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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
It's a champion radiator. I'll get the details but they ended up swapping the drain bung and the lower outlet to match my needs. It's amazing how hard it is to find radiators these days. Ledfoot racing in orange, California did a great job getting my taken care of. I'll get the specs for you guys.
Eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Champion CC1640 is the model number of the radiator. I'm waiting on new radiator hoses to arrive, the current ones are ancient.
Eric
 

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I'm late to the party, but congrats on a sweet RC so close to home. No bad rust is the best bonus! They are so rare to come up for sale here, that I had to travel 5.5 hrs away for mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Yeah, I flew to Oklahoma to get my crewcab and shipped the 76 ramcharger I used to have from California. Just not usually much to choose from in the rust belt.
Eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Radiator is in, fluids topped off, and ran for about an hour. It all looks good. The shroud that was on it is not a bb truck shroud but I did some trimming and it fits perfect. The original shroud was laying in the back but the reason I'm guessing they switched it is because it has a flex fan on it and the original shroud wouldn't cover the fan to force it to draw through the radiator. I definitely recommend the fitment of the radiator, I'll update you on the cooling when we get road worthy.
Eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I also found what's causing it to be squirly on the road. Lot of play in the front driver wheel. I'm guessing wheel bearings need attention.
Eric
 

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It's a champion radiator. I'll get the details but they ended up swapping the drain bung and the lower outlet to match my needs. It's amazing how hard it is to find radiators these days. Ledfoot racing in orange, California did a great job getting my taken care of. I'll get the specs for you guys.
Eric
I was born in Orange, California.
Good things come from Orange, California. ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Well, only two out of 5 wheel studs snapped off on the first wheel...I don't know what they used to put these on but it was either a really good impact or a big breaker bar.
Eric
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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Got some bling baby! Now you need: valve covers, intake, water pump, timing cover and pulleys to match so it doesn't look outta place! Lol
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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Well, only two out of 5 wheel studs snapped off on the first wheel...I don't know what they used to put these on but it was either a really good impact or a big breaker bar.
Eric
Could be rust also
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Yeah, that's probably part of it. I ran a wire brush and some penetrating oil on them but they wasn't enough.
 

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Yeah, let them soak if you can. I know you had nothing to do with it but it's a good example why it pays to always use a little anti seize on the studs when the wheels are off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Have a rear bumper that isn't all crooked like the one on it so decided to make it a quick project for the day... yeah right. Got the old one off and started bolting the replacement up before I found that the brackets hit the body mount at the rear of the frame. Comparing the old vs the new the old is a little less beefy but curves around the body mount. No problem, I'll just swap the brackets. Well, like everything else the carriage bolts want to spin lol. I just sprayed more penetrating oil, put the tools away, swept up my mess and called it a night before I lost my cool.
Eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Had some play in the front driver side and it needed to come apart to replace broken wheel studs. Bearing looks good, somebody has been in here I just don't think they had the castle nut torqued properly. Fortunately it doesn't look like it's been driven on much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Got everything reassembled on the driver side and greased up. The outside bearing looked good, I didn't pull the inside bearing apart but I think I'm going to check it a little closer. I have a little bit of movement when I grab the tire at 12 and 6 and rock it, similar to how it would move if a ball joint is bad, but the ball joints don't have any movement so it has to be wheel bearing.
 

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Chances are it is the big hole that the bearings go into. It seems to wear faster then any other part.

Do not overly tighten the big nut, it will just hurt the bearings.

Several fixes.

Live with it, and keep an eye on them.
Dimple the heck out of the bore, so the bearings fit is tighter.
weld up and rebore the hole.
Find a better knuckle.
Bore it larger, and sleeve the bore.

Amongst a few
 
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