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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok you all know i have been without wheels for a while now and i got to thinking about what i can do to better that situation till i can sell the darts.... got to thinkin bout how hte 71 is fouling up on me intermitently...

my ? to anyone is.... could it be a combination of the starter relay and the ignition switch that would be causing my stalling no restart problem????

i have taken readings at the coil and its only getting like 5 volts but at the ballast at least one side is getting battery voltage. i have changed out everything else in the ignition system with either new or known good parts so i am a little stumped on this one....

also does anyone know how hard it is to swap out a K frame on a dart???? i want to put my 73 k-frame into my 68 and dont know how to go about it... i will be cutting up the rest of the 73 soon since i cant get anyone to haul it for me.

thanx in advance
 

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well swaping the k-frames is easy. are you switching to disc brakes on the 68? or do you want the spool mount tpye brackets for the 68? there is only 4 bolts that hold the k-frame in, if you remove the t-bars, lower control arms and steering box loose.its easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i want the disk brakes AND the spool type mounts... on the 68 so that sounds easy... now to cut the car u p to gett hte rest of the stuff out i guess....
oh will i also need the prop valve as well???? if so is it interchangeable with the drum brake setup???
 

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Yep, to use the disc brakes on a drum brake car, you'll need to carry over the whole setup, including the master cylinder and the prop. valve. Rear drums will work the same, so no worries there.

Good luck!

JS
 

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In regards to the stall/no start problem, have you tried moving your coil to a location that gets less heat/more air flow? Many stalled/no start problems are coils that overheat, stop producing spark, but work just fine once cooled off again. My $0.02
 

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Also, you mentioned the voltage drop to the coil, it sounded like you thought that was wrong. That's supposed to happen. Full 12v to that coil would quickly burn it up. 12v only duing start, then the ballast resistor drops volts for run. Measure resistance at the coil while cold, then warm it up really good and check again, post the make of coil and what numbers you get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Slanted_Mind said:
In regards to the stall/no start problem, have you tried moving your coil to a location that gets less heat/more air flow? Many stalled/no start problems are coils that overheat, stop producing spark, but work just fine once cooled off again. My $0.02
moved it to the passenger side inner fender so thats been taken care of..... also i realize that its supposed to drop the voltage from 12v but all the way down to 4 and 5 volts??? seems a little low to me but i would have to check another running car to find out... the ACCEL yellow coil i had would over heat bigtime to the p oint i could not even touch it... now withthe MSD coil i put in from the 68 it seems to be running cooler but still having problems with it stalling and not wanting to restart.... i will post the #s when i get them this weekend...
 
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