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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to get a new engine for my 86 RC, have not been able find much of anything that is in good enough shape in this area as a doner. I have been drooling all over the Mopar Performance Parts web-site: http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/blocks.html and have a question about the 360 Magnum-380 HP 360 V8 crate motor part number 5249499 for ($3,595.00).

First off can all of my pre-Magnum LA 360 brackets work on this engine? I know the Magnum's are all with serpentine belts and that runs the water pump backwards, is this a problem to run with my old v-belt set-up?

Second, when they say that the stock PCM is not recommended, where can I get a PCM if I did want to use the MPFI? Also is anyone making an after market harness that can be used with it, if I did want to use the MPFI?

Third, who has ordered from this web-site before and was it for this engine? I'm wondering how long this will take to come in after ordering it? Additionally what did any one else experiance in changing out an LA with a Magnum from them since its not all "Q'ed" up on the front like an engine from a doner or a jy?

Fourth, if I put this engine in place of my 86's what all emissions crap do I have to carry over? That blasted pump and egr will that have to be on this engine? I don't think that it is setup for that old stuff. I want to be able to drive on the street with it and pass inspection. Would it be better to run MPFI? (this area only looks at the equipment no sniff testing, yet)

And last, that note in the write-up about not for use with A/C, what is that refering to, the brackets won't clear the thermostat and radiator hose connection? Has anyone used A/C on this motor? If so how did they do it?

Has anyone ordered this engine and how do you like it?

Thanks,
Gary
 

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# 1 these motors are designed to be retrofitted in older vehicles
# 2 the 300 and 380 horse motors come with a four Bbl intake
# 3 a friend ordered the 300 horse for his truck but not from that site
# 4 the four Bbl intake has all the provisions for the smog stuff
last / the intake does not have the offset thermostat houseing for the AC pump to fit / you would need a different intake
my friend loves the 300 horse one
 

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You can make the A/C work it has to do with the location of the therm housing, see my truck in the members truck section to see how to fix that problem for the A/C as for the motor Chris Lib has the same motor in his truck he did a how to on it so check out the how to section and look for ChrisLib's how to post or im him or email him if you can
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Since they are disigned as a retro-fit to the older years I don't have to grind off any of the weights on my torqe conventer?
 

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no luck there, the TC for the Magnum 360 has to be balanced differently than the LA 360.
If you have a good 360 LA short block, adding Magnum heads is the way to go, and keep all the original belt driven stuff. There will be some minor bracket issues. I suppose I could post some side-by-side pics of LA vs. Magnum heads as I have both in my garage right now. would that help?
left head is LA, right is Magnum, notice the Mag has extra holes and the lower left hole if placed quite a bit forward compared to the LA hole...
 

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the 360 magnum crate engines are balanced like LA 360's. Regular production 360 magnums are different. I'm pretty sure i read that somewhere. I will double check though. Also for a truck use the 300 hp engine, not the 380. its more for a drag car running in the 11's or 12's. It would require a stall converter with an automatic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
chrysler300le said:
the 360 magnum crate engines are balanced like LA 360's. Regular production 360 magnums are different. I'm pretty sure i read that somewhere. I will double check though. Also for a truck use the 300 hp engine, not the 380. its more for a drag car running in the 11's or 12's. It would require a stall converter with an automatic.
Please check on the balance, I'm seriously thinking about getting one of these crate engines. I think I know why I wanted the 380hp, I used to drag race when I was in H.S. I don't want to drag a truck, just want plenty of power.
Thank you,
Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Evildriver-3 said:
Get the 408 crate motor
I'd love to get the 408, can't afford that one until around November. Have always wanted a stroker. Right now I can get any of the 360's below 380 hp. I have to have it in before Oct thats inspection. And don't want to do anything after that since the winters are so crappy here and I don't have a garage that I can get the RC into so will have to go with the 360 with 380 hp. Shoot its only an additional $300.oo over the 300 hp. Thats a deal.

I still can't figure out why the 300 hp is $100 less than the stocker Magnum replacement which doesn't have a hp rating!
 

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Do you have to pass a emissions test? If so forget either engine. As far as the 380 hp goes. It will have a very noticible lope and give away that its not stock. Its single plane intake and the cam it has wouldnt' build any power till about 3000 rpm. This would require 4.10 gears and about a 3000 rpm stall converter. Not good for highway driving. If your below 3000 rpm the TC would slip and heat the tranny fluid up. If you dont' go with a stall converter then it will be a total dog till it hits about 3000 rpm. The 300 hp version is way more drivable and has more low end torque. One Mopar mag used one to test headers and exhaust manifolds and with really restrictive exhaust manifolds it made 311 hp. Went up to 325 or so with headers.

I was wrong on the balancing deal. Its still balanced for a magnum but the crate engine comes with the correct weight to be welded onto a 0 balance TC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
chrysler300le said:
Do you have to pass a emissions test? If so forget either engine. As far as the 380 hp goes. It will have a very noticible lope and give away that its not stock. Its single plane intake and the cam it has wouldnt' build any power till about 3000 rpm. This would require 4.10 gears and about a 3000 rpm stall converter. Not good for highway driving. If your below 3000 rpm the TC would slip and heat the tranny fluid up. If you dont' go with a stall converter then it will be a total dog till it hits about 3000 rpm. The 300 hp version is way more drivable and has more low end torque. One Mopar mag used one to test headers and exhaust manifolds and with really restrictive exhaust manifolds it made 311 hp. Went up to 325 or so with headers.

I was wrong on the balancing deal. Its still balanced for a magnum but the crate engine comes with the correct weight to be welded onto a 0 balance TC.
No on emissions testing, but they do look for pump and all that mess.

As for the lobbing and hi-end power cutting in, I think that I could live with the 300hp version. Would give me more money to spend on headers/gearing/fixing the A/C and any sensors and a new distributor.

Any recommendations for what would be the best for a distributor?

The only question that still remains is to cut my ballence weights off of the TQ or not. I don't know if my TQ with the weights is considered 'zero' ballenced?

So, to cut or not to cut is the question?
 

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Ram said:
chrysler300le said:
Do you have to pass a emissions test? If so forget either engine. As far as the 380 hp goes. It will have a very noticible lope and give away that its not stock. Its single plane intake and the cam it has wouldnt' build any power till about 3000 rpm. This would require 4.10 gears and about a 3000 rpm stall converter. Not good for highway driving. If your below 3000 rpm the TC would slip and heat the tranny fluid up. If you dont' go with a stall converter then it will be a total dog till it hits about 3000 rpm. The 300 hp version is way more drivable and has more low end torque. One Mopar mag used one to test headers and exhaust manifolds and with really restrictive exhaust manifolds it made 311 hp. Went up to 325 or so with headers.

I was wrong on the balancing deal. Its still balanced for a magnum but the crate engine comes with the correct weight to be welded onto a 0 balance TC.
No on emissions testing, but they do look for pump and all that mess.

As for the lobbing and hi-end power cutting in, I think that I could live with the 300hp version. Would give me more money to spend on headers/gearing/fixing the A/C and any sensors and a new distributor.

Any recommendations for what would be the best for a distributor?

The only question that still remains is to cut my ballence weights off of the TQ or not. I don't know if my TQ with the weights is considered 'zero' ballenced?

So, to cut or not to cut is the question?
It comes with a new Mopar Perf dist, so no need to buy one, as for the converter, unless you have access to , or can weld just grind the weight off the converter (carefully) and get the B&M flexplate I used, works like a charm, AND if you ever decide to change converters down the road all you have you have to do is spec out a nuetral balance one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That sounds great to me, Thank you all for the help I'm looking at ordering my new engine by the end of the month. Leaning toward the 300hp.

Thanks to all again.
Gary
 

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Evildriver-3 said:
Chris has the 380 version
Nope, the 300, altho I`d like 380 I don`t feel like driving a 5000lb truck with a 3000 stall converter and 5in of hg @idle, lol.
 
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