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Leave it unconnected. While operating, it will behave just as the other carbs, when parked it will be closed, and help control evaporation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #242 ·
What about that extra bracket that has the wire coming off of it? Can I remove that and move the idle stop screw to the normal location? Have to drill and tap the boss of course but that wouldnt be a problem. Just didnt know if I should remove that linkage completely.
 

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Yes, that wires was just there to tell the emissions stuff when you let off the gas. I'm thinking it controlled the timer that controlled the EGR, but it could have been for the air pump control valve. Either way, if you do not need the switch, and can easily fab another way for the screw to adjust the idle, nothing wrong with doing away with the extra metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #244 ·
Awesome. The idle stop screw boss is already there cast onto the bowl cover, just isnt drilled or tapped. I can do that easily enough.
 

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The solenoid on the throttle is part of an emissions package your truck never had. Probably lean burn only but the idea was to energize the solenoid and hold the throttle slightly open. The objective was to avoid dumping a load of unburned fuel in to the cat when hitting the off ramp.

I assume every TQ to be not only rebuilt, but rebuilt with mismatched parts and therefor the 9xxx number on the throttle plate is mostly irrelevant. Take for instance the first one ya posted here - absolutely not a 70s 400 truck carb. Biggest give away is no port for dist vac adv, other tell tale sign is 80s style fuel inlet. BTW, adding the dist port is pretty easy - stare, compare, drill.

Tear down, clean up, correct parts selection, assembly is the easy part. These things are insanely sensitive to control rod adjustments and that's where having a few running examples really comes in handy. The bonus fun is that a couple functions depend on multiple linkages and some are connected in ways you don't expect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
RWG75 said:
The solenoid on the throttle is part of an emissions package your truck never had. Probably lean burn only but the idea was to energize the solenoid and hold the throttle slightly open. The objective was to avoid dumping a load of unburned fuel in to the cat when hitting the off ramp.

I assume every TQ to be not only rebuilt, but rebuilt with mismatched parts and therefor the 9xxx number on the throttle plate is mostly irrelevant. Take for instance the first one ya posted here - absolutely not a 70s 400 truck carb. Biggest give away is no port for dist vac adv, other tell tale sign is 80s style fuel inlet. BTW, adding the dist port is pretty easy - stare, compare, drill.

Tear down, clean up, correct parts selection, assembly is the easy part. These things are insanely sensitive to control rod adjustments and that's where having a few running examples really comes in handy. The bonus fun is that a couple functions depend on multiple linkages and some are connected in ways you don't expect.
Thanks for the input, I was waiting to hear from you as well.

I had noticed that I would have to add the distributor port, which wouldnt be hard.

The bracket that I assume you mention is for the solenoid confuses me. It is not like the solenoid mount I have seen and has no solenoid on it. Just a contact with a wire coming off. I figured superburban was right on what it is, just a contact that lets the brain know when the throttle is closed.

I figured it was slim chances to be a NOS TQ, but I would also rather have a 25 year old rebuild than a new rebuild. Not so much for the rebuild itself, but more so because it is probably higher quality parts that went into it, atleast in my mind it would seem that way.

This carb came with 4098 primaries, 5143 secondaries and 2159 rods.

The carb on my truck when I bought it had 4098 primaries, 5125 secondaries and 1998 rods.

So I have a set of larger secondaries now. The 2159 rods are a little leaner in the mid range than the 1998 rods. .070-.062-.040 vs .070-.057-.040.
 

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Discussion Starter · #247 ·
I would also like to add, you are correct on all the adjustments as well.

I went through one of the manuals I got from dodgeboys (big thanks to him) to setup my original TQ that I rebuilt. There are so many things intertwined that I never would have imagined would have affected eachother.

I can definitely understand why these things get tossed to the side. My edelbrock was nowhere near as complicated, or atleast it seems that way. I have been into it several times changing rods, jets, springs just tinkering and its so much easier for a new-to-carbs guy to understand.

All that being said, messing with the edelbrock has led me to understand that the TQ is not all that different, pretty similar really. Just a few more features. I am nowhere near as intimidated now after taking several TQs apart and putting them back together.

I say that now but once I put the TQ back on the truck, I may be singing a different tune. 😆
 

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Throttle position switch vs throttle position solenoid depends on year / application. Wanna say switch was later.

Edlebrock bought Carter in the 80s or 90s. The common performer carb that everybody loves is heavily based on the TQ design with a couple AFB features mixed in. I hate them because ford style choke and chevy style throttle linkage.

The reason most people hate TQs is that they don't understand them and/or don't have the patience for them. I've often said that it's a design Rube Goldberg would be proud of but when ya get head completely around it they're really pretty simple.

Expect to continue some level of TQ hate until you get it dialed in to the truck. When it's right, you'll never want to run anything else. Some people refer to the distinctive sound they make as mooing. Yes, like the cow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #249 ·
Alright all you tuning experts, whats this plug say to you?
 

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My guess is overheating or a lean condition. I have read that the best way to do plug reading is to make a WOT run, then kill the motor, without doing much idling or low speed operation before pulling the plugs. Maybe this is just a method for drag racers, I don't know.

If it is an overheating or lean condition it could be due to timing, fuel mixture or improper heat range.

Bucky

 

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a pretty new plug , not melted , running a little lean maybe .
 

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W200'78 said:
This carb came with 4098 primaries, 5143 secondaries and 2159 rods.

The carb on my truck when I bought it had 4098 primaries, 5125 secondaries and 1998 rods.

So I have a set of larger secondaries now. The 2159 rods are a little leaner in the mid range than the 1998 rods. .070-.062-.040 vs .070-.057-.040.
That's on the lean side at idle and part throttle and this is where is basic spreadsheet skills come in handy as it helps when comparing jet / rod combos. Last two digits of the jet number are it's diameter. The effective jet size is the rod diameter subtracted from the jet diameter. 4098 / 1998 results in .028 - .036 - .058.

My 318 and 360s like .024 ish, my 440 and HO 360 prefer .033, adjust for altitude.
 

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Discussion Starter · #253 ·
If its lean, why are my tail pipes black and sooty?
 

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a lot of operation of the accelerator pump can cause a rich condition for a short period each time .... jiggle the throttle a lot do ya ?  plug looks fine to me , and or it don't have enough miles to "show" much if it had a rounded center electrode , spots on the ceramic , yeah hot/lean , but it don't , and looks pretty low mileage in a no oil burning motor ... tail pipe will always be black ( a carb ) question is how it does on the sniff test ? make ya run away quick ? rich .   
 

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Discussion Starter · #256 ·
No cats. A couple thousand miles on those plugs overall, about a hundred after some carb adjustments and what could be called generous use of the accelerator lol
 

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random WOT burst are therapeutic, rewarding and great for cleaning plugs.
jet / rod size looks a bit rich on the top step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #258 ·
RWG75 said:
random WOT burst are therapeutic, rewarding and great for cleaning plugs.
jet / rod size looks a bit rich on the top step.
You mean rich in the secondaries? Or do I need a metering rod with a larger small diameter on the primary side?
 

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how does it run ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #260 ·
dodge82273 said:
how does it run ?
Im still messing around with the edelbrock right now. Havnt swapped back to the TQ. I found a few things I did wrong on the initial install a while back, the biggest being that I didnt properly adjust the throttle cable and was only getting about 80% throttle with the pedal to the floor.

Fixed that and now I just cant seem to keep the pedal off the floor while driving...🤣

It runs really good now (who would have thought that last 20% or so would change so much hahaha). I cant complain really, biggest issue I see is the sooty tailpipes but that sounds normal I guess. Plugs didnt look terrible to me but again, Im still learning. That why I asked what yall thought about that plug.

Im a tinkerer and right now, Ive been messing with the eddy on nice days when I get time to get the truck out. Ill get bored with it once Ive done all I can do with it and swap back to the TQ. Right now Im just learning.

Ive got one TQ rebuilt with all the initial adjustments ready to slap on whenever I want to do it and another TQ in process. Still slowly building up a pile of spare carb parts.

Being relatively young and new to carbureted vehicles, I dont have the stockpile of parts some of you more seasoned fellars do. Edelbrock parts (mainly tuning parts) are very easy to find, obviously. So I have spent more time than I probably should playing with it instead of the TQs.
 
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