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My RC's roll cage
To build my RC's roll cage, I used the factory roll bar as a starting point and just added on. I built this cage in preparation for the 2003 Easter Jeep Safari. Rolling is always possible, and I didn't trust the factory roll bar by it's self.
Also, I needed better seats than the factory, wore out, junk. I bought some drag racing seats from Summit Racing. These work best mounted to a roll cage.
The cage isn't totally finished at this point, but it is better than nothing. Still to do is: buy some 4-point racing harnesses and weld mounts to the cage, weld in a triangulation bar in the factory roll bar to stiffen it, and secure the cage to the frame. It's just bolted to the body right now.
But here it is.
Also, I needed better seats than the factory, wore out, junk. I bought some drag racing seats from Summit Racing. These work best mounted to a roll cage.
The cage isn't totally finished at this point, but it is better than nothing. Still to do is: buy some 4-point racing harnesses and weld mounts to the cage, weld in a triangulation bar in the factory roll bar to stiffen it, and secure the cage to the frame. It's just bolted to the body right now.
But here it is.
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Jimmy, I don't have the soft seat covers yet, but the seats are resonably comfortable. Where they really shine is offroad, they hold you in the seat much better than any factory seat could. I would recommend that you empty your pockets before spending anytime in the seats however. 
These are the seats I bought, there is an extra $10/seat charge for shipping, plus Summit's regular handling charge, they ended up being just over $50/seat. Summit Seat
Isaac, my favorite 4x4 shop quoted me $400 to bend up and install the front down bars and the crossmember at the top of the windshield.
Instead I traded some work to a buddy with a bender to bend them for me. I drew up some prints of what I thought would work. He bent up a 16 Ga test piece for me first, I fit it, and modified it to fit. We measured it, then bent the real 11 Ga pieces. I then bought about $40 worth of pipe to finish all of the straight pieces. I did all of the cutting, grinding, fitting and welding myself. It's a lot of work.
These are the seats I bought, there is an extra $10/seat charge for shipping, plus Summit's regular handling charge, they ended up being just over $50/seat. Summit Seat
Isaac, my favorite 4x4 shop quoted me $400 to bend up and install the front down bars and the crossmember at the top of the windshield.
Instead I traded some work to a buddy with a bender to bend them for me. I drew up some prints of what I thought would work. He bent up a 16 Ga test piece for me first, I fit it, and modified it to fit. We measured it, then bent the real 11 Ga pieces. I then bought about $40 worth of pipe to finish all of the straight pieces. I did all of the cutting, grinding, fitting and welding myself. It's a lot of work.
hey TV,, that looks good,, but for the rock running,, im thinking ya may wanna go ahead and weld or bolt it to the frame,,do you drive this truck on the street or just go offroading in it?? maybe its almost time to cage around the engine as well,, and chop a few inches off the back of the truck,,and trim out the fenderwells,, and as for the glove box,, how often do you get into the glove box anyway,, im guessing some one could use that lid,, to replace a sun-cracked one,, maybe its time to tear out the dash and put in a cross bar,, with a few gauges attached to it,,and do you have some safety chains to hold the engine in in case of a good roll?? aww now im just rambling,,, but i do know how much work(fun) it is to build a roll bar,, im thinking of cage 2 now but im kinda short of money 
after the first one there is a few things i would do different 
after the first one there is a few things i would do different
Like I said in the first post, I still need to attach the cage to the frame, but that is on my to-do list.dodgeman said:hey TV,, that looks good,, but for the rock running,, im thinking ya may wanna go ahead and weld or bolt it to the frame,,do you drive this truck on the street or just go offroading in it?? maybe its almost time to cage around the engine as well,, and chop a few inches off the back of the truck,,and trim out the fenderwells,, and as for the glove box,, how often do you get into the glove box anyway,, im guessing some one could use that lid,, to replace a sun-cracked one,, maybe its time to tear out the dash and put in a cross bar,, with a few gauges attached to it,,and do you have some safety chains to hold the engine in in case of a good roll?? aww now im just rambling,,, but i do know how much work(fun) it is to build a roll bar,, im thinking of cage 2 now but im kinda short of money
This thing is driven on the streets occasionally, but mostly just offroad.
Caging the engine and chaining it down are both good suggestions, neither I had considered before. I'd love to bob the rear, but I'd have to get a fuel cell to replace the current tank. That would have to be a distant future upgrade. It's not only the cost, but I love having the 35 gallon tank. Also, I'm getting very good at dragging the rear bumper.
The fender wells are trimmed, in fact I've completly removed the front inner fenders. And more fender trimming is planned.I've already cut the glovebox door. I do get in there fairly often. It's not only were the fuse box is located, but thats where I store the spare ECU, coil, pick-up coil, and ballast resitor.
I'd tear out the dash, but I can't afford a full compliment of gauges yet. I kind like having the factory dash in there too. It helps the truck maintain it's identity as Dodge, since I've removed so much already.
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