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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just doin some research here. Eventually Id like to swap my a998 trans for a a518 OD unit, i also plan on swapping from 2.94 open gears to 4.10s and a sure-grip. My question is, in your opinion is the 8.25 worth building or would you go with a 9.25?
I wont do any real towing and i dont plan on anything bigger than a stock 360 (gonna stick with the 318 for now tho) so im pretty sure the 8.25 would hold up, but id rather be safe than sorry. Any thoughts?
 

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If you are going to swap rear diffs, get an 8 3/4. Its stronger than the 9 1/4. Unless there is something wrong with the 8 1/4 you have now keep it though, a stock 318 shouldn't be too much for it.

Chris
 

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I'd rebuild the 8 1/4" before swapping in a 9 1/4".  I've just had a lot better luck with the 8 1/4".  I also agree that the 8 3/4 would be the best but they can be hard to find sometimes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Believe me, if i could find an 8-3/4 for cheap i'd buy it, but it seems like id have to sell my firstborn to get my hands on one around here, lol. But i figure, if i went with a 9.25 (or if i found another 8.25) i could take my time gathering parts and putting the axle together piece by piece, then just swap it in just a few hours, instead of trying to rebuild my current rearend and possibly running into problems causing excessive downtime.
Really my biggest concern is cost of parts and reliability. Either way, 4.10s and 28" tires should wake that little 318 up pretty good. ;)
 

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74 was the last year for the 8.75, 75 first year of the 9.25.  I've seen the 7.25 and 8.25 on vehicles back into the mid 60's.  The 8.25 was common with vehicle with up to a 400.  The 70 Chrysler 300 hurst with a 440 4 speed had the early version of the 9.25.  The 8.25 has more options that the 9.25 as far as limited slips and selectable lockers.  So, unless you're going to beat the snot out of it, the 8.25 should do just fine.
 

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My 8 1/4 rear has been dragging around my 33s for 3yrs now and hasn't complained at all.  I also have a 360 pushing my junker around and have pushed it hard enough to test out the 8 1/4. I say run it until you break it while you save for a 8 3/4 or a Dana 60...
 

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I have one all sandblasted and POR 15d ready for assembly, to go under my project 80 Volare; 3.55s brand new TRAKLOK and all new bearings.
sure better than the 7-1/4 I took out.
 

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The price of bearings/seals etc is similar across the across the different models.  I spent several hundred on parts for my 9 1/4 and then again on the D44.  (done over again, I'd have picked D60's for the cost of parts).

If I were in your situation, I would decide first what the truck will be doing, then select the axle based on that.  If it's just a street truck, then I'd pick the cheapest axle to do the job.  I do think you'll find 9 1/4 axles easy and cheap.  if one breaks, just get another axle ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ToxicDoc said:
If I were in your situation, I would decide first what the truck will be doing, then select the axle based on that. If it's just a street truck, then I'd pick the cheapest axle to do the job. I do think you'll find 9 1/4 axles easy and cheap. if one breaks, just get another axle ;)
Thats another reason ive been thinking of going to a 9.25, they seem to be easier to find around here. Also i'd have better luck finding one with a factory sure-grip than i would with an 8.25. The truck is street driven only so i know the 8.25 is up to the task but i figue if im swapping axles (i plan to build the axle then swap it in so my truck isnt sitting on jackstands for a week) why not go bigger. Thanks for the input guys.
 
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