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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking of making a tailgate for my truck. Current one is a bit rotten and bent. Let me know what you think of the mockup. Was thinking of using the locking mechanisms out of my current tailgate inside the side angle iron. Basically the locking mechanism would be same design. Was gonna drill holes through the square stock for the cables to run between the handle and the latches. Didn't bother sketching up everything that's going between the square stock, but gonna use some kind of heavy duty grate material. What ya think?

 

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I understand this is the fab board, so "anything goes", but just for curiosities sake, wouldn't it be easier to just put a new tailgate on? Or does this specially fabbed one serve some purpose the stock one doesn't?

Next question? Why spend the time to put a lock on something I can climb into or reach my hand into? I know you wouldn't want it to fall down while going down the road, but if I was reinventing the wheel I might be tempted to take the lazy way out and use a lynch pin? (probably wouldn't even have it fold down, rather swing split side to side double door style)
 

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I'm not sure if it's a mistake in terminology or conscious choice but I would not use 1" square stock for the frame.  Square stock is solid and would make for a very heavy tailgate that would bend whatever the hinges mount to over time.  Some 1" square tubing with a decent wall thickness would be more than enough and would probably make the assembly half the weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
s ǝoɾ said:
I understand this is the fab board, so "anything goes", but just for curiosities sake, wouldn't it be easier to just put a new tailgate on? Or does this specially fabbed one serve some purpose the stock one doesn't?

Next question? Why spend the time to put a lock on something I can climb into or reach my hand into? I know you wouldn't want it to fall down while going down the road, but if I was reinventing the wheel I might be tempted to take the lazy way out and use a lynch pin? (probably wouldn't even have it fold down, rather swing split side to side double door style)
Those two metal notches on the bed that the tailgate hinges on have long been rusted away. I fixed them a while ago pretty quick just to have a working gate but don't really like how it looks and feels. You are correct I could buy another tailgate and make it work, but I want to go custom with it.

Maybe lock is the wrong term to use. I'm going to use the latching mechanism off my old tailgate. The reason for this is I need a gate that is secure so my 4 wheeler won't fall out when I close it. I'd like it to swing down just for the nicety of loading stuff. I transport a decent amount of equipment, 4 wheelers, ext and that extra 2ft or so with the gate down sometimes makes the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Elwenil said:
I'm not sure if it's a mistake in terminology or conscious choice but I would not use 1" square stock for the frame. Square stock is solid and would make for a very heavy tailgate that would bend whatever the hinges mount to over time. Some 1" square tubing with a decent wall thickness would be more than enough and would probably make the assembly half the weight.
Yeah 1" square tubing is what I'll be using. Every shop I've ever worked in has referred to 1" square tubing as square stock. If it were solid it would be called 1" square bar. I also got an idea last night to butt the end of the square tubing with 1/2" pipe. Then I'd use 1/2" bolts for my hinges. I think of everything my weakest point would be the bolt hinging inside the square stock. This would give it less slack over time and less chance of wearing out.
 
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I like it. Good for your fab skills. Only thing on the hinges is when the gate's laying down against the bumper, {if I'm getting this correctly} is the leverage applied to the hinges when a load such as a 4 wheeler is driven up on it. Depends on where the gate lays on the bumper as to how much leverage is on the hinges.
A 1/2" bolt may not be up to the task.  A 1/2" diameter applies lots of force to a small root area. The stock hinge pin is about 7/8" or 1", so you might want to upsize a notch or two on the diameter to spread the load on the pin area.

  Otherwise, I like your design. Stuff like that is what makes your truck yours. Sure you could just buy a gate and slap it on, but it's not what you buy, it's what you build. Remember guys?  Post some pics when it's in progress. ;D
 

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lugnuts said:
Otherwise, I like your design. Stuff like that is what makes your truck yours. Sure you could just buy a gate and slap it on, but it's not what you buy, it's what you build. Remember guys? Post some pics when it's in progress. ;D
I was actually setting him up, I'll admit it. ;D You see, around these parts they sell tailgates almost just like that, "farm gates" which are advertised to "increase mpg". They don't work. I just wanted to see if that was part of his justification.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
lugnuts said:
I like it. Good for your fab skills. Only thing on the hinges is when the gate's laying down against the bumper, {if I'm getting this correctly} is the leverage applied to the hinges when a load such as a 4 wheeler is driven up on it. Depends on where the gate lays on the bumper as to how much leverage is on the hinges.
A 1/2" bolt may not be up to the task. A 1/2" diameter applies lots of force to a small root area. The stock hinge pin is about 7/8" or 1", so you might want to upsize a notch or two on the diameter to spread the load on the pin area.

Otherwise, I like your design. Stuff like that is what makes your truck yours. Sure you could just buy a gate and slap it on, but it's not what you buy, it's what you build. Remember guys? Post some pics when it's in progress. ;D
its going to hang similar to most first gens, so it won't be touching the bumper. just gonna make up (2) 3" X 12" hangers out of flat stock for each side. Then just bolt them together where they hinge. I like the feel of first gen tailgate hangers over the cable ones in newer trucks. I think hanger is the right term? I'll post pics when I get to it in the next month or so. Right now I have a laundry list of things I'm doing to my truck. :)
 
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jmbruen said:
its going to hang similar to most first gens, so it won't be touching the bumper. just gonna make up (2) 3" X 12" hangers out of flat stock for each side.
OK. Thought you meant to occasionally let it down against the bumper to load your ATV etc.
 

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jmbruen said:
Yeah 1" square tubing is what I'll be using. Every shop I've ever worked in has referred to 1" square tubing as square stock. If it were solid it would be called 1" square bar. I also got an idea last night to butt the end of the square tubing with 1/2" pipe. Then I'd use 1/2" bolts for my hinges. I think of everything my weakest point would be the bolt hinging inside the square stock. This would give it less slack over time and less chance of wearing out.
don't use a bolt for the hinge pin, over time the threads will smash/ flatten, or even dig into the other sections of the hinge, causing more problems.

a simple alternative, is the 5/8 pins used for the trailer hitches, they are plenty strong, hardened to take the shear stress, and the simple banging around, and they are plentiful, and easily replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
SuperBurban said:
don't use a bolt for the hinge pin, over time the threads will smash/ flatten, or even dig into the other sections of the hinge, causing more problems.

a simple alternative, is the 5/8 pins used for the trailer hitches, they are plenty strong, hardened to take the shear stress, and the simple banging around, and they are plentiful, and easily replaced.
yeah pins may be a good idea if could fit a hair pin in that area with out it binding against something. if i use bolts its going to be a partially threaded bolt, so not to screw up the threads. What's the technical term for this kind of bolt, partially threaded?
 

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s ǝoɾ said:
A 1/2" grade 8 bolt should have a sheer strength (cut in half) of ~ 17,000lbs. The surrounding metal should deform before the bolt experiences ultimate failure.
Even Stock Tailgates can support serious weight.

I pulled a 440 over the Tailgate on my old W50. Hooked a Come-A-Long to the Tie-Downs at the Front of the Bed (Boxed section) and to the 440.. Drug it up over a pair of landscape timbers, across the tailgate and into the Bed.

The Tailgate even had a broken Cable, so it was supporting a 440 with stock hinges, and 1 cable.

Did the same when i loaded my Diesel Engine & Transmission (bolted together)
 

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jmbruen said:
yeah pins may be a good idea if could fit a hair pin in that area with out it binding against something. if i use bolts its going to be a partially threaded bolt, so not to screw up the threads. What's the technical term for this kind of bolt, partially threaded?
maybe you could go with this kind.



or the way I would go, is use the angled handle to your advantage, and have it designed so that it can only be put in when the tailgate is opened up. And have the handle part of the pin fit into a slot in the tailgate, so it cannot come out, unless it is pulled from the slot, and slid out, which could only be done with the tail gate open.
 

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Have you considered folding sections to the new tailgate and eliminate ramps when loading
4 wheelers and things... just a thought.
 
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s ǝoɾ said:
A 1/2" grade 8 bolt should have a sheer strength (cut in half) of ~ 17,000lbs. The surrounding metal should deform before the bolt experiences ultimate failure.
When he said stub the square tube with 1/2" pipe I assumed he'd changed up his hinges to swivel on the bed like the stock ones. The sheetmetal was my concern, not the bolt.

OK, I'll sit down and shut up now. ;D
 
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