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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so here's what so far. Pulled the valve cover off on passanger side which is where the noise seems to be coming from. First I had checked that the oil sender unit was pluged in and that the plug wires were correct, and those checked out so with the valve cover off I started the truck. Seemed to be iol around the valve train but pretty noisy and I couldn't see any oil flow. Dried off the rockers and where oil pools in the head at the front half of the head at the bottom area of the head/valve cover area. Couldn't see any more oil comimg out, then figured the push rods should be where the oil is flowing from into the top end and no oil coming out of the top of the push rods. Now, I am only idling the engine but I should get some oil I think. I am trying to get a gasket for the pump to block and if I get one I am going to pull the pump and put on a different old one I have. Just to check if its the pump or some blockage on the pass side of the oil system. I doont want to put a new pump on because the engine will be coming out in a couple of months and I want to run a high volume but with a new deeper pan and 1/2 pick up.
 

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You didn't like the other post? i had given some advice there.

Mopars don't oil thru the push rods except for that mag motor crap, it oils thru the shafts
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey evil, thanks for the post. No, the other post was fine, I just cant believe the pump staoped working because I didnt do anything to make it happen. The noise isnt coming from the pum, its coming from the pass side valve train. At least its what its sounds like today. No noise from the other side, and I think the sending unit runs off the pass side as well so maybe no oil getting to that side. I will pull the dist tomorrow and I guess I need to pull the gear and shaft out because I wont be able to turn the oil pump with the shaft in place because of the gear in contact with the cam gear. So pull the distributor and shaft, and fab up some sort of shaft to turn the pump. Right? I will see what I can do about the guage. So what are the holes in the rockers at the push rods for? I though the oil goes to the lifters and up through the pushrods. Also the shafts have holes in the bottom for rocker shaft oiling but???
 

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Ok MP sells a priming shaft tool, i have 1 but your far away.

The oil comes up thru the pick up and then to the 1st cam bearing, and 1st crank and then right main oil gallery and down and up to each crank main and cam bearing then crossing over to the left gallery and the 4th cam bearing oils the rockers, at this point the oil comes thru the cam up the oil passage thru the rocker pedastal into the rocker shafts fills the shafts and either fills the stamped rockers and it drips a touch of oil on the push rod tip or down the ductile adjustable rocker onto the push rod tip.

When ever you think you have a oil psi problem do what i said in the other post, and determine if it's the guage or the pump, if it's the pump remove it and very important to take it apart and see what caused it's problem, i have seen lifters come apart and break pumps, a single 1/4 inch strand of stainless braided wire, and things like that you want to find or it will happen again, and you may not be lucky next time, you may not be lucky this time, whenever you hear a noise you need to race to the key and kill the motor don't continue to start it and look for problems unless it isn't yours and it's a non mopar brand.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree. Turn it off at any bad / strange sound. But this engine is soon to be rebuilt / replaced so if it wont work for me now its kinda bad but not the end of the world. Question I have is about the sending unit. Its an electrical oil pressure guage in the stock form. In order to get a mechanical guage the sending unit needs to be changed to one where i can attach a line (hose) to run to the guage. Does the electrical pressure guage need a seperate power source other than the wire from the sending unit, and if so does the mechanical guage need anything else other than a light? As to the priming tool I will cut the gear off a spare old shatf and see what I can do to get it on a drill. What direction does it turn? Any guess on max / min rpm to turn it?
 

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any drill, the faster, the more psi and counter clockwise. Get a mechanical GUAGE no lights or senders, lights and senders make mistakes, a guage does to but it makes the mistake of actually telling you that you have no oil psi when you do, and not telling you that you have oil psi when you don't
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, so I did what I was told. I removed the electric oil sender and installed the fittings with the thin plastic line. Didnt even put the guage on the other end...just wanted to get the air out...and to see some oil coming through. Removed dist and geared shaft, and put my shaft and drill into the pump. turned counter clockwise for over a minute a couple of different times. Drill could have been faster but it wasnt too bad. Nothing. No oil coming to the sending line. Everything else (distr shaft, gear shaft, movement of the pump with the drill seemed fine, except there was very little resistance from the pump on the drill. And it was in far enough and was turning the pump. So I am guessing either the pump somehow is toast OR maybe the spring in the pump which regulates pressure?? or somesort of relief valve is stuck. Or maybe its pumping but not reaching (blockage) the oil sending unit?
 

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Well you need a pump then, are you sure you had the shaft in , did you use a MP tool or a dist drive shaft you modified
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I made my own tool sort of...worked great. I took a side by side measure against the dist and the geared shaft when connected and marked where the homemade shaft should be when its in the pump (marked the manifold distance) and it was in the pump. Also gets about 1" mark of oil on the bottom of the homemade shaft from the hex hole in the pump. So I'm sure it went in allright. I am going to redo it in the AM with a fresh charge on the drill just in case, but its a real long shot. Just cant figure why the pump would go at that time. No stress on it then. Engine wasnt turning that fast or anything. Oh well. Maybe I got lucky with the timing and didnt cause it to happen, just happen to be watching close when the pump went bad. I have to make the pump to block gasket because its 3 days next week to get one. Has to come from Ont.???? WTF. And nobody but the dealer even seems to have a clue about that gasket. I dont suppose the oil line for the guage needs to be connected to the guage to fill with oil does it?? I'm reaching here. I am going to throw on a used pump I have because I want to do a high volume with 7 or 8 quart pan and 1/2 pick up on the rebuild...which might be soon than I would like. By the way, I think my stainless valves in the 915 head dont have hardend seats. Tough to be 100% sure if its a real tight fit but it dont look like seat inserts to me. No seat problems though.
 

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Well you'll find out soon, in the mean time just pop the damned pump off already and see what's going on inside, if everything looks good no discoloring, no pieces, no missing pieces of pump, then put it back on and see what happens. If your not turning alot of rpm and you don't open up the oil passages then don't worry about the 1/2" pick up just do the HV pump
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Evildriver-3 said:
Well you'll find out soon, in the mean time just pop the damned pump off already and see what's going on inside, if everything looks good no discoloring, no pieces, no missing pieces of pump, then put it back on and see what happens. If your not turning alot of rpm and you don't open up the oil passages then don't worry about the 1/2" pick up just do the HV pump
Well, I think I am going to run fully grooved bearings, and since it doesnt cost anything extra really the 1/2 inlet size seems like a cheap easy upgrade. Can't see it doing any harm if I drill out the inlet passage, clean up the bend a little, and thread it for 1/2". Do you know of why it might not be a good idea? I want to run HV pump and 7 (likely) or 8 quart pan. I would not run a HV pump without the larger pan. So if I'm in there anyway and need a new pick-up anyway ....
 

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On a motor that isn't going to see high rpms for an extended amount of time i wouldn't worry about the 1/2 conversion, i would however add the HV pump and added pan capacity and even go to an alum pan for it's ability to remove heat.

Have you taken the old pump apart to what was going on in there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No, I dont want to pull the existing pump off until I can put the replacement on. My lane is mostly dirt and weeds so I dont want to leave that area exposed too long. I know what you are saying about the 1/2 dia inlet for the oil pump maybe not being required but since its a cheap improvement and the motor could see higher revs in the future I think it will be done. Also a windage tray. The hv pump, 7 or more pan, 1/2 inlet and windage is a significant improvement to the oil system. An oil cooler would be the only other improvement worth the trouble but I dont know how hard that install is on a BB.
 

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Oh the windage tray is a good install and worth it, but your gonna have to remove the motor and totally take it apart and clean it very well to do the 1/2 p/u
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ya, I would only do that if I am building a 383 (or 440 , 413) on a stand in the garage. I would not go to the trouble unless it's an easy mod. Got my gasket and o rings today so if no rain on WE I will get that pump off and get a look at it. Got another used pump for now to use in the meantime. We will see what happens.
 
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