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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry to have the subject so vauge, but I'm looking for a few little parts to get my RC in the mud; Not too worried about on the road, I bought it to get it dirty.
But I need the metal rod for the choke pull off.
Bolts for front driveshaft to T-case flange ( or are they something standard that Lowes or Depot would have)
and a set of U-Joint straps & bolts for the front shaft.
It needs some TLC in other areas as well, but those will get it ready to play.
TIA
Aaron
 

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I believe the 4 bolts that mount the shaft to the Xfer case are (7/16-14 x 1-1/4") and use lockwashers. Use a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt. The ujoint straps and bolts you can get at any good auto parts store. For the rod, you may have to go to a carb shop locally or try on the web for one. Maybe someone on the board has one? This is a TQ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Chump said:
I believe the 4 bolts that mount the shaft to the Xfer case are (7/16-14 x 1-1/4") and use lockwashers. Use a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt. The ujoint straps and bolts you can get at any good auto parts store. For the rod, you may have to go to a carb shop locally or try on the web for one. Maybe someone on the board has one? This is a TQ?
Yes, It's a Thermoquad; had my brother in law rebuild it last summer because I though he'd be able to do better them I would.. and that was a mistake. He got it better than it was, but NOT done very well at all.. The jack @$$ didn't even set the floats, just clean and reassemble.
The driveshaft hardware simply didn't come with my RC when I bought it.
Thanks for the bolt specs.. I didn't know if they were something special or a standard part I could get from a hardware store.
 

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awyseguy, im just curiuse(i cant spell) did you just buy the truck latley? and was the drive shaft out?the only reason im asking is i was looking at your list of vehicles, the rc if its the one you list are talking about has 33 on front 35 on back, thats not a good thing on a 4wd bad things can happen to trans cases if its not oh well if it is maybe saved you some trouble later
mike
 

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Nah the diferent tire sizes actually won't make too much ofa idfferencedepending on how tall the 2 actually usually it's no morethan 1.5 inches indfference usually unless he has some Swampers on the rear or something .
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It is teh same RC, it came mismatched, I plan to later put 35's on the front as well. That's not much of a concern right now, because for street I plan to keep the hubs unlocked and run 2wd; I just want it together for a couple of hole that have been calling me. One is around 30-32" deep of soupy mud; I want to get into it just to dig the bottom out to make it deeper for the next unsuspecting person to discover. I would try it w/o the front shaft, but if I get it digging good enough; then I've stuck myself. Not my idea of a good time.
 

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Always take another vehicle with you whenever posible. It sure makes life easier if you do get stuck.
 

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Well, that 1.5" of height diff, comes out to 5" of diff in distance traveled with one tire revolution.

That means if you have 3.23 gears, the front tires have to spin 611.5 rpm and the rear tires have to spin 576.5 rpm to go one mile. That means that per mile, you have a 6% difference in tire speed at a given rpm, and that WILL break a tcased in no time.

it also means you will be either pushing the front tires thru the mud (not good) or dragging the rear ones (again not good).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The front & rears turning different speeds in the mud, while not being "good" is still far better than having only 2 turning at all. I've seen many trucks & buggies set up for mud drags that intentionly are running different front & rear sizes. This is not how I'm intending to keep it, I just can't continue to drive past this mud almost every day without getting into it. I don't think going through 40-50 ft of mud is going to be very detrimental to anything.
I've lost one truck to wheeling alone, and we've since equipted my friends '98 TJ with a winch for pulling the RC or Dakota out of trouble. I usually wheel with him, but we've been running his Jeep though this pit & he's the one I'm wanting to make it more challenging for. I just want to have +6000# on 35's take the bottom out of the hole.. and relocate it a few (maybe 6-8) inches lower.
also, I do have 3.23's; but the gears are irrelavant as to the circumference of the tires.
 

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true, they arer irrevalent. And yes, some mud racers do run diff gears, because they want to gain some steering or are using diff tire sizes.

All I am saying, is the diff tire sizes CAN break things, and when people do it intentionally, they run diff gears AND tire sizes.

No, you shouldn't break it in mud, but what if you hit something with good traction, or forget to take it out of 4wd, or need 4wd on somethign that gives good traction ??...these things do happen
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My objective is basically just to get it going to do a few blast through a specific section of mud, that is roughly 3 miles from my house.. I plan to get another pair of 35's for the front & do a RCC shackle flip on it as well before it starts seeing much actual trail useage. That and I'm still working on laying out a front bumper for it.
 
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