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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't know what to do.....My carpet is OK, with a few stains, and the floor's always wet underneath, and once I get to start running the RC on a regular basis there'll be more sh!t tracked into it from all angles and that'll mean car wash vaccuums every few weeks.......Rinsing it out with a hose seems like a swell idea. But, I'm a little curious about road noise and hot/cold air coming up through the floor. Would the lining keep that stuff out?

I'm thinking about picking up a roll-on kit from Wal-Mart. Seems so that would be easiest.

Anyone done this? I need some pros and cons.

I plan on doing this from front to rear, and possibly removing the trim panels from the rear and doing the sides as well.......Thanks!!
 

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if yer gonna wheel it at all do the liner / a daily driver and no wheeling keep the carpet

just the fact that you can hose it out after a day of wheeling is the greatest
 

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The carpet has insulation that (1) filters/deadens some of the road noise and (2) keeps heat (or A/C) IN. The roll-on coatings (even the spray on ones) do not have much insulating or sound deadening value. You could always install the liner, and put the carpet back in over it... ;)

-SM
 

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ive heard that the spray in liners (like rhino and line-x) actually do help to quiet things up.
 

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It depends on how thick the liner is for it to deaden sound and insulate the interior.

Ed
 

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Best bet is a compromise. Either do the roll on bed liner, then put the carpet over it when on the street. Maybe cut up the carpet so its easy to remove.
Or, plan B. Get a rubber mat to put over the roll on bedliner. It'll stop some noise and heat, but its mud proof and stuff. I think my PW and one of my RC's have factory rubber mat floors?
 

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I did the herculiner in mine, love it.
 

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I personally don't like carpet in vehicles.
The rubber mats do come with insulation (factory at least) beneath them to quiet noise and insulate like mentioned, I prefer that route. Mabey buy a new insulation kit or Dynamat the floors and install a good heavy rubber floor mat.
 

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anyone have a part number for the rubber RC mats?
 

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One downside to the rubber mat, i have one in my 85", is that they trap water in underneath, even w/ good drain holes. I ripped mine up today, due to a fire incident, and found water and mold lying underneath in addition to substantial scaling and rust, it hasn't rained here for at least a week. I think Dynamat makes a spray that you can spray on the underside to help with noise and insulation.
 

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My problem was that my carpet had BLACK mold and that is nasty NASTY stuff! Rip it out. You get used to the road noise. There is a lot of glue, especially over the fender wells, so be prepared to strip it off and down to the bare metal. I am still waiting to see if Herculiner would work for me. I have a couple of wires that will need to find new routes, should I Herculine the interior.

Now, interesting tidbit for all you who have Herculined your rigs. Will the Herculiner stick to caulking? There is some in my TD around seems and such and I'm not sure if it will stick to that.
 

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Yeah the stuff sticks to everything including skin. It took over a week for it to come off my hands.

Ed
 

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My interior has no insulation or trim except for around the windows, I routed my wires under the sill plate and up into a nice little nook that is on the other side of the door support.

Snow and mud sound really cool w/o any insulation on your wheel wells.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I found I had wires going to the rear cargo/courtesy lights, but after tearing out the headliner (it was sagging), I found a row of 2" holes running down both sides of the ceiling, so I'm gonna get some clear and red lights for tractor trailers and stick 'em in there. I also took out the vinyl sides on the back and plan on some thin diamond plate metal on where they were. I did notice shutting the doors makes a lot more noise now. But I'm gonna try 3 coats on the floor, 2 on the sides, and 1 on the ceiling. I think it'll look cool, so it'll probably come out retarded looking. But that's OK, its a weekend play thing, not a daily driver or show stopper..
 

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another thing you might try for sound deadening is a few squirts of expanding foam between the two layers of metal on the top of the cab. dont get crazy though, it expands enough to make dents. just enough to tie the metal together. and use a drop cloth, the stuff is nasty and WILL stick to whatever it comes in contact with.
 

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m-o-p-a-r said:
another thing you might try for sound deadening is a few squirts of expanding foam between the two layers of metal on the top of the cab. dont get crazy though, it expands enough to make dents. just enough to tie the metal together. and use a drop cloth, the stuff is nasty and WILL stick to whatever it comes in contact with.
But I wonder if this would harbor moisture and eventually start molding.

If it were me, I would just herculine the top and then get some sort of trim that you could use as a removable headliner and some insulating foam or what-not. Should it mold or you need to remove it, you just need to back out some screws; not permanent. My TD is currently set up like this, except the herculiner. Works great too. And I can't see my red wire running back to my alternating emergency flashers either. 8)
 

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i guess i should have elaborated a little more. just do a few "spots" to tie the two layers of metal together. but, still ventilate. i didnt think about mold, but i did figure if the whole cavity was filled it might retain moisture and rust.
 

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Yeah, I would try dynomat under a bed liner. The other downside of all bedliner I hear is that you get a lot of echoing inside the truck since the carpet isn't there to deaden the noise. Maybe dynomating under the headliner too might help this?
 
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