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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got a little quality RC time and re-wired the charging system. I drilled a 1" hole thru the firewall and installed a pass-thru style junction block. It gives me a power junction under the hood as well as under the dash without having to run extra wire. I now have a power junction under the dash for things like my amp, stereo, power seats, etc.

I ran 10ga from the alternator straight to the junction block and 12ga from the block to the battery for a charging wire. I then took all those dash power up wires, crimped with a ring terminal and added those to the junction block. Along with my MSD and headlight relays. I was able to get rid of all those butt connectors and old brittle wire, as well as the Dodge crimped power junction.

I'm now getting 13.9 volts at the junction block, 13.7 at the battery and just over 13 at the headlights. My headlights are far brighter and the gauges have actually started to work like they're supposed to.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The block is mounted next to the bulkhead connector which allowed me to shorten all those wires and helped clean up the fenderwell area. This is a great upgrade and can be done in a couple hours.

 

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I like that idea. It really cleans the area up.
 

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Dam, add another mod to the long list
 

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Looks good, where did you pickup your pass-thru style junction block?
 

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how too? cmon now PG! you know the deal. pics an a detailed explanation for us unimaginative fellahs
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Actually Willy, this is a no-brainer. Mount the junction block of your choice in an area relatively protected and fairly close to the bulkhead connector and run wire from the alt to the junction. Run wire from the junction to the battery for charging. I don't know about other years, mine is an 85. On mine I located the pigtail coming off the battery positive terminal. That pigtail runs to a large white single wire connector. On the other side of the connector is a large crimp. This is Chrysler's junction block.There are, I believe, seven wires of various gauge all run into this crimp, including some on fusible links. All the wires (except one) are cut back, a ring terminal installed and insulated, and hooked up at your new junction block. The one exception is the wire from the starter relay. I would suggest running this wire to the battery pos cable. (I re-used that big white connector). Running wire straight from the alternator to this junction will bypass your ammeter. Which is a good thing.

Now that I have the wiring straightened out, I plan on installing a Delco Remy 12si alternator and using a remote voltage sensing system. Then I can install a 2 speed Taurus electric fan, along with other accessories, and not worry about overloading the entire electrical system.
 

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ok.


i have to admit an embarrasing fact. im an idiot.
i learn by pictures an detailed explanations. but i think i can hash it out! ;D

course you sold me on this with the brighter lights part! which wire from the alt did you run to this? theres 3 hooked up to mine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Naw, you're no idiot.

Once you get the hood up and look around a little it'll become obvious. If you need help, just holler. I tried to make a how to out of this but I hate stopping in midstream to take pics. I don't want to get my grubby hands all over my new camera.

(BTW, it's the big wire off the alternator, the two smaller guages run to the voltage regulator and a switched source)
 

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thanks PG. to bad i didnt live closer! love to help with how toos!
 

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PG thats a real good looking job. I like that idea.
Thanks,
Gary
 

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Looking good PG I have somthing similar on thr Crew but its mounted mid chassis,got mine from West Marine it has 1 main 3/8" lug with a rong of # 8 screwes around it for accessories :D
 

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Hey PG u cna do a How To and keep the camera clean just use some medical rubber gloves .
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I finally found the time to install the Delco Remy alternator and wire it up as remote voltage sensing. The alternator itself is easy to adapt to the mopar brackets, just took a little grinding here and there and the use of spacers to line up the pulleys. Then just run 12ga wire from the internally regulated alternator to the power junction (shown in the pics above) and voila, 14.2 volts at the junction. It's truly amazing how well all the accessories work now that they are receiving more than minimal voltage. Even my stereo sounds crisper. Along with the H4 conversions, my headlights are a brilliant white.

I also installed a VDO voltmeter and wired it to the fuse block. Even there, I'm still getting over 14 volts. The only problem is that hooked up this way, the alternator does not self-excite. You must blip the throttle to start the alternating charging. That can be remedied, I just don't want to do it. This is a great upgrade.
 

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That is a great upgrade! any ideas on how that would work with a computer regulated vehicle as far as the remote voltage sensing would go? ??? I'd love to put something like that on my 90 RC.

James
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm not so sure that the computer on a 90 regulates the alternator output. If that's the case, it's just a matter of installing the Delco Remy alternator and running the wires. The key here is that the Delco is internally regulated and has a connector on the alternator that allows the remote sensing. It's also an alternator style that has been around for many years, it's cheap, you can find them in any junkyard, and they range from 66 amp to 105 amp. If you're running a serpentine belt, you can look for the newer (87 and up) Delco Remy models, CS130. They have serpentine pulleys and can be retro fitted with the "Iceberg" upgrade, up to 140 amps.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I replaced mine about a year ago when it went out and installed a 120 amp model, but on the box it says "computer regulated". I'm afraid to switch it to something else for fear of offending the computer. I've got the dual v belt pulleys on it, so i'm not running the serpantine thing. I guess I'll try and find some info on how and where the computer reads the voltage. Then maybe i can take that sensor and put it at a junction box.
 
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