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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How can I run the lines to put my radiator behind the cab? It's going on a 79 Dodge Ramcharger frame,with a reg.cab Dodge cab on it. It's going to be a trail/mud truck with 44" Gumbo's on it,60/14 bolt with only 4"s of lift,probably not much of a frontend if so,just enough to keep mud from gettin all over the motor. Questions are:

How would you suggest to mount the radatior?
How would you run the lines?
What would you use to run the lines?
What size radiator?
What kind of fans and how many?
Mechinical or electronic water pump?

Any ideas or tips,pics or anything would be greatly appreciated.

Jimmy
 

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well if i mounted it behind the cab i would prolly mount it at an angle so it gets into the turbulance behind the cab better. also would run a 28" or bigger 4 core radiator with atleast 2 big electric fans. getting the water to the motor you would prolly want to run a high performance electric that can move the water that distance, and run the lines somewhere not too hot. u could use large solid pipe to be the hose and use a rubber line closer to the engine.
 

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For lines, I'd use Sched 40 PVC pipe probably of larger diameter.

You can build a rad support out of angle iron.

One big suggestion. Most mudders usually toss all their muddy stuff into the bed, you don't want to accidently punch a hole in the rad, consider covering the entire rad with some steel mesh.

Ed
 

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For the record - PVC can only withstand temp's of 140 deg's F., CPVC can take up to 210 deg's. - I might feel a little better with some kind of thinwall steel tubing.... but I don't really know, these kind of rigs are not really my 'thing'.....
 

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I would use a 2 1/4 inch stainless tubing, all you would have to worry about using that is the price. As for the rad I would use a be cool universal rad 31"x19" jegs part # 134-65007. A freind on mine has a be cool rad in his mustang and it is one of the nices rads i have ever seen. All this with a electric water pump and dual electric fans and then put in a 100 plus amp alternator. That would be a very nice set up.
 

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Are you guy's all insane or just not thinking, lets see your going to run lines from the water pump to the radiator # 1 don't use bigger than the pumps inlet and # 2 why in the hell would you use anything other than thin alum pipe you want to COOL IT remember so why not use a material that will quickly disapate heat especially since you are going to use it for a long distance, steel add more weight to it, pvc, stainless wtf are you building a salt water boat c'mon
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well what would you suggest Marty,I'm very open for suggestions bud. It ain't gonna have a heater box or anything in it so that won't have any room for that extra water it holds. Any suggestions on what kind of electric fans to run? Open for suggestions on that,how to mount it,type of radiator,type of pipe,size of it etc etc etc.

Jimmy
 

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Evildriver-3 said:
Are you guy's all insane or just not thinking, lets see your going to run lines from the water pump to the radiator # 1 don't use bigger than the pumps inlet and # 2 why in the hell would you use anything other than thin alum pipe you want to COOL IT remember so why not use a material that will quickly disapate heat especially since you are going to use it for a long distance, steel add more weight to it, pvc, stainless wtf are you building a salt water boat c'mon
PVC of the correct temp range is cheap and easy to work with. Sure a steel tube would be nice and help disapate heat, but you'll need acess to a mandral tube bender and you're probably best to weld up the seams. Also have you considered frame flex and it's effects on a metal tube? The PVC will have more give. Yeah you can put in some rubber hose to take up the flex, but you're introducing more joints that could spring a leak.

I suggested pvc of a larger diameter to increase coolant volume. More volume means more heat can be absorbed by the coolant and it's velocity thru the system will slow down which will allow it a longer time to disapate before returning to the engine.

Aluminum tubing, I would agree, could be ideal, but it's not cheap. I'm also skeptical as to it's heat disapation value when the tube will share space with the exaust system, and other heat sources, such as, radiated heat from the pavement below, and perhaps the tranny. If the aluminum tube does radiate alot of heat, just thinking about it, may not be ideal. You'll create another high heat source under the cab, making for shoe melting conditions during the summer.

Since pvc will tend to keep the heat in due to it's insulating value, it may not absorb outside heat and not radiate heat into the cab. I would just use a bigger radiator away from the cab. There are no confines in the bed of a pick up, so anything is possible, from using twin rads to a big Peterbilt rad.

Ed
 

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TheRamChargerMan said:
fiero owners would be a good place to get ideas.....they had a rear engine front rad combo
There's really nothing tricky with a Fiero. Just a thin walled steel tube running down each side of the car. Inlet side (to the engine) runs down the driver's side, and the outlet runs up the pass. side. Then from the steel tubes, it's rubber hose to the radiator and engine.
 

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TheRamChargerMan said:
I know, but I was aaying, if it worked for them, it should work for his application.
I agree. I would do the same thing in his application. It's simple and it works.
 

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MoparMurdoc said:
Why would you wanna move the radiator to the back anyways? Better cooling?
He's building a purpose-built mud truck. Think about how much cooling a front mounted rad covered in 3" of mud would provide. Mud guys put em in the back to prevent that mud loading.
 

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I'd use alluminised exaust tubing. I wouldn't want allum. pipe flowing coolant under an off road truck, seems like the first peice of gravel that comes up will put a hole in it. Also, on the issue of frame flex, why not mount the coolant tubes on exaust hangers? Then the issue from frame flex is eliminated.
Good luck with your project Jimmy. :)
-Steve C.
 

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Wait!! what the hell!!! you guy's aren't building a road car that you keep all the air running over the car and not underneath it, a truck way up in the air will be removing all the heat all over, the only way your gonna melt your shoes is by tucking the motor and trans and exhaust against the floor and sitting it on the floor and having a very well built air dam to keep all air over top, there are no shoes gonna melt to the floor.

Ok here is what i do, get thin alum pipe run it anywhere you want along side the trans, along side the rocker panel, where ever you want it doesn't have to be near the exhaust or the trans what i do is take the longest distance this way you have more coolant capacity and more area of pipe to disapate heat, you can either get crazy and mig the pipe together or use hose, they make hose with all kinds of bends in them, i do this on my motors and you don't have to flare the pipe, i have yet to lose a hose even with god only knows what the water pump is spinning at when the crank is spinning 8k rpm
 
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