[tv_larsen]

To build my RC's roll cage, I used the factory roll bar as a starting point and just added on. I built this cage in preparation for the 2003 Easter Jeep Safari. Rolling is always possible, and I didn't trust the factory roll bar by it's self.

Also, I needed better seats than the factory, wore out, junk. I bought some drag racing seats from Summit Racing. These work best mounted to a roll cage.

The cage isn't totally finished at this point, but it is better than nothing. Still to do is: buy some 4-point racing harnesses and weld mounts to the cage, weld in a triangulation bar in the factory roll bar to stiffen it, and secure the cage to the frame. It's just bolted to the body right now.

But here it is.

 

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The only problem right now is I can't open the glove box more than half way. I plan to simply cut-off the end where it hits the cage.

 

[tv_larsen]

The front down bars are 2" 11 Gauge, like the factory roll bar. For the rest, I used 1.25" Sch 40 pipe (1.66" OD).

 

[phoenix827]

looks good! Even with it not tied into the fram you still cot protection all the way around you. If you roll hard enough to rip the body off the frame I don't think you will care about the truck anyways! lol Seats look good too!

 

[BigBad360]

So how much did all this cost you? I have been wanting to work on a rollcage for months. I am new to welding, so I would probably either get one of my buddies to do it for beer (beer comes afterwards) or bring it to a pro. I pulled all the seats over the summer to bedline the interior so I am guessing that now is the best time to work on the rollcage and seats. Oh, one last question. Did you allready have the rollbar or did you have to find one? I have been considering buying one from the factory, but I am guessing they are expesive.

Isaac

 

[tv_larsen]

Jimmy, I don't have the soft seat covers yet, but the seats are resonably comfortable. Where they really shine is offroad, they hold you in the seat much better than any factory seat could. I would recommend that you empty your pockets before spending anytime in the seats however.

These are the seats I bought, there is an extra $10/seat charge for shipping, plus Summit's regular handling charge, they ended up being just over $50/seat. Summit Seat

Isaac, my favorite 4x4 shop quoted me $400 to bend up and install the front down bars and the crossmember at the top of the windshield.

Instead I traded some work to a buddy with a bender to bend them for me. I drew up some prints of what I thought would work. He bent up a 16 Ga test piece for me first, I fit it, and modified it to fit. We measured it, then bent the real 11 Ga pieces. I then bought about $40 worth of pipe to finish all of the straight pieces. I did all of the cutting, grinding, fitting and welding myself. It's a lot of work.

 

[GunPilot]

Looks good, TV. I could have lent you the plans for my high-zoot, special, one-off seat-mount brackets but it looks like you've solved the problem.

I was wanting to add to the Ramus' rollbar by adding a second RC rollbar turned around backwards in the back, with horizontal top bars joining the two. Then, another set of points in the front.

 

[Trailduster79]

When you cut your glove box let me see what it looks like. I am putting a full cage in my 79 this summer and I had figured that I was going to have to cut my glove box as well. I like how you got it bent around the driver's side of the dash, I thought I was going to have to cut part of my dash, but now I think I will do it like you have yours.

 

[Guest]

Cool looking there TV!

 

[Dodgeman]

hey TV,, that looks good,, but for the rock running,, im thinking ya may wanna go ahead and weld or bolt it to the frame,,do you drive this truck on the street or just go offroading in it?? maybe its almost time to cage around the engine as well,, and chop a few inches off the back of the truck,,and trim out the fenderwells,, and as for the glove box,, how often do you get into the glove box anyway,, im guessing some one could use that lid,, to replace a sun-cracked one,, maybe its time to tear out the dash and put in a cross bar,, with a few gauges attached to it,,and do you have some safety chains to hold the engine in in case of a good roll?? aww now im just rambling,,, but i do know how much work(fun) it is to build a roll bar,, im thinking of cage 2 now but im kinda short of money after the first one there is a few things i would do different

 

[tv_larsen]

hey TV,, that looks good,, but for the rock running,, im thinking ya may wanna go ahead and weld or bolt it to the frame,,do you drive this truck on the street or just go offroading in it?? maybe its almost time to cage around the engine as well,, and chop a few inches off the back of the truck,,and trim out the fenderwells,, and as for the glove box,, how often do you get into the glove box anyway,, im guessing some one could use that lid,, to replace a sun-cracked one,, maybe its time to tear out the dash and put in a cross bar,, with a few gauges attached to it,,and do you have some safety chains to hold the engine in in case of a good roll?? aww now im just rambling,,, but i do know how much work(fun) it is to build a roll bar,, im thinking of cage 2 now but im kinda short of money after the first one there is a few things i would do different

Like I said in the first post, I still need to attach the cage to the frame, but that is on my to-do list.

This thing is driven on the streets occasionally, but mostly just offroad.

Caging the engine and chaining it down are both good suggestions, neither I had considered before. I'd love to bob the rear, but I'd have to get a fuel cell to replace the current tank. That would have to be a distant future upgrade. It's not only the cost, but I love having the 35 gallon tank. Also, I'm getting very good at dragging the rear bumper. The fender wells are trimmed, in fact I've completly removed the front inner fenders. And more fender trimming is planned.

I've already cut the glovebox door. I do get in there fairly often. It's not only were the fuse box is located, but thats where I store the spare ECU, coil, pick-up coil, and ballast resitor.

I'd tear out the dash, but I can't afford a full compliment of gauges yet. I kind like having the factory dash in there too. It helps the truck maintain it's identity as Dodge, since I've removed so much already.

 

[swamthang]

you need to put a down tube on the dash that will bend in a good roll i have done it it not good nice set up tho