[HOBO]

So, Yeah I fucked up. I took it at face value 4" leave spring = 4" inch of lift. Yeah wrong answer. With the front end being maxed out with lift. There is no way I can get more out of it. So, that means I need a rear shackle that allows me to drop the rear end about 3.25 - 4.50" Ish to level the truck out. That's my only Idea & asking @jungle to fab one for me since I do not have the equipment. Does, anyone else have any other Ideas? I have attached Photos below for reference & a measurement chart for my math to be doubled checked.

Thanks In advanced!

Leaf Springs: Sky Jacker DR40S Soft Rides 52"X 2.50" (New)

Shackles: Factory (Rebuilt with Poly Bushings)

Leaf Spring Bolts: Factory 5/8"-18X3.88"

--- After Ride Hight Chart ---

“NOTE: Ground was NOT the most level. I have Lifted & new suspension, with bald / ultra-worn factory sized tires. With the Driver side not done yet.”​

Line Item:​	Name:​	1st Measurement​	2nd Measurement​	3rd Measurement​
1:​	Front Passenger​	16.00”​	19.75”​	5.00”​
2:​	Rear Passenger​	19.75”​	25.50”​	10.50”​
3:​	Differences​	3.75”​	5.75”​	5.50”​
4:​	Totals​	35.75”​	45.25”​	15.50”​
5:​	Averages​	17.875”​	22.625”​	7.75”​
6:​	All Averages Combined​	16.08​

​

--- Close Comparison Lift Hight Chart ---

“NOTE: Ground was NOT the most level.”​

Line Item:​	Name:​	1st Measurement​	2nd Measurement​	3rd Measurement​
1:​	Front Passenger (Before)​	13”​	16.625”​	3”​
2:​	Front Passenger (After)​	16.00”​	19.75”​	5.00”​
3:​	Front Passenger Difference:​	3”​	3.125”​	2”​
4:​	Rear Passenger (Before)​	13.375”​	18.375”​	4”​
5:​	Rear Passenger (After)​	19.75”​	25.50”​	10.50”​
6:​	Rear Passenger Difference:​	6.375”​	7.125”​	6.50”​
7:​	Rear needs to come down by:​	3.375”​	4”​	4.50​
8:​	Front Difference Averaged:​	2.70”​
9:​	Rear Difference Averaged:​	3.95”​

 

[HOBO]

Update: I found this originally on summit racing. They supposed to fit on 2.5 inch wide leaf springs. I just do not know what the bolt ID is. but for $66.23 its worth a try. if don't fit. Easy return though amazon. But still looking for Ideas & solutions.

Amazon.com: Belltech 6401 Shackle Kit : Automotive

Buy Belltech 6401 Shackle Kit: Shackles & Parts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[scatpack_69]

Yep, we live in a world where advertised lift isn’t actual lift.

We went through this with the boys ‘86 W150. It came with the front lifted and rear stock. Got a part number off the springs and it was a Superlift 4”. So, logically, we ordered a 4” block for the rear to level…didn’t even tear truck apart because it clearly wasn’t enough. 5” block isn’t level. Superlift 4” lift is a 6” rear lift

 

[jungle]

Are they new springs in the rear? Are they stock height or lift springs?
Jim

 

[jungle]

They look to be a 4 to 6" lift spring. why not use a stock replacement spring from say SD truck springs.

 

[Ruderunner]

If those shackles are the same brand I used, they should work. Can't recall what mine were.

You can also remove the shortest leaf from the packs and see where you are.

 

[RXT]

This is kinda the reason why I disagreed with you in your post about ride height measurements.

As for adding lift, It’s been my experience that if you want a given ride height from a lift, you can’t just go by the manufacturer’s advertised lift, you have to plan it. You also want to ask questions about any particular lift, such as: does it include blocks?

Now as for your situation, I really didn’t look at what you had, and it was only in this post that I realized that you were trying to lift a two wheel drive. The issue I see is the front lift is no where near enough to match the rear lift. It looks like you used a 2” leveling block to raise the front. There is a “2wd lift“ in the How-to section showing how to lift a 2wd front up to 6” but personally, I wouldn’t try to go that high on an IFS.

As for suggestions. First thing is you’re going to have to experiment. You might try installing another 1 or 2” leveling block on top of the springs, then check the suspension for bind, by cycling it. If it works, have it realigned. If another block or spacer doesn’t work, lower the rear.

What does it have for blocks? Did that lift use blocks? If it does, remove them. If not, you may want to try a longer shackle.

You can still obtain 4” of lift by adding a 2” body lift.

on the redish neck side, you could just run larger tires on the rear and smaller up front. Yes the truck will still have that rake, but you can rock it

Ed

 

[Dboys.net]

I.d do a spring under and it's real easy

 

[Dboys.net]

either Napa or a trailer supply and get a set of spring perches .flip the axle and weld them on ( set pinion angle first)

 

[MyWorkInProgress]

either Napa or a trailer supply and get a set of spring perches .flip the axle and weld them on ( set pinion angle first)

I’m not trying to hijack the thread here but what are the benefits of doing a axle flip over shackles? I’ve been thinking of taking the rake out of my truck as well.

 

[Dboys.net]

I’m not trying to hijack the thread here but what are the benefits of doing a axle flip over shackles? I’ve been thinking of taking the rake out of my truck as well.

there is only room for a 3 inch longer shackle which translates too a inch and a half drop at the axle , which isn,t much

 

[Canadian country boy]

A Skyjacker DR40s is a 4" LIFT spring!

So, Yeah I fucked up. I took it at face value 4" leave spring = 4" inch of lift. Yeah wrong answer. With the front end being maxed out with lift. There is no way I can get more out of it. So, that means I need a rear shackle that allows me to drop the rear end about 3.25 - 4.50" Ish to level the truck out. That's my only Idea & asking @jungle to fab one for me since I do not have the equipment. Does, anyone else have any other Ideas? I have attached Photos below for reference & a measurement chart for my math to be doubled checked.

Thanks In advanced!

Leaf Springs: Sky Jacker DR40S Soft Rides 52"X 2.50" (New)

Shackles: Factory (Rebuilt with Poly Bushings)

Leaf Spring Bolts: Factory 5/8"-18X3.88"

View attachment 637544

View attachment 637545

View attachment 637546

View attachment 637547

View attachment 637551

View attachment 637548

--- After Ride Hight Chart ---

“NOTE: Ground was NOT the most level. I have Lifted & new suspension, with bald / ultra-worn factory sized tires. With the Driver side not done yet.”​

Line Item:​	Name:​	1st Measurement​	2nd Measurement​	3rd Measurement​
1:​	Front Passenger​	16.00”​	19.75”​	5.00”​
2:​	Rear Passenger​	19.75”​	25.50”​	10.50”​
3:​	Differences​	3.75”​	5.75”​	5.50”​
4:​	Totals​	35.75”​	45.25”​	15.50”​
5:​	Averages​	17.875”​	22.625”​	7.75”​
6:​	All Averages Combined​	16.08​

​

View attachment 637549

--- Close Comparison Lift Hight Chart ---

“NOTE: Ground was NOT the most level.”​

Line Item:​	Name:​	1st Measurement​	2nd Measurement​	3rd Measurement​
1:​	Front Passenger (Before)​	13”​	16.625”​	3”​
2:​	Front Passenger (After)​	16.00”​	19.75”​	5.00”​
3:​	Front Passenger Difference:​	3”​	3.125”​	2”​
4:​	Rear Passenger (Before)​	13.375”​	18.375”​	4”​
5:​	Rear Passenger (After)​	19.75”​	25.50”​	10.50”​
6:​	Rear Passenger Difference:​	6.375”​	7.125”​	6.50”​
7:​	Rear needs to come down by:​	3.375”​	4”​	4.50​
8:​	Front Difference Averaged:​	2.70”​
9:​	Rear Difference Averaged:​	3.95”​

That look was HOT in the 70's! Lol

 

[Canadian country boy]

The Skyjacker DR40S is a LIFT spring. If you put stock replacement springs in your RC like what Jungle said to do and it will fix that 70's look. 👍

 

[Mopar572]

I’m confused? You are trying to lift this thing right? How much lift did you get in the front? Skyjacker makes a 2.5” lift spring…or add some leafs to your factory packs to level it out. there’s no way you’re going to lift a 2wd ramcharger 4” in the front so why did you purchase 4” lift rear springs?

 

[Canadian country boy]

I’m confused? You are trying to lift this thing right? How much lift did you get in the front? Skyjacker makes a 2.5” lift spring…or add some leafs to your factory packs to level it out. there’s no way you’re going to lift a 2wd ramcharger 4” in the front so why did you purchase 4” lift rear springs?

Skyjacker doesn't actually make a 2.5" lift spring, what Skyjacker does is they sell the DR40S 4 inch lift spring to be used without the factory lift blocks which in turn gives you a 2.5" lift overall approximately.

 

[HOBO]

Thank you guys for all your support, help, & feed back! I'll answer everyone in this post. Since I had more time to think on things & sleep on it. lol I was exhausted when I wrote this. I need to bring the rear down (3.75" Inches) to make it level with the font end "Using the 1st Ride Hight Measurement". Here are some more photos I should have added in the original post last night.

I still think, the drop shackle is the way to go. Most Cost effective & the least pain in the ass to install. It took me two days to rip apart & rebuild the passenger front side. One day to pull it apart & a day to put it back together. I really Don't want to do that again.

Axle: Chrysler 8.25" with 3.55 Gearing "Unknow Spline Count"

Shackle with Tape Measure: "I couldn't hold the Camera & hold the tape Measure at the center of the bolt at the same time. But Center of bolt to center of bolt is 4 Inches."

Leaf Spring Mount up:

Front Side of Leaf Spring:

Back Side of Leaf Spring:

Are they new springs in the rear? Are they stock height or lift springs?
Jim

Yes Brand New Skyjacker DR40S 4 Inch Leaf Springs. I swore you made an adjustable shackle. That's why I reached out. Maybe it was on the old site before the switch. According the CCB they are true 4 inch leaf springs. As he posted below you. He, has realized why I bought them. Based on Skyjackers website the sell a 2.5 inch Lift kit for 4X4. So I bought everything for that, except for front leaf springs. Since I could do the front in with just a spacer. Then be good to go. I just wasn't expecting them to be so high up. lol

This is kinda the reason why I disagreed with you in your post about ride height measurements.

As for adding lift, It’s been my experience that if you want a given ride height from a lift, you can’t just go by the manufacturer’s advertised lift, you have to plan it. You also want to ask questions about any particular lift, such as: does it include blocks?

Now as for your situation, I really didn’t look at what you had, and it was only in this post that I realized that you were trying to lift a two wheel drive. The issue I see is the front lift is no where near enough to match the rear lift. It looks like you used a 2” leveling block to raise the front. There is a “2wd lift“ in the How-to section showing how to lift a 2wd front up to 6” but personally, I wouldn’t try to go that high on an IFS.

As for suggestions. First thing is you’re going to have to experiment. You might try installing another 1 or 2” leveling block on top of the springs, then check the suspension for bind, by cycling it. If it works, have it realigned. If another block or spacer doesn’t work, lower the rear.

What does it have for blocks? Did that lift use blocks? If it does, remove them. If not, you may want to try a longer shackle.

You can still obtain 4” of lift by adding a 2” body lift.

on the redish neck side, you could just run larger tires on the rear and smaller up front. Yes the truck will still have that rake, but you can rock it

Ed

Yes, Ed Once again the measurements are subjective. But Still have to quantify what I'm doing some how. lol But the front is truly maxed out. The only Idea I had is I could by slightly taller front coil springs. I think the moog Coil Springs for a 1st gen Cumming is taller by a little bit, but not 100% sure. Thats how I lift the front since the McBay Performance 1"inch spacer has already netted me 3 Inches. Which is accurate per their lift chart that came with the spacers.

But for the cost of rebuilding my suspension. I could also lift it, gain those perks to. Kill a few birds with one stone. Hence what started all this anyways. leaf springs where so sagged & worn, the truck could bounce up and down on the highway, or bought out hitting small diverts in the road. Might as well be driving a boat.

I could do the tire trick. but its to late for that. I got these sweet Falken WildPeaks AT/3Ws 33X12.5X15"s to put on. Which will add 4.10" Inches of lift as well. getting me 7.10 Inches in the front using the 1st Ride Hight Measurement. Again, Thank you! I apricate you challenging me! It helps me understand all this much better. Since I jumped into it with as much as I could prepare for it. As Lan Watts has once said. Some times to make sense of change. one must just in and join the dance.

either Napa or a trailer supply and get a set of spring perches .flip the axle and weld them on (set pinion angle first)

Yeah, as much as I'd like to to that. I don't think my neighborhood HOA, or the house I rent would like my welding out front. lol Noor i'm I set up or currently equipped to do that. Its currently cost prohibit at this time. Now, do get me wrong. I'm capable of doing that. One day I will be set up & able to do those advance things. Im stuck with a hammer, a small blow torch (MAP or Propane Gas), drill press, drill & a grinder.

Skyjacker doesn't actually make a 2.5" lift spring, what Skyjacker does is they sell the DR40S 4 inch lift spring to be used without the factory lift blocks which in turn gives you a 2.5" lift overall approximately.

Right on, that was my though process basically. Buy the kit minus the front leaf springs, then put some front end spacer. then done.

 

[RXT]

Yes, Ed Once again the measurements are subjective. But Still have to quantify what I'm doing some how. lol.

I got no issue with you wanting to make measurements to quantify your decisions.

But the front is truly maxed out.

This is the How to article, I was referring to. I think you posted this elsewhere;

Lifting the Front of a 2wd Dodge Ramcharger or Truck By...

Submitted By: malebiker1 Date: February 10, 2009, 02:15:42 AM Views: 8880 Lifting the Front of a 2wd Dodge Ramcharger - malebiker1 step 2: Place a reliable jack under lower control arm. step 3: Pop tierod and upper ball joint...

www.ramchargercentral.com

When you say, maxed out, what do you mean? Whats maxed out? How about a few photos?

BTW, I'm of the opinion that there could be other options to eke out another inch or two from the front end, but it's going to require welding or possibly swapping....at least in simple terms. If you have to spend a lot more to gain only a few inches, you'll be better off converting to 4wd.

The only Idea I had is I could by slightly taller front coil springs. I think the moog Coil Springs for a 1st gen Cumming is taller by a little bit, but not 100% sure.

They also might not be taller.... If I recall correctly, the 2wd 3/4 and one ton trucks ride a bit taller, not by the springs, but because the coil spring pockets stamped into the lower control arm are a bit shallower. But no, I don't know what the springs contributed in ride height

Thats how I lift the front since the McBay Performance 1"inch spacer has already netted me 3 Inches. Which is accurate per their lift chart that came with the spacers.

Assuming that the coil springs and the spacers gave you 3+ inches of lift, there is one thing you may have missed. You are starting with a 2wd platform. And they are about 1 to 2 inches lower than the equivalent factory stock 4x4. So right off the bat, you need to raise the front a couple of inches just to match a 4x4. That means if you wanted your truck to have a 4 inch lift, comparing it to a 4x4, you really need about 6 inches of lift.

The rear is a somewhat different story. Compared to the 4x4s, the 2wd rear ends ride lower because the factory leaves out the blocks. Many of your aftermarket suspension lift manufacturers use different ways to lift the rear to a specific ride height. Some are designed without a block, so the springs have to be highly arched to accommodate the amount of lift without the blocks, which is what I think you ordered. This will end up giving you more like 6 inches of lift, because remember, you are starting with a 2wd which is made about 2 inches lower than the 4x4 models. On a 4x4 you would had netted 4 inches of lift.

But for the cost of rebuilding my suspension. I could also lift it, gain those perks to. Kill a few birds with one stone. Hence what started all this anyways. leaf springs where so sagged & worn, the truck could bounce up and down on the highway, or bought out hitting small diverts in the road. Might as well be driving a boat.

You might end up with a rather stiff ride. The Cummins specific coils are no doubt thicker to support that 1000lb engine. And highly arched rear leaves aren't going to be too much better.

Ed

 

[kilqc]

That much rear shackle will put your "dick on the dirt" ( pinion angle ) and you will still need spring perches to fix it or a shit load of pinion angle shims

 

[Canadian country boy]

Thank you guys for all your support, help, & feed back! I'll answer everyone in this post. Since I had more time to think on things & sleep on it. lol I was exhausted when I wrote this. I need to bring the rear down (3.75" Inches) to make it level with the font end "Using the 1st Ride Hight Measurement". Here are some more photos I should have added in the original post last night.

I still think, the drop shackle is the way to go. Most Cost effective & the least pain in the ass to install. It took me two days to rip apart & rebuild the passenger front side. One day to pull it apart & a day to put it back together. I really Don't want to do that again.

Axle: Chrysler 8.25" with 3.55 Gearing "Unknow Spline Count"

Shackle with Tape Measure: "I couldn't hold the Camera & hold the tape Measure at the center of the bolt at the same time. But Center of bolt to center of bolt is 4 Inches."

View attachment 637579

Leaf Spring Mount up:

Front Side of Leaf Spring:

View attachment 637578

Back Side of Leaf Spring:

View attachment 637577



Yes Brand New Skyjacker DR40S 4 Inch Leaf Springs. I swore you made an adjustable shackle. That's why I reached out. Maybe it was on the old site before the switch. According the CCB they are true 4 inch leaf springs. As he posted below you. He, has realized why I bought them. Based on Skyjackers website the sell a 2.5 inch Lift kit for 4X4. So I bought everything for that, except for front leaf springs. Since I could do the front in with just a spacer. Then be good to go. I just wasn't expecting them to be so high up. lol



Yes, Ed Once again the measurements are subjective. But Still have to quantify what I'm doing some how. lol But the front is truly maxed out. The only Idea I had is I could by slightly taller front coil springs. I think the moog Coil Springs for a 1st gen Cumming is taller by a little bit, but not 100% sure. Thats how I lift the front since the McBay Performance 1"inch spacer has already netted me 3 Inches. Which is accurate per their lift chart that came with the spacers.

But for the cost of rebuilding my suspension. I could also lift it, gain those perks to. Kill a few birds with one stone. Hence what started all this anyways. leaf springs where so sagged & worn, the truck could bounce up and down on the highway, or bought out hitting small diverts in the road. Might as well be driving a boat.

I could do the tire trick. but its to late for that. I got these sweet Falken WildPeaks AT/3Ws 33X12.5X15"s to put on. Which will add 4.10" Inches of lift as well. getting me 7.10 Inches in the front using the 1st Ride Hight Measurement. Again, Thank you! I apricate you challenging me! It helps me understand all this much better. Since I jumped into it with as much as I could prepare for it. As Lan Watts has once said. Some times to make sense of change. one must just in and join the dance.

View attachment 637580

View attachment 637581



Yeah, as much as I'd like to to that. I don't think my neighborhood HOA, or the house I rent would like my welding out front. lol Noor i'm I set up or currently equipped to do that. Its currently cost prohibit at this time. Now, do get me wrong. I'm capable of doing that. One day I will be set up & able to do those advance things. Im stuck with a hammer, a small blow torch (MAP or Propane Gas), drill press, drill & a grinder.



Right on, that was my though process basically. Buy the kit minus the front leaf springs, then put some front end spacer. then done.

If you want to get some extra lift from your Ramcharger then your best bet is to put the stock leafs back in and go with lift blocks instead. That way it will match the front better. I'm sorry to break the news to you but you will never get 33's under a 2wd Ramcharger - not without any heavy modifications. If you want more height then sell your 2wd and buy a 4wd. 👍

 

[RXT]

Actually CCB, HOBO could get 33s to fit without too much money. He will need to install a 3 inch body lift and he could also trim the fenders if necessary.

I might agree with you to put the old springs back in, but the OP did mention that the springs were worn out. He might be able to contact whomever he bought the springs from and see if he can exchange them.

HOBO, a few years ago, I was building a Ramcharger with a ton of lift. To get there, I did a shackle flip on the rear. To get additional height, I installed a pair of Belltech 6100 3" drop shackles.
Anyway, I still have the shackles (Now under my Dakota) They measure from bolt center to bolt center at 7.5 inches. These would lower your rear suspension by 1.5 inches. The only way to drop it more while keeping the springs is if you cut off the hanger brackets, then drill all new mounting holes an inch above the existing ones, then bolt them back on. Along with the shackles, this would drop it by about 2.5 inches. After that, you can remove the shorter leaves which should bring it down another 1/2 inch or so.

I would guess that there will still be a rake, but not as extreme as what you have now. I still believe there is a possibility to bring the front up a bit more. But it will take some experimentation and engineering. The main problem with with lifting a stock IFS is, you reach a point when the upper ball joints begin to bind. There are three methods to fix this. First are longer spindles. Unfortunately there are no lift spindles for a RC. There has been talk about retrofitting spindles from another truck but as far as I know, nothing out there matches. In the absence of longer or taller spindles, there are ball joint spacers. Of course, there are none for a RC or D150. But there are some for other truck brands. It might be possible to find a spacer that comes close to what you need and adapt them to the upper control arms. As for the ball joints binding, there are some options. Uniballs or Delta joints allow more angle, but again, there aren't units for the D150 or RC. Which means you'll have to experiment and adapt.

There is also a somewhat more extreme approach -not something for the faint of heart. Looking at the 2wd frame, if I recall correctly, the main cross member is slung under the frame rails and is riveted to the rails. This cross member also carries the lower control arms and the spring pockets. There are also stampings which carry the upper control arms riveted to each side of the frame. My belief is the cross member can be separated from the frame rails, then a length of 2x2 square tubing can be welded to the underside of the frame rails where the cross member resided. Then the cross member can be either welded or bolted back under the frame rails, with the 2x2 acting as a spacer. You would then have to separate the stampings from the frame, and drill new holes two inches lower on the frame, then bolt them back on. The engine will be sitting lower in the frame, but consider this as lowering the COG.

Ed