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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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Thats a lot of extra work lifting the body and cutting the wheel wells, that's for sure. He could get the springs de-arced I suppose but then that would be a waste of money buying the lift springs but it still won't fix the front though. To get long coil springs up front to level it out would require lots of modification. Yes, I would exchange the rear leafs for stock replacements then.
 
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Lots of good advice given here. Keep in mind, dropping the rear end of the spring with an extended shackle will only drop the rear of the vehicle by 1/.2 the extra length of the shackle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Here is all the photos you could think you would want @RXT , & yes that post is what I have seen / read several times over. I guess, I might be doing my 4X4 swap sooner than I had wanted. @LOVETHE80s has a set of axles I'm in talks with about getting. Plus, with Jungle sells everything I need minus 1 part with is the upper mounting for the shock. Then maybe the top pad / spacer "Spring Plate Clip", the parts book calls it) thing for the front leaf springs. Then Drill holes, Cut the front strut mounts, upper & lower control arms off, Some grade 8 to Grade 9 Hardware. then done. besides front leaf springs shocks, & maybe a pitman arm. But That's what it seems to be from what I'm looking at. Only big difference I see is the sub frame when I look at the drawings in my parts book. all there seems to be ares slight differences from RWD vs 4X4 when comes to frame related stuff.

why I say the front is max is, I put in new 2 inch shocks with that spacer. If I extend it more, it just ride on the bump stop the whole time. I forgot to get photos of the new vs old coils springs & how I got the assemble outside of the truck. I'll have to do that tomorrow after work.

Also, can not stress enough! Thank you for all the help ,feed back & Ideas!

Nothing but photos below.

Rear:

Bicycle tire Tire Automotive tire Wheel Tread



Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Hood


Front End:

Tire Aircraft Automotive tire Tread Wheel


Lowest point

Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Tread


Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Tread


Automotive tire Rim Bumper Gas Automotive exterior


Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Automotive tire


Highest point with it being about 1 inch higher, since being off of the jacks stand to get full vehicle weight.

Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle


Vehicle Wheel Automotive tire Tire Tread


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Sub Frame, Control Arms, & frame photos. "Generally taken for the sub frame drop Idea & 4x4 swap. No particular order" Bottom of sub frame is bolted on, while the upper is riveted on.

Automotive tire Grey Rim Darkness Metal


Automotive tire Automotive exterior Vehicle Motor vehicle Bumper


Wood Metal Fish Art Natural material


Bumper Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Hood Gas


Gas Auto part Rim Nut Automotive tire


Automotive tire Automotive exterior Fender Bumper Auto part


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle brake Fender Automotive exterior


Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper


Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire


Found that other bump stop photo with the arms under load: "You can see not too much space"

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Driver Side:

I have no Idea what happened to this lower control arm. I know I didn't hit anything.

Automotive tire Hood Bumper Water Motor vehicle


Automotive tire Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Bumper


Automotive tire Gas Auto part Automotive wheel system Rim


Automotive tire Tire Wheel Rim Tread


Automotive tire Grey Automotive exterior Rim Automotive design


Hood Automotive tire Wood Water Bumper


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Black Tread Tire


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Rim Vehicle


Tire Dry Fit: "Note 33s are 4.10" Inches bigger that stock size. with that being said the wheel sits lower behind it"

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Automotive tire


sorry, got stuck talking to my neighbor. Hence the sun went down and got a bit dark out side.

Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Car Vehicle
 

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I guess, I might be doing my 4X4 swap sooner than I had wanted. @LOVETHE80s has a set of axles I'm in talks with about getting. Plus, with Jungle sells everything I need minus 1 part with is the upper mounting for the shock. Then maybe the top pad / spacer "Spring Plate Clip", the parts book calls it) thing for the front leaf springs. Then Drill holes, Cut the front strut mounts, upper & lower control arms off, Some grade 8 to Grade 9 Hardware. then done. besides front leaf springs shocks, & maybe a pitman arm. But That's what it seems to be from what I'm looking at. Only big difference I see is the sub frame when I look at the drawings in my parts book. all there seems to be ares slight differences from RWD vs 4X4 when comes to frame related stuff.
You do not want to try converting a 2wd frame to 4wd. Just find a 4wd frame, and swap the body over. You need the front spring mounts,the rear shackle mounts, the engine crossmember, the trans crossmember, a whole lot of drilling, and bolting. You will need a 4wd frame to get the measurements from to do the drilling. The trans crossmember needs holes drilled in the top and bottom flange of the frame rail, much easier to do with the body off. Swapping frames is not easy, but much easier then changing the frame from 2 to 4wd. I have done both, well still doing the 4wd conversion. Now, I wish I had just kept it 2wd.

The RC was done in a weekend, two weekends if you count removing the old RC from the 4wd frame, and cleaning the frame up. the clubcab is going on 6 years. Hopefully I will finish it this summer.


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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Welp, after thinking more on it & reviewing my situation with consul. The best, cheepest, & fastest method would to do what Jungle said & grab new leaf springs from SD. Then if still too low, throw some blocks under the leaf springs.

Again! Thank you everyone! I hope this post helps other people & their wild lift Ideas!

I'll do an update once things are fixed!
 

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Whatcha gonna do about the front??

Ed
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Whatcha gonna do about the front??

Ed
Keep pushing forward on the driver side with the current set up (Since I haven't finished it yet.) I'm not removing the spacer from the passenger side. That was a major pain in the ass to do. Like I said took me two days to rebuild in. If for some reason 33s don't quite fit. Ill get the body lift. but from what I researched & been told. 33s should fit just fine once the suspension has been rebuilt with the lift per the guide for the front end.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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You're going to have to get your truck as high as a stock W150 sits if you want any chance of running 33's with no rubbing. The rear shouldn't be a problem with the lift springs but the front is still going to be a challenge to get it up high enough to clear the tires so they can turn. As mentioned you're going to have to cut a ton of metal out of your fenders which will completely change the look of your truck..
 

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My recommendation, add the body lift. While the 33鈥 should fit, when static. Once that suspension begins to flex, you鈥檒l probably get some rub. That鈥檚 because all you鈥檝e done when you added the spacers was to change the altitude, wheel travel will still be the same. Unless you limit up travel with a lower bump stop, the suspension will still compress the same amount. A body lift will be the only way to make space in the fenders for those bigger tires when the suspension is fully stuffed. or you鈥檒l have to cut the fenders

Ed
 
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
My recommendation, add the body lift. While the 33鈥 should fit, when static. Once that suspension begins to flex, you鈥檒l probably get some rub. That鈥檚 because all you鈥檝e done when you added the spacers was to change the altitude, wheel travel will still be the same. Unless you limit up travel with a lower bump stop, the suspension will still compress the same amount. A body lift will be the only way to make space in the fenders for those bigger tires when the suspension is fully stuffed. or you鈥檒l have to cut the fenders

Ed
Got a good place for spacers?
 

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Got a good place for spacers?
Are you looking for actual ground clearance, or just trying to clear larger tires to make it "look" like a 4x4? What are you going to be using a lifted 2wd for?
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Are you looking for actual ground clearance, or just trying to clear larger tires to make it "look" like a 4x4? What are you going to be using a lifted 2wd for?
Well, I daily drive this thing. So, its all about functionality to start & enough to clear the 33s if I find issues. Once the tires are installed.

I found these are LMC: 3" Body Lift Kit 鈥 Makes Room for Larger Tires
 

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Got a good place for spacers?
Not really. But what I've done before was, I'd piece one together. If you happen to have a 4x4 shop near you, or any shop that works on trucks, they might have some left over blocks. The last time I did this, I bought the blocks from a 4x4/Jeep shop for $5 a piece, then bought grade 8 hardware from one of the big box stores.

If you hunt around, you could do it even cheaper. You might even find someone willing to give you the block for free. Then all you need is the hardware.

Ed
 
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Well, I daily drive this thing. So, its all about functionality to start & enough to clear the 33s if I find issues. Once the tires are installed.

I found these are LMC: 3" Body Lift Kit 鈥 Makes Room for Larger Tires
I bought a 77 2WD a few years ago. It had a 3" body lift on it. I was running 31 x 10.5's. with stock suspension. I'm not sure about all that witchcraft you got going on right now, but I know that just the body lift will not clear 33's. I took the body lift off and now I want to drop it another 3".

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