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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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There isn't much point.  It's easy to add a pull pin to the stock sway bay link instead of the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My end links are partly worn through. When I bought the truck there were no  bushings between the end link and the bar. I have not been able to find a replacement. If anyone has a source of replacement end links, please let me know. I would rather drill holes in a bolt and buy some pins.
Thanks,
Steve
 

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The stock links are basically just a piece of tubing with a threaded rod welded on.  The upper bushings should be easy top retrofit as they are just basic sway bar bushings.  The lower bushings might be harder to replace, but I would guess some sort of polyurethane bushing could be substituted.  The mod for the pin was removing the lower bolt and replacing it with a pin and clip or some sort of tractor link pin.  There used to be a couple posts on it here on RCC, which is where I learned of it.  I thought about doing the mod myself, but when I got my Ramcharger I swapped out the stock axles for my D60s and my D60 spring plates do not have the provision for the sway bar as the donor did not have that option.  So my sway bar has just been hanging around under the Ramcharger since '06, lol.
 

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The top links are available at most parts stores.  You would have to go by size, but  might find the bushing for the bottom, by looking up shock bushings.
 

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The way the links are made, it would be very easy to use a small heim joint and a stud in place of it.  It would be very solid and probably wouldn't last as long, but it would be a workable substitute.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I will keep looking.
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Elwenil said:
The way the links are made, it would be very easy to use a small heim joint and a stud in place of it. It would be very solid and probably wouldn't last as long, but it would be a workable substitute.
I like the Heim joint idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I bought the Jeep kit. After looking at a friends Jeep, I thought it would work with some modification. This will also make the sway bar work with the 4 inch lift. I will post a picture once installed.

I also just looked at the sway bar on my Land Rover, and the end links on it look like they would work for extending the end links, just wouldn't have quick disconnects. And they are cheap on line.
Steve
 

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What model Land Rover?  Post pics if you get it to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Elwenil said:
What model Land Rover? Post pics if you get it to work.
03 Discovery
I'm not going to try the Land Rover part, it just looks like it's long enough to work with the lift, and at Rockauto they are cheap.

Lang rover end link.


Trail Duster end link


I may put in the Jeep link today if I have time. I changed the valve cover gaskets in the Land Rover a few days ago, and have some lingering side effects (Misfire, transmission limp home mode,...) to troubleshoot first.
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I found the time to mock up two possible layouts of the Jeep end link on my Trail Duster.

Option 1: This is my original plan. The bottom bushing washer is not secure. The threaded part od the link is too short for the bushings. I need to find a solution. Either add a tube over the tube, thin nuts, Thinner bushings, weld on a stop, or extend the threads. I don't know if the link is a hollow tube or solid rod.


Option 2: The way it goes in a jeep. There is a bit of an alignment issue. I would have to make a new longer lower mounting pin. This adds a ball joint at the top of the link.



Steve
 

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I think the first option looks like it would work better once the bottom washer or something similar is welded on to give the bushings something to push against.  Initially I wondered how you were going to fit Jeep style disconnects in there but I see you have a lift, which makes a big difference.  The stock links don't really leave much room for what I am used to seeing on Jeeps.  Also, I think to get the full effect of the sway bar, it needs to be level.  On my '72 Charger I built the suspension on I used to swap out the links in the rear to get more or less effect from the bar by angling it up and down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Elwenil said:
I think the first option looks like it would work better once the bottom washer or something similar is welded on to give the bushings something to push against. Initially I wondered how you were going to fit Jeep style disconnects in there but I see you have a lift, which makes a big difference. The stock links don't really leave much room for what I am used to seeing on Jeeps. Also, I think to get the full effect of the sway bar, it needs to be level. On my '72 Charger I built the suspension on I used to swap out the links in the rear to get more or less effect from the bar by angling it up and down.
I just installed the 4 inch Rough country lift. I should have made that clear. I just Figured that I would try and get the benefit of the disconnect while lengthening the links. I am using the Rough country 2.5 inch lift Jeep sway bar disconnect kit.
This is my trucks project page.
https://ramchargercentral.com/projects/77-trail-duster-440-on-going-project-aztrailduster/?all#lastPost
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I installed option 1. I slid some suspension bushing tubes over the link to support the lower bushing washer. This is most likely temporary so I can test the set up.

I think it gave more flex attached. Tested it driving over a two foot drop in to the wash in my yard. It seemed to get better traction.

The bad part of this option is pulling the link off the pin is very difficult. There is not much flex in the bushings that attach the link to the sway bar. I was unable to pull it off, may be with a pry bar.



Steve
 

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AzTrailduster said:
I changed the valve cover gaskets in the Land Rover a few days ago, and have some lingering side effects (Misfire, transmission limp home mode,...) to troubleshoot first.
Steve
Wow! I just love vehicles from England.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
KurtfromLaQuinta said:
Wow! I just love vehicles from England.
I know this ian old thread, but I just read Kurts reply. The transmission problem was just the gear selector switch needing adjustment. Had nothing to do with the valve cover gasket replacement. To replace the valve cover gasket, required the removal of a lot of stuff, intake plenum, a/c compressor... I don't remember what fixed the misfire. I think it was spark plug wire related.

The Land Rover is a good truck. I like it. It's great off road. Solid axles, coil springs, great suspension travel, 3.27:1 low range ratio,28.7:1 crawl ratio, auto transmission with manual control mode, stock 8.2 inch under the differentials, traction control that works well. My modifications include a 2 inch lift, steel bumpers, winch, sliders, & skid plates. It seems to climb over obstacles with less effort than the Trail Duster. I have never got it stuck. I have gotten the Trail Duster stuck, so I added the Track locks. I don't punish the Land Rover as hard as the Trail Duster. It cost me a lot more, I bought it as a 2 year old lease return. Also the replacement parts are much more expensive. It's much quieter and more comfortable than the Trail Duster. It's also smaller than the Trail Duster. Good for narrow trails, bad for cargo space. I like both trucks, and don't ever plan to get rid of either.
 
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