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Submitted By: v737d
Date: February 10, 2009, 02:47:30 AM
Views: 5121
Interior Map Light Repair - Christopher D. Van Decar ((v737d)
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Photo 1
Supplies needed:
Thin sheet aluminum approx 7"x2"
Try your local hobby store (model railroads etc), a sheet metal supply store might have a piece since the size needed would easily fall into their "scrap" category, or a home improvement store.
Two #8 by 1/2" sheet metal screws (oxide finish if you want to match the rest of the screws)
Tools needed:
Scribing awl or a pen capable of writing on metal.
Sheet metal shears or something similar to cut the aluminum
Drill and drill bits-1/8" and 5/32"
Phillips screw driver
Ruler
Optional:
Metal oxide sandpaper, to deburr the aluminum
1. To make your new mounting plate scribe the aluminum with these measurements. These values are close but may not be exact for your light. So don't cut anything until you double check you will be able to drill proper holes. My map light housing was slightly warped so I had to make some additional small cuts to make everything fit. MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE!
2. Measure a rectangle 1/2" wide by 6 3/8" long. Then measure in 3/4" in from each end and make a mark, then measure in 1 1/4" in from each end and make another mark. From the long side of the rectangle measure up 1 3/8" along each of the two marks you just made. Scribe or draw a line between the two lines you just drew so that you now have two tabs sticking up off your rectangle. See photo 2
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Photo 2
3. Cut out your new mounting plate.
4. Using your map light as a template, mark the two tabs for the screw holes, drill these out to 1/8".
5. Take the mounting plate out to your truck and carefully mark where to drill for the dash fascia mounting points. To remove the fascia, there are five screws under the top lip and one smaller one just above the radio. You don't need to drop the steering column. Then carefully pull the fascia out as it is only held in with spring clips. Be gentle since you are tugging on old and somewhat brittle plastic. Then pull the top edge out first and the then slide it up and over the steering wheel. You may have to move some of the switches from the "off" position for removal. Drill these holes out to 5/32". Ream these holes just a bit larger than the drill bit so that the mounting screws can pass through them without engaging their threads. See photo 3.
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Photo 3
6. Screw the map light into the new mounting plate. Then insert the map light through the dash fascia and plug the wiring harness connector in. Insert the screws for through the dash fascia and then thread them through the map light plate before tightening them down. Now is a good time to decide if you like the angle of the map light. You can easily tweak the mounting plate to achieve the desired angle for the light. Once satisfied with the angle, install and tighten the remaining screws for the fascia.
August 14, 2005, 08:07:49 PM by gmule
Comments on Interior Map Light Repair
Dodge RamCharger Central
February 2, 2006, 04:33:51 PM by Britcannuck
Good thinking man. I have been screwing around trying to glue pieces of plastic on to replace the broken lugs. What an exercise in futility. Will fix it your way this weekend
February 5, 2006, 04:58:41 PM by jungle
How thick was the stock you used?
May 5, 2008, 03:20:36 AM by Bobcat
Worked very well!
I would only suggest that you make the bracket 6 5/8" long instead of 6 3/8". You can see in photo 1 how close the holes were to each end of the bracket. If you do opt for the longer bracket (6 5/8") you will need to change the tab layout dims to 7/8" and 1 3/8" (from 3/4" and 1 1/4").
I found that mounting the bracket to the switch first was easier for me.
I had to cut off a small tab from the switch assembly in order to get the new bracket to fit properly.
Also, it's not shown, but this bracket replaces the original bracket.
Date: February 10, 2009, 02:47:30 AM
Views: 5121
Interior Map Light Repair - Christopher D. Van Decar ((v737d)
Photo 1
Supplies needed:
Thin sheet aluminum approx 7"x2"
Try your local hobby store (model railroads etc), a sheet metal supply store might have a piece since the size needed would easily fall into their "scrap" category, or a home improvement store.
Two #8 by 1/2" sheet metal screws (oxide finish if you want to match the rest of the screws)
Tools needed:
Scribing awl or a pen capable of writing on metal.
Sheet metal shears or something similar to cut the aluminum
Drill and drill bits-1/8" and 5/32"
Phillips screw driver
Ruler
Optional:
Metal oxide sandpaper, to deburr the aluminum
1. To make your new mounting plate scribe the aluminum with these measurements. These values are close but may not be exact for your light. So don't cut anything until you double check you will be able to drill proper holes. My map light housing was slightly warped so I had to make some additional small cuts to make everything fit. MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE!
2. Measure a rectangle 1/2" wide by 6 3/8" long. Then measure in 3/4" in from each end and make a mark, then measure in 1 1/4" in from each end and make another mark. From the long side of the rectangle measure up 1 3/8" along each of the two marks you just made. Scribe or draw a line between the two lines you just drew so that you now have two tabs sticking up off your rectangle. See photo 2
Photo 2
3. Cut out your new mounting plate.
4. Using your map light as a template, mark the two tabs for the screw holes, drill these out to 1/8".
5. Take the mounting plate out to your truck and carefully mark where to drill for the dash fascia mounting points. To remove the fascia, there are five screws under the top lip and one smaller one just above the radio. You don't need to drop the steering column. Then carefully pull the fascia out as it is only held in with spring clips. Be gentle since you are tugging on old and somewhat brittle plastic. Then pull the top edge out first and the then slide it up and over the steering wheel. You may have to move some of the switches from the "off" position for removal. Drill these holes out to 5/32". Ream these holes just a bit larger than the drill bit so that the mounting screws can pass through them without engaging their threads. See photo 3.
Photo 3
6. Screw the map light into the new mounting plate. Then insert the map light through the dash fascia and plug the wiring harness connector in. Insert the screws for through the dash fascia and then thread them through the map light plate before tightening them down. Now is a good time to decide if you like the angle of the map light. You can easily tweak the mounting plate to achieve the desired angle for the light. Once satisfied with the angle, install and tighten the remaining screws for the fascia.
August 14, 2005, 08:07:49 PM by gmule
Comments on Interior Map Light Repair
Dodge RamCharger Central
February 2, 2006, 04:33:51 PM by Britcannuck
Good thinking man. I have been screwing around trying to glue pieces of plastic on to replace the broken lugs. What an exercise in futility. Will fix it your way this weekend
February 5, 2006, 04:58:41 PM by jungle
How thick was the stock you used?
May 5, 2008, 03:20:36 AM by Bobcat
Worked very well!
I would only suggest that you make the bracket 6 5/8" long instead of 6 3/8". You can see in photo 1 how close the holes were to each end of the bracket. If you do opt for the longer bracket (6 5/8") you will need to change the tab layout dims to 7/8" and 1 3/8" (from 3/4" and 1 1/4").
I found that mounting the bracket to the switch first was easier for me.
I had to cut off a small tab from the switch assembly in order to get the new bracket to fit properly.
Also, it's not shown, but this bracket replaces the original bracket.
