetter to a 50/50 solution of distilled water and Prestone. The trans has a 2200 rpm custom torrington full roller ATI convertor, and 2+ extra quart ACI alum. pan . Temp. monitoring is via 2 5/8" Autometer mechanical gauge, so I pretty confident temp. actuals are pretty accurate..

While towing my boat, (6,000 lbs), trans barely makes it over 205 deg. F. Temp gauge in dash is on the last full" hash mark before "H." If I shut the motor down during this condition, it cranks slow and won't restart unless I allow it to cool off about 10-15 mins. Normal?? It just turned 600 miles today. Running 10 W 40 Valvoline. Oil pressure is great, no other other problems to report. Just looking for suggestions or do I just wait till this thing has about 2-2500 miles on it and see what the temp is then? I've even though about asn oil cooler. I've got the relocation kit and could install it in about an hour. Thoughts??

Appreciate your feedback and suggestions.

Dave
 

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hehe im just breakin in my new 360 with the same pistons.... im runniing a stock rad broken fan shround... a s10" clutch....stock..and running straight water...no thermostst... and running about 195 constant even in traffic on these hot summer day and im only at 290 km.runing 10/30 oil... and on propane.
so.. my advise is too check your timing and water flow.. as for your trans temp.
they are desined too run hot. around 200 too 280 degreese.i work in a tranny shop here. trans coolers are a must with these 727.. bigger the better.
 

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sounds like its either to far over bored or core shift and you have a thin cylinder / check yer timing and make sure the motor is not running lean / with that new 3 core RAD it should run at 180
 

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He said ATI converter, you never said what the motor runs at, the coating on the pistons is to make it slippery and cooler not run a tighter piston to wall clearance
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ATI. Nationally known. Located here in Catonsville, MD. Quality 2nd to none. I've been using them for 25 years.
Dave

TheRamChargerMan said:
not to hijack the thread, but where did you get that coinvertor ?? i am looking for one in the 2200-2400 rpm stall range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The timing is set at 8-8.5 BTDC. The motor is bored .030. The compression is 9.6:1. I went back to the guy who sold me the "New" sending unit for my in dash factory gauge, and he's not even sure it's the right one. I shot the motor in various locations the other day, primarily the coolant passages with a laser / Pyrometer gun and the highest reading I got was 203 deg. F.

The gauge, when it says the truck is running the hottest is on the last full mark before Hot. The maqnual gauge for the trans, (while the truck temp gauge is moving towards hot), is only reading 195-200 deg. F. That's with a 22-2300 rpm convertor pulling a 6,000 pound boat and trailer. I'm leaning more towards the sending unit being the wrong one or a bad one.

I've got everything I need to install an oil cooler / filter relocation kit. How much difference should it make? The motor as of today only has 655 miles on it. I know they run hotter, (particularly towing), when they're breaking in.

Just watching the gauge's behavior makes you wonder if it's accurate. Shut the motor off for 10-15 minutes and it's back down to the half way point. Nothing cools off that fast.... How much does the sending unit depend on the intake to provide a ground for proper function?

How many miles should I put on this motor before I run synthetic in it? Thinking about the same for the trans. Both rears have it, and the transfer case will by fall when I rebuild it.

Dave ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Where, (In what area), would I begin my vacum leak search? I've been over the bolts in the intake, headers, etc. a couple of times since new and other than the 1/4 to 1/2 turn that you can put on all the screws and bolts that you would expect. If I'm missing something, I sure could use the silver bullet right now. Open to all suggestions / recommendations at this point. Otherwise, this is one "Bad Mother.."

Thanks,
Dave ;D

ramchargertodd said:
This first thing I would suspect is a vacuum leak leaning out your mixture. That WILL make it run hot under load.
 

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If you are not using a mechanical guage then i would go and get one, and you would be surprised how things cool sitting there, why are you using a converter so high to tow things
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Do you own a hi performance torque convertor? Technology has changed quite a bit. Like I said in one of my earlier posts, the trans temp, (worse case has not seen more than 205 deg. F.) On the street a "Looser convertor" can allow a heavier to get into its power band a little easier / quicker. Torque convertors today are or can be made to lock up tight at the prescribed stall speed.

If everybody on this board were idiots and didn't know what they were talking about or doing with their trucks, finding the obvious things wrong with everything they reported a problem with would be simple. (This board would be pretty boring too...)

The problem I've got is unrelated to the torque convertor itself. It was custom built to do just what I'm asking it to do. I really believe I've got a problem with the motor itself, whether it be a vacum leak, electrical, etc. I come here for advice and ideas on where to look for these problems.

Thanks for your suggestions / feedback.

RWTD

Evildriver-3 said:
If you are not using a mechanical guage then i would go and get one, and you would be surprised how things cool sitting there, why are you using a converter so high to tow things
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Might have solved my own problem....Found (3) vac leaks due to vac hoses that were a close fit / no fit when they were installed when the new motor was installed. Amazing how heat changes things !!! LMAO!! Anyhow, temp is back in the normal range, the motor doesn't turn over 1 full revolution before it's running when you start it, and the responsiveness feels like it's coming from a motor making 355 hp and 400 lb/ft of torque. Lesson 1.... Always stick to the simple things first when trouble shooting. Amazing what you might find. Thanks guys for the suggestions. Nice when they pay off in dividends.

Dave
 

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Do i own a Stall converters, several, i know all about the tech break throughs in trans and converters i use all the new tech alum drums torrington bearings, however i didn't ask if your converter is making your truck hot i asked why are you using a converter so high in stall to tow things, you haven't said you built a high rpm motor so im curious as to why you would waste rpm and put the motor past it's efficient rpm to tow
 

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test the thermostat.Just because its new dont mean it working.Check your firing order I had a 440 that would run 180 out of time.Check you total timing that will be with the vacuum hooked up.Did you you pull the freeze plug??I made that mistake once.It was full of trash.Chech the water pump.I had one on a 1949 dodge truck that the impeller was slipping on the shaft.Check the carb to intake Did you put the fiber gasket (the thick one on).Is the carb one flat by that I mean that there is nothing thats keeping it up on one corner.I had a after market carb and intake and it they would not match up.The bottom of the carb hit the intake just so it never bolted up.Ok now not to call the assembler a lier but you dont tighten up the piston to cylinder.The piston with the Hyperutect skirts will be most part .001 over sized.We (vw bug bulders use this coating) will run the cylinder at stock or just .001 over.Sound to me that your to tight.If you look at the oil you just might find that Hyperutectic coating in the oil pan.Thats just some of the things that I have come across in 25 years of working and building on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
22-2300 rpm helps get a nearly 6,000 lb truck moving and into the motor's designed power band a lot quicker than the factory 17-1800 rpm towing style convertor designed for low hp / rpm use. My only point was that now you can have the best of both worlds if you work at it. Funny thing....The trans working the hardest, (pulling a 6 percent grade), towing 6,000 lbs; boat and trailer never makes it over 2010 degrees. Of course I've got the 27k gvw 10 pass cooler properly run in series with the radiator, which helps I'm sure, but it's amazing how far torque convertors technology has come.

I think I traced my apparent overheat to a number of things. Found (3) significant vac leaks, and I'm not 100% sure the sending unit the parts guy sent me is calibrated for my in dash gauge. Like I said, the motor as of today only has a little over 600 miles on it. I hated to tow with it so soon, but I put 250 miles on it, dropped the oil and it was time for the boat to go to the water.....

Gonna order the Pro Comp 2 5/8' water temp gauge and mounting cup so I can mount it right on the dash with my Monster tach. It'll be a nice addition to the mechanical oil and trans temp gauge set I already have mounted where the ash tray used to be.

Question....What's the general rule of "break in" with petroleum based oils before you change over to synthetic?

Dave

Evildriver-3 said:
Do i own a Stall converters, several, i know all about the tech break throughs in trans and converters i use all the new tech alum drums torrington bearings, however i didn't ask if your converter is making your truck hot i asked why are you using a converter so high in stall to tow things, you haven't said you built a high rpm motor so im curious as to why you would waste rpm and put the motor past it's efficient rpm to tow
 

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Evildriver-3 said:
torrington bearings,
Good choice!!! lol!!!!

<<<-------------- ;D
 

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Runin' With The Devil said:
Question....What's the general rule of "break in" with petroleum based oils before you change over to synthetic?

Dave
Right after break in, after you did your oil changes to remove any building and break in lubes
 
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