[CAMO RAM]

Well I was setting in the driveway with the RC running and the rasdo on. all of a sudden the RC dies. I crank it over and it fires but as soon as i let go of the key it dies. do it again same thing. do it a 3rd time and all it does is crank over wont fire. I have changed out the ing control module, balast resistor ,coil and the whole roter. it still wont fire. I dont have any spark. I jumped from the battery over to the the + side of the coil and it still wont fire. I am out of options here people. This is my daily driver. any thoughts would be greatfull. Thanks

Nathan.

 

[oldmanram]

Well the server seems to be at it again !
Edit: I would remove this, But I'm worried I will trash this thread.

 

[ProjectM880]

ok im not sure if dodges have the same thing but my uncles ranch truck did the same thing it is 76 ford. Any ways it was the ignition switch. It had a fusible link in it. and every time it heated up it would split. then it would cool off and go back together it did this until it just stop working completly. All i need to do it replace the ignition switch. It sound like the same problem as yours. Not sure if this help you or not but it can't hurt to check.

 

[oldmanram]

Yeah - I was going to suggest the same as m880, but it sounds like you tried to jump around the switch anyway.
Here's a dumb one - is the little carbon button in dist. cap there and in good shape, I had that button fall out before.

 

[BrianT]

Or adead coil maybe but it seems like the switch be it !!!!!!!!!

 

[oldmanram]

Did you check the 'pick up' coil in the dist., and the wiring that goes with it. It does still sound like the ign. switch though....

 

[AZ-Trailduster]

hey man, if you need a new ignition switch, i got mine from the dealer for about $25.
Part Number: 3747192

33.00 list, 22.50 wholesale....for some reason my gut tells me it might be discontined now (bought it a few years back)...so if you cant locate one i'll give you mine for what i spent for it. (still new in box)

 

[TaZMaNiaK]

It is a classic symptom of a popped fuse link, but it's not in the ignition switch. Over the driver's side fenderwell in the main wiring harness, is a triangular wedge with 4 or 5 wires coming out. Those are your fuse links. You popped one of the 20Ga Orange links, which directly feeds the Ignition 1 circuit. If one isn't visibly burned or you can't make out the colors through the grime, just give each one a tug. The burned one will stretch like a rubber band. To replace, cut the burned link out of the wedge, and off the wire on the other side, then strip a little insulation from the 10ga main lead right behind the wedge, and solder the new link in and tape it up, and solder and shrink it to the wire on the other side. That's it! Because this is a critical semi-high-load circuit that is exposed to the nasty conditions under the hood, you shouldn't even consider using crimps or Scotch-Loks. Shrink tube or self-fusing silicone tape should cover your soldered connections.

Matt {peace}

 

[Bogie]

It is a classic symptom of a popped fuse link, but it's not in the ignition switch. Over the driver's side fenderwell in the main wiring harness, is a triangular wedge with 4 or 5 wires coming out. Those are your fuse links. You popped one of the 20Ga Orange links, which directly feeds the Ignition 1 circuit. If one isn't visibly burned or you can't make out the colors through the grime, just give each one a tug. The burned one will stretch like a rubber band. To replace, cut the burned link out of the wedge, and off the wire on the other side, then strip a little insulation from the 10ga main lead right behind the wedge, and solder the new link in and tape it up, and solder and shrink it to the wire on the other side. That's it! Because this is a critical semi-high-load circuit that is exposed to the nasty conditions under the hood, you shouldn't even consider using crimps or Scotch-Loks. Shrink tube or self-fusing silicone tape should cover your soldered connections.

Matt {peace}

Yep I have to agree with the above

 

[jto]

I've had my wires fry down towards the bottom of my steering column. The problem spot was the connector coming out of the firewall linking into the IG switch.
If I remember correctly, my IG switch went out soon after I had fixed the wires. It's a inexpensive and easy fix. I have changed mine twice now since the aftermarket replacements have weak springs.
It could be possible the contacts within the IG switch are worn out in the run position.

IM me if ya need some details.

 

[Chump]

If this is the 79 then check the pickup asm in the distributor. With a meter it should read 150 to 900 ohms.

 

[77ramcharger]

I had the same problem as jto in my 77. Melted the wire coming from the switch to the ballast resistor.