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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What should i do if part of the fuse box is melted?
There are electric bucket seats pushed all the way up, how do i move them back?
How do i fix the gauges?
why does my truck squeak when i turn the wheels?
How do i get the tail gate to latch?
The previous owner put a rather small steering wheel, how do i take that off and put the other one on?
Is there a way i could get a different canopy? The previous owner drilled holes in it.
What kind of axles do i have?
How can i tell if my engine is a 318 or a 360? engine tag is blank, vin says 360, previous owner says 318.
 

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77Ramcharger_Se_001 said:
What should i do if part of the fuse box is melted?
There are electric bucket seats pushed all the way up, how do i move them back?
How do i fix the gauges?
why does my truck squeak when i turn the wheels?
How do i get the tail gate to latch?
The previous owner put a rather small steering wheel, how do i take that off and put the other one on?
Is there a way i could get a different canopy? The previous owner drilled holes in it.
What kind of axles do i have?
How can i tell if my engine is a 318 or a 360? engine tag is blank, vin says 360, previous owner says 318.
Heater Fuse melted halfway down into the Fusebox? Yeah that's pretty common, there's a write-up/How To on fixing that here on the site i beleive

Power Bucket Seats? If they still work just connect em to a 12V source to move them, if that's not available you can use a Battery Charger or a "Jump Box" to supply the power

What gauges aren't working? Fuel/Temp/Oil Pressure? Probably the Voltage Regulator on the Back of the Instrument Cluster

Tail Gate won't latch? chances are it's frozen/rusty, spray it with some PB Blaster / Deep Creep

Removing the Steering Wheel, Pop the Horn Button off (don't know how yours is fastened on) it could be just clipped on, or held on with screws from the backside of the steering wheel. After that's off there's a Large Nut in the center, remove that, and use a Steering Wheel Puller to pop the old wheel off.. Slide the new Steering Wheel on, Put Nut on, Tighten Nut, Install Horn Button.

Replacement/Used Top/Roof? Post up a Wanted Ad in the Classifieds Section, it may take a while though, the old Pop-Top's are becoming less common in decent condition

Axles would be a Dana 44 Front and for a '77 it could be several different Rear Axles : 8-1/4", 8-3/4" or 9-1/4" Gear Ratio would probably be 3.23 or 3.55 (3.55's seemed to be more common in the older Ramchargers)

You can ID the Engine by the Casting Number. It's slightly behind and above the Starter on the side of the Engine Block.
 

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77Ramcharger_Se_001 said:
What should i do if part of the fuse box is melted? - REPLACE IT! Junkyard or an aftermarket kit from somebody like Painless wiring. A Factory Service Manual (FSM) can be really helpful here for tracing wires. Also, take a look at the ammeter bypass in the FAQ section.
There are electric bucket seats pushed all the way up, how do i move them back? Gonna have to get some power to them to see if the motors work.
How do i fix the gauges? See previous recommendation about an FSM and your fusebox.
why does my truck squeak when i turn the wheels? Where is the squeak coming from? Does it sound like belt squeal? Might be low on fluid.
How do i get the tail gate to latch? Hmm, need some pics of the problem here. Should be a fairly straightforward deal.
The previous owner put a rather small steering wheel, how do i take that off and put the other one on? Go to your local parts store and either 'rent' a steering wheel puller or buy one.
Is there a way i could get a different canopy? The previous owner drilled holes in it. No aftermarket hardtops available that I know of. Soft tops can be found. Although depending on the size of the holes, might be able to fill them in with weld, grind smooth and slap some paint on.
What kind of axles do i have? If they're still the stock ones, likely a Dana 44 up front and a Chrysler 9-1/4 out back
How can i tell if my engine is a 318 or a 360? engine tag is blank, vin says 360, previous owner says 318. Should be cast in the block on the drivers side under the head.
 

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To add to what cjohnny has said, buy a haynes manual. These manuals are crap when it comes to real diagnostics, but do decently alright for basic stuff like your steering wheel. They also have a handy section describing the tools you should eventually OWN (garage sale, ebay, your friend/neighbor, ect ect)

When a fuse, wiring connector, wire, fusible link, or fuse box melts, you need to identify the individual circuit that melted or appears most damaged. I am TOTALLY making this example up, so bear with me. You find out your heater doesn't work. It has a popped fuse (or fusible link) so you replace it. It doesn't work, the fuse popped again. So you bypass it with a big ol over rated fuse. Turn heater on, you smell smoke, your dash catches fire. Upon further inspection, you find a stick caught in the blower motor, or a wire pinched in the sheet metal. Had you inspected in the 1st place you would avoid the hassle.

that goes for any time something like that happens. Just replacing your fuse block is not enough. You got to find out "why?" Unlike brake pads/tires, fue blocks are not supposed to be "normally wearing parts that get replaced every ___miles or years.

Please read the FAQ section. FAQ is frequently asked questions. Trust me, some of your questions are in fact frequently asked. Also read the "how to section" off to your left.
 
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