Dodge RamCharger Central banner
281 - 300 of 304 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #281 ·
That one is hard to remember. Kinda like what I was at 27.



No doubt and no seats either. Also no mobile device.




I remember being in the World Trade Center as well as working briefly in one of the buildings it fell on. A guy in my dept was standing across the river from it. Reasons and ramifications are many. Hell, barely OEM carbs by the time you were born.




One of the reasons Kurt appreciates this thing.




3/4 ton out pulling a 1/2 ton is about right. 40 year old Dodge out pulling a newish one, no surprise. Did ya notice how it almost felt happier hauling something heavy?
In regards to towing with it, its a completely different experience when compared to my new half ton.

Unless we had the load a little too far forward on the trailer, you didnt really feel it back there until you got to a hill, and then it just took a few extra RPM to keep it moving. Tows extremely smoothly and way more stable. Keep in mind, this is also my first experience towing with a 3/4 ton truck. Always owned half tons up to this truck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #282 ·
I understand the desire entirely and hence why I have [not to me] old iron.

Ya can't remove a brain that isn't there. The most simplest explanation of what the 70s Chrysler electronic ignition is a two stage class A power amplifier, more or less identical to a loud mono tape player. Yes, parts fry because electronics. No, don't wear over miles like points. ECUs stamped Chrysler will out live vehicle.

Theory:
1. magnet mounted to distributor, turns with it, pick up coil mounted to body. That's a moving magnet pickup in a record player.
2. ECU uses bias voltage stepped down by ballast resistor to amplify signal from distributor. That's a pre-amp.
3. Coil is a voltage step up transformer, high enough to form a spark. PA systems use current amps.
4. Ya don't get a distributor cap equivalent in audio unless yer powering multiple speakers.

Points replace 1,2. it's kinda uninventing the wheel or in this case, the radio.
I got ya. My other concern was the quality of points these days. All of our old tractors and stuff use points and we have buckets full of NOS points for them. Newer production points we have tried are garbage. Anybody got a good source for quality points?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
59,743 Posts
Thanks for the input superburban. I knew the new “old style” VRs were fake if you want to call them that.

Whats the best place to find a points style distributor for an rb block? Keep in mind, junkyards with these vehicles are almost non existent in my area.
I got ya. My other concern was the quality of points these days. All of our old tractors and stuff use points and we have buckets full of NOS points for them. Newer production points we have tried are garbage. Anybody got a good source for quality points?
Not sure on either. I have most if not all of a small block points dizzy. If I have big block, it would be for a B block. I have spent the last 30 years or so getting away from points. I still have a handful of GM points new in box, but doubt I have any mopar. Most of my small engines I have been converting to use a HEI module, because they are cheap and fairly reliable. I'm getting ready to convert an old international driven air compressor to HEI for a costumer.

Whats that site on 60's Dodges? powerwagon something. Look them up, they might have something on the old dizzys. ( I just looked, Rockauto does have rebuilt points dizzys.) If they are done good, they should provide good service. Not much to rebuilding them, it is in the tuning that matters, and that is more an engine specific deal.

Maybe ask Dodgeboys, he has lots of good stuff, maybe he has one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #284 ·
Not sure on either. I have most if not all of a small block points dizzy. If I have big block, it would be for a B block. I have spent the last 30 years or so getting away from points. I still have a handful of GM points new in box, but doubt I have any mopar. Most of my small engines I have been converting to use a HEI module, because they are cheap and fairly reliable. I'm getting ready to convert an old international driven air compressor to HEI for a costumer.

Whats that site on 60's Dodges? powerwagon something. Look them up, they might have something on the old dizzys. ( I just looked, Rockauto does have rebuilt points dizzys.) If they are done good, they should provide good service. Not much to rebuilding them, it is in the tuning that matters, and that is more an engine specific deal.

Maybe ask Dodgeboys, he has lots of good stuff, maybe he has one.
Thanks for the info. That and the a/c project are on a funding hold for now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #285 · (Edited)
Anybody have a dual tank truck with the main tank in the frame and the auxiliary tank in the cab? I am trying to figure out the hoses around the tank switch valve under the passenger side of the cab. I have three hoses coming through the floor of the cab. One appears to be a vent, the other going to the solenoid valve is obviously the feed line but I have a third that appears to go back to the other tank in the frame rails. Is this right? There are two steel lines going back toward the rear of the truck. My setup does not appear to match what is shown in the FSM.

I am looking to replace all these rubber hoses because they are in rough shape and add an electric pump I have laying around in line to use as a sort of primer pump just wired to a toggle switch. I have found that my carb goes dry after a few days and it takes a lot of cranking to get fuel back to the bowls. With this I can turn the pump on for a few seconds to fill the bowls and shut it back off for easier start ups hopefully. Let me know if this wont work the way I am thinking.


 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
59,743 Posts
I'll look and see what I have. You are correct, one is the vent. I cannot think what the third would do.

All mine run an electric fuel pump in addition to the mechanical. You either need to keep the electric running all the time, or have a bypass circuit for the fuel to go around. Hard to tell in this pic, but it has a bypass, and a one way valve in the bypass to keep the gas from going in a loop. With the heat here, and the months between uses on some of my trucks, they use the priming pump often. I mount them to the frame directly, when you turn them on they will clatter a bit until the fuel line pressurizes, then you know it is time to start the engine. I have also considered a switch to show when the fuel is up to about 3 or 4 PSI, but been too lazy to do the fab work.

619102


Here is one pic I have in the showcase, that shows the dual tanks, but not the fuel lines very well. I will keep looking. IIRC, there were from a 74.

 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
59,743 Posts
Can't find my 77 manual, it must be down at the shop, I will look for it tomorrow. Here is some better pics from the 74/75 manual.

619103




619104


619105


None show the third line, it is likely for the evaporative emissions system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #288 ·
The pic in the first post is a different pic than my 77-78 FSM but the last few pics are exactly the same as whats in my FSM. None show the third hose. I guess Ill have to do some line tracing.

On the bypass, are you saying to put a bypass around the electric pump? Or the mechanical?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,326 Posts
He means around the electric pump - a path for the fuel travel after you shut off the priming pump. I think if I did it, I'd put in a pair of T's between the selector and the mechanical pump. The one I park outside will empty the bowl if I let sit for a month. In that scenario I'll just crank it for 5 seconds [to run the mechanical pump], repeat 3 or 4 times, pump the pedal one time and fire it up. The inconvenience isn't worth adding adding electrics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #290 ·
Thats what I figured he meant, just making sure I was following along. Im still running this edelbrock and I bet within three or four days, its bone dry. My plan was what you said you would do, pump after the switch.

I did recently switch thermostats to a 180. It had a 192 in it and with that one, the truck ran in the range of usually no lower than 195 to just above 200 degrees normal driving. It was so hot you couldnt put your hand on the hood when it was running or had been running. I believe that was part of my problem with hot restarts. It would vaporlock so bad you couldnt hardly get it to start. So I switched the thermostat and threw in one of those thick carburetor insulator gaskets and both seem to have really helped that problem.

Now just trying to cut down on cranking time when its sat for a week or so which it does fairly often as it is not my daily driver.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
59,743 Posts
Yes, bypass the electric pump. Or just let it run all the time with the engine. They say the solenoid style pumps can work to prime a manual, and then be able to shut it down and have the manual take over, I have never tried it.


I have one truck that is just the electric pump, and I do the same as RWG75, turn off the pump, and let the bowls run dry. I have been wanting to open the carb to see if it is a good idea or not (one of these days I will get there), My concern is you are always leaving a tiny bit of gas that will turn to crud faster then a full bowl.

Here you can see a bypass setup better. The right side of the pump is also Teed back into the main line. The red arrow points to the one way valve (often called a check valve). If you get one, get the ones that have steel ball, or valve, not the cheap rubber ones.

619116


On my 77 clubcab, I have thought of running a separate pump for each tank, and turn them on for which ever tank I want to draw from.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
901 Posts
I'd dump $8K for that in a New York second and drive it for a Texas hour. Damn that's nice.
 
  • Like
Reactions: W200’78

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #293 ·
I'd dump $8K for that in a New York second and drive it for a Texas hour. Damn that's nice.
Thanks. Its a real head turner and I drive it as much as I can but I also have a toddler to haul around so I daily a 2014 Ram. Easier to fit the kid into and the crumbs dont get in this one!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #294 ·
Yes, bypass the electric pump. Or just let it run all the time with the engine. They say the solenoid style pumps can work to prime a manual, and then be able to shut it down and have the manual take over, I have never tried it.


I have one truck that is just the electric pump, and I do the same as RWG75, turn off the pump, and let the bowls run dry. I have been wanting to open the carb to see if it is a good idea or not (one of these days I will get there), My concern is you are always leaving a tiny bit of gas that will turn to crud faster then a full bowl.

Here you can see a bypass setup better. The right side of the pump is also Teed back into the main line. The red arrow points to the one way valve (often called a check valve). If you get one, get the ones that have steel ball, or valve, not the cheap rubber ones.

View attachment 619116

On my 77 clubcab, I have thought of running a separate pump for each tank, and turn them on for which ever tank I want to draw from.
I like the idea of adding that check valve. System probably wouldnt work right without it. Hadnt thought about that.

Dang, another run to Napa.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #295 ·
So I got everything wired and plumbed. Not in its final interation due to my local napa being out of stock on a couple fittings I needed. But its together enough for me to work the bugs out till the final few pieces come in.

So line comes out of the fuel tank solenoid switch and tees, the tee’d line goes to a filter and then to the electric pump and then tees back in to the main line. Between the tees on the main line is a check valve to prevent the pump from pumping fuel back to the tank instead of to the carb. Main line then goes to the mechanical pump, then another filter, then to regulator and finally to the carb.

If I turn the electric pump on however, I am showing no pressure on my fuel pressure gage I have mounted on the regulator that is between the mechanical pump and the carb. Started the truck and let the mechanical pump fill the lines and gage shows 4/5 psi. Shut engine off and the electric pump shows no pressure still when I turn it on.

The electric pump should pump through the stock mechanical pump correct?

Wonder if maybe I have air in the line or if I am missing something dumb. Truck is getting fuel through the main line and the check valve just fine but my priming pump isnt priming.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
59,743 Posts
The electric pump should pump through the stock mechanical pump correct?
Mine do, I cannot imagine anybody making the insides different, just a movable diaphragm, and two one way valves.


Wonder if maybe I have air in the line or if I am missing something dumb. Truck is getting fuel through the main line and the check valve just fine but my priming pump isnt priming.
Air in the line, the pump usualy makes a racket, when the fuel starts to pressurize, the pump quiets down. I would double check the check valve. Is it a metal valve, or rubber. I started out with cheap rubber styles, and had issues of them sticking, and causing issues. So I replaced the rubber disks with steel balls, keeping the springs in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #297 ·
It is an all metal check valve, I dug through a lot to find it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #298 ·
Tomorrow I am going to disconnect the inlet hose from the mechanical pump and turn on the electric pump and make sure all the air is out to that point, eliminate the possible air lock as a problem. Ran out of time messing with it today.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
59,743 Posts
I'll be watching. Sucks to think you are wrapping up a project, and not have it working.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #300 ·
Eh part of it. Im a tinkerer anyway, its a machinist thing I guess. Always have to be messing with something.
 
281 - 300 of 304 Posts
Top