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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Correct me if im on the wrong page or if there is a thread already covering this subject(i couldnt find it)..
My latest project is a 75 w300 custom. Obviously an la and specifically a 318. It has problems and needs help. I also own an 85 ram also an la 318...but high miles and needs help. Recently a neighbor offered me a handful of 360s and a couple 96 and 98 parts trucks. He says the trucks also have 360s. My guess is the two trucks would be magnums? My hope is at least one of the loose engines is an LA. I havent seen them yet...
At any rate if they are all magnums would it be sensible to swap one in? And if so is it possible to switch to a carbed intake(aftermarket) and use the la 318 distributor? And what about the crank sensor? Take it easy on me please im no engine guy and new to dodge but im learning.
 

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yes you can carb a mag , yes the 318 L/A dizzy will bolt in a mag , with that you are no longer using the crank sensor when in an older truck with the ecu on the firewall . note there are engine ballance difference between 318L/A 360L/A and 360 magnum . each needs their own type of front damper , and flywheel/converter/flex plate . 318 has a 1/2 difference in height of the motor mounting BRACKETS bolted to the engine , dakota used a different mount may not have the tabs on the engine for the full size's brackets ..

if you have advanced mechanic skills , and a '96 parts truck , an EFI 360 mag is the best the factory offered power wise (OK short of a modified big block ....)
 

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All the magnums through 97 at least (Well beyond, I think), have the tabs for the older style mounts.

My first choice for an engine, would be a magnum 360, carbed, or either type of fuel injection.
 

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you can add a cam snout extension. available through a few sources. So a mechanical pump can be used.
 

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With the cam snout extension, do you then have to go with a regular LA front cover and water pump?  If so, all the LA pulleys & brackets would have to be used?  How do they match up to the magnum head bolt bosses where needed?
 

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Yes, you would need the LA timing cover and accessory drives.  On my '72 Charger that I swapped a crate in years ago I had to redrill the pivot hole in the alternator bracket when I swapped on all the '72 LA stuff.  Other than that, it was a bolt on deal.  Others have done the swap and everything bolted up, so it may have just been how old the design was of my '72 stuff.
 

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The later (87 I think) front ends do not use the bolt hole in the head (The ones that have the screw adjustment for tightening the alt).

I have not compared the two timing covers, to see if one could mill the fuel pump mount, or not. At least living in a desert, I like the electric fuel pumps anyway, here the new fuel evaporates from the carb bowls in a day or so.

I think the magnum water pump, and fan clutch/ fan combo are well worth the cost of an electric fuel pump, and accompanying hardware & switch.
 

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a 25 dollar electric in line pump makes low pressure , is intended for use with a carb , needs no pressure regulator , lasts for years ,and , flows enough fuel . the oil pressure idiot light switch from a 1987 small block , that has the 3 spade connectors , will act as a automatic shutdown safety switch . ( use the normally open spades that were intended for the electric choke heater ) , no oil pressure = no fuel pump ) then use the stock magnum front accessory's , with the better front seal , belt , etc . 
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the info guys! Sounds like i have a lot of choices to make. I still have yet to head over and look at this stuff...maybe ill get lucky and the right choice will just present itself to me. Im kind of leaning toward a carb, just seems more simple...not having to mess with adapting the engine harness. On the other hand if i can figure out all the wiring id save money not having to buy a carb and intake...
On another note im gonna assume the trucks and engines are all auto..i want to keep my 4 speed..so id have to seek out a flywheel..
 

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why is #4 full of oil , is my only thought . 
 

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Number 4 full of oil  :eek:

I would also agree the valve seal has to be completely gone on cylinder 4, only other way oil could get in their is a cracked head.  And I mean cracked.  This thing probably has never had anything drastic done to it for it being a teen.  It probably has sit long enough to degrade the seals, ie oil not getting to them for a long period to  keep them lubricated and not dry out.  If it was something on the bottom end like piston rings, wouldn't make sense because the oil in theory would drain back down the hole.  Are you getting smoke/black oil out of the exhaust?  If its filling like that it should be going out the exhaust valve at least in some way shape or form.  Something crazy is going on in that cylinder. 

How is your oil pressure?

Neil
 

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so full of oil you couldn't do a compression test ? so if I assume its a dead cylinder I think the compression numbers are bad especially #4 . 1 bad one is all it takes .
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes this truck sat over 10 years with a fresh rebuild according to the po. It smokes out the passenger pipe, valve cover and dip stick tube. I did the test warm and dry. The oil pressure is 80psi. I didnt test #4 as i wasnt sure what the oil would do to my tester. Please explain bad compression numbers when one cylinder is dead. Bad like inaccurate? Like maybe i should fix the valve seal issue and retest it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Surprising thing is it actually starts right up and runs decent aside from the dead hole. #4 piston looked really clean too from what i could see through the plug hole.. Also when i had the intake off it all looked real clean and new.
 

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o.k. now I'm understanding you a little more . No problem , you cranked the engine over with ALL the plugs out , and the throttle blocked open , so if the #4 was FULL of oil it got pushed out , go ahead and use your tester on it , its designed to take oil/gas vapors with out harm . Here's what I'd do with it , I'd change oil and filter and  run it , after 500 moles I'd again do oil + filter  change .. some folks like myself will pour oil into a motors cylinders if we know its going to sit , may be that's what your dealing with , the psi readings you did post are ok for now , I'd run it a few thousand miles , then recheck compression on ALL 8 . post those numbers up .... :)
 

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I would also take a good look at the wire and plug for the #4 cyl, make sure spark is getting to the plug. You said the test was warm, I would expect the oil to be pretty much burned off. Unburned oil could be because that cyl is not firing.

Ive seen valve seals cause smoke, and even oily plugs, but not one cyl with lots of oil.
 
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