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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I HAVE NOTICED THAT A FEW OF YOU WANT TO KNOW HOW TO LOWER YOR TRUCK. WELL I HAVE A FEW TRICKS THAT I HAVE USED ON ALL THREE OF MY TRUCKS AND THOUGHT I WOULD SHARE THEM WITH YOU. TO DO THE FRONT YOU BELIEVE UNTIL YOU LOOK AT A PAIR, BUT I USE 1 TON TRUCK LOWER CONTROL ARM AND THE 1 TON COIL SPRINGS. THE REASON FOR THESE LOWER CONTROL ARMS IS THAT THEY HAVE ABOUT A 2 &1/2" SPRING POCKET THIS LOWERS THE TRUCK ABOUT 4 & 1/2". TO PUT THESE CONTROL ARMS ON YOU WILL HAVE TO DRILL THE MOUNT WHERE THE CONTROL ARM BOLTS TO THE FRAME AND USE THE BOLT FROM THE 1 TON TRUCK . YOU WILL ALSO HAVE TO CUT THE MOUNT WHERE YOUR BUMP STOP BOLTS TO ABOUT AN INCH & WELD A STEEL PLATE TO THE REST OF THE MOUNT AND PUT ON A FLAT SNUBBER. YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT BALL JOINTS. THE BALL JOINTS FROM THE 1 TON CONTROL FITS IN THE HALF TO SPINDLE. IF YOU WANT TO GO AN IN LOWER USE THE STOCK SPRING FROM THE HALF TON. BUT, I DO RECOMEND THAT IF YOU DO USE THESE CONTROL ARMS THAT YOU ADD SOME BRACING TO THE LOWER CONTROL ARM. THE BRACING KEEPS THE CONTROL ARM FROM FOLDING IF YOU TEND TO BOTTOM OUT. YOU CAN DO THIS IN A FEW HOURS ON A WEEKEND. THE REAR IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD EITHER FLIP IT OR USE DROP SHACKLES FOR A CHEVY TRUCK & PULL LEAF SPRINGS. I HAVE DONE BOTH AND HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH EITHER. IF I EVER DO THIS DROP TO A DODGE TRUCK AGAIN I WILL TAKE PICTURES & POST THEM.
 

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Hey man good info but next time don't use the CAPS LOCK !!!! You trying to scream out about it ? Thanx for the post and will make a good FAQ . Will see if we can put your info therre after awhile once the FAQ is back and going again .

bt83rc
 

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VERY interesting! Thank you very much for the info.

I bought some Chisholm drop coils from a friend for up front and I just did a flip out back. I'm looking to really slam this pig.

I cut 1/2 of a coil off of the drop springs already and I was just about to go cut them down more because the back is lower than the front right now. I'm kind of concearned about getting a worse ride from cutting down the springs anymore. It'll only be for a few months though because I'm planning on bagging it in May and deeper spring pockets don't have much of an advantage when it comes to ease of air bag installation.

That is definately a great tip though and is a HECK of a lot less expensive than the $250 or so that Chisholm charges for pretty much the same product.

do you have any pics of your truck or any of the ones you've dropped. If you do please post them. I'd like to check them out.

This is my pig. I've just started on her. I have a few more things planned. I just want to make it a clean, fun daily driver that can still tow my slammed Nissan to shows.

 

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Replying to this partially to keep it alive. I had a few questions. I know that we have two threads going here that are similar. But I am still unsure of which model year we are talking about that is a direct replacement for the 1/2 ton pickups?

M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the control arms from any year one ton will work on any year half ton. the control arms that i used came from mid 80's one ton & put on my 70's model truck.
 

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What do you mean by requiring added bracing to the control arms? My truck has the strut rods welded to the lower control arms that locate the arm longitudinally in the vehicle. Wouldn't I have to either cut that strut rod off and weld it onto the 1-ton one or would the 1-ton LCA come with its own strut rod that will bolt into my existing strut rod mount? Is that the bracing you speak of or is there something else?

I've heard of people using 1-ton coil springs to lift their trucks on the 94+ 4wd Rams. How much total drop does the combination of 1-ton LCAs and 1-ton coils give you? I'd imagine the 1-ton coils are significantly stiffer than the 1/2's right? If so, that's definitely what I want to do...there isn't such a thing as too stiff IMHO.
 

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the lower control arms from a 1 ton, would lower your truck if you only use the 1/2 ton springs. my guess is that the 1 ton springs are taller and that't why you'd need the recessed spring pocket, otherwise, they'd be an inch or two taller than if they used 1/2 ton parts. what about 3/4 tons? they'd have hard springs but 1/2 ton size. if you want really soft, go with springs from a short bed 1/2 ton, probably from the 70's, they'd be the softest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ramchargin88 the bracing that i was talking about was to the control arm itself. at the point where it mounts to the frame the control arm is in the shape of a u. this is where i saying to add some bracing if the 1/2 coil was used. in other words box in the control arm on the bottom side to give it added strength.

the reason i say this is from experience. i don't tend to let any grass grow under my feet when i drive.

i had this set up on my truck for the first time and there is this stretch of highway that has a few slight dips in the highway for about 3-4 miles. i was traveling across this stretch at about 80-85 mph. the truck was taking the dips fine it never touched the ground but one time. this one time hit folded the control arm at the mount. i shouldn't say folded, i really don't know how to describe it.

let put it this way the u shape became the shape of the letter I. i was still able to drive the truck the the control arm squeezed together across the bushing sleeve. the bushing was fine the truck rode fine but i didn't trust it that way for very long. so off to the junk yard i went to find another control arm. this time i welded in some plates to strenghten this area of the lower control arm.


hey estwingr i just may take you up on that offer to help with posting pictures. i still trying to the hang of playing with computers.
 

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got this from Cbody...
OK, here goes..........The #'s are the hollander # for the lower control arm..........hope this helps. I think next time I might just snap a digital pic of the info


'72-'91, 1/2 ton........................................# 760
1/3/91-'93 1/2 ton......................................1042

'72-'81 3/4 ton w/3300lb axle........................760
'72-'81 3/4 ton w/4000lb axle........................761
'82-'88 3/4 ton...all.......................................760
'89-'91 3/4 ton w/3300lb axle.........................760
'89-'91 3/4 ton w/4000lb axle.........................761
1/3/91-'93 3/4 ton w/3300 axle.....................1042
1/3/91-'93 3/4 ton w/4000 axle.....................1043

'72-'81 1 ton.....all.......................................761
'82-'88 1 ton w/3300lb axle...........................760
'82-'88 1 ton w/4000lb axle...........................761
'89-'91 1 ton w/3300lb axle...........................760
'89-'91 1 ton w/4000lb axle............................761
1/3/91-'93 1 ton w/3300 axle........................1042
1/3/91-'93 1 ton w/4000 axle........................1043
 

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'72-'91, 1/2 ton........................................# 760
1/3/91-'93 1/2 ton......................................1042

1/3/91-'93 3/4 ton w/3300 axle.....................1042
1/3/91-'93 3/4 ton w/4000 axle.....................1043


'89-'91 1 ton w/3300lb axle...........................760
'89-'91 1 ton w/4000lb axle............................761
1/3/91-'93 1 ton w/3300 axle........................1042
1/3/91-'93 1 ton w/4000 axle........................1043

Looks like the 91-93 rams are out, since they already use the
same size control arm as a 1 ton.
If this is true, a dropped a arm would result in no drop. These Rams were as tall as the duallies and stock 4x4s as well so they need all the help they can get!
 

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Maybe I am not reading this right but it looks like
My 90 half ton is out too but that is what it looks
like to me
'72-'91, 1/2 ton........................................       760
'72-'81 3/4 ton w/3300lb axle........................    760
'89-'91 1 ton w/3300lb axle...........................    760
 

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hey guys.. this sounds like the way to go if your gonna lower your truck.. I had a 86 Dodge D-50 that was lowered with 3" blocks in the rear, and Heated springs in the front..( it would scrape a tennis ball on the highway!! ) whatever you do, don't heat the springs.. really screwes up the ride.. unless you like the bounce bounce feelin..no suspension what so ever in the front.. after about 1 year of driving, went to dealer and got new springs and removed the blocks.. ;D
 

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Kinda curious here. What benifits are there to lowering your truck? I can see maby if your handicapped and need a lower vehicle to get into but other than that I see no point to it. I guess the lowered trucks make good paint scrapers for those annoying speed bumps. Other than being oh so cool, whats the point?
 

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LeatherNuts - you're opening up a can of worms! LOL What purpose is there to lifting a truck? I see TONS of jacked up 4x4's that NEVER get dirty. What's the purpose?

I lower my trucks because I like the way they look and for the fact that when they're done they don't look like anything else on the road. Why do I have to have 14" between my frame and the ground when all I need is 3? When lowered the right way a dropped truck handles better.

For me the WHY boils down to BECAUSE I CAN!

I also love the family aspect of it. I go to lots of truck shows every year and each one is like a big 'ol disfunctional family reunion. The trucks are great but it basically just gives us a reason to hang out, drink some beer and have a great time.

Taz - I hear ya on the heated coils. I had an '89 Mighty Max with dropped spindles and one coil cut off up front. Out back I ran a monoleaf with 4" drop blocks and air shocks. It rode like ass but looked hella cool. Then again it never rode all that nice stock.

 

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LoFrontier said:
LeatherNuts - you're opening up a can of worms! LOL What purpose is there to lifting a truck? I see TONS of jacked up 4x4's that NEVER get dirty. What's the purpose?

I also love the family aspect of it. I go to lots of truck shows every year and each one is like a big 'ol disfunctional family reunion. The trucks are great but it basically just gives us a reason to hang out, drink some beer and have a great time.
Many, NOT MOST, lift trucks for off roading clearance. Your right about many 4X4s never getting dirty though. Getting stuck in a friends 4x2 we encountered a Jeep Grand Cherokee owner that refuesed to pull us out cuz he didnt want to damage his paint or possibly suspension. ::)

If lowering the truck gives you an opportunity to get together with the familia and have some good times, than its good to go. I prefer to be up high when muddin but thats me preference. Keep em scraping..... :D
 

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I want to lower my truck but at the same time increase handling ability. I was wondering if Eibach makes springs for a 99 Dodge Dakota. And can you even buy some sort of performance springs for a truck with leaf springs? Forgive me if this is a stupid question but I'm still learning, ;D
Thanks!
 

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belltech or djm will help you the dakota is one of the number one trucks to lower these days anti sway bars will help after the drop but then i am still learning too
 
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