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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1988 rc custom 100....what's involved in the installation of power windows and locks where there were none before?
 

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I'm sure if you were to find another truck that already has power windows it could be pretty easy. They should use 3 large rivits to hold the power window assembly in. If you were to remove the old manual window stuff and replace it with the power window stuff I'm sure it'll work. You can take a dremel tool and cut out the switch holes to make them work. Don't even ask me how to wire them up though.
 

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I put them in my 89 and the plugs were already there. Look in the main harness behind the instrument cluster. The outline for the switches should be on the backside of your door panel.
 

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ya the newer trucks have the harnesses there already, good and easy. donor trucks make it easy on the hardware and wiring isnt really too bad at all.

another option is vpa offers power door lock kits for 2 and 4 door trucks and cars, i have done these and they are nice plus they can be bought with remote entry, there is also another company in summits book that shows power window kits too, dont remember the price though

jamie
 

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for the 80s style you could swap the whole doors. that would prolly be the easiest way to do it.
 

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I'm doing this right now on my '93. The new door I have is from an older truck with no power. For the door locks you'll probably have to drill a couple new holes in the lower door jamb for the actuator. The latch should already have the extra hole for the actuator rod to connect to.

The power window mechanism bolts right into holes that are already in the door. You have to drill / cut out the factory rivets and use short bolts to install the new parts. There is also a little brace that goes inside the lower door for the power windows. It has a rubber bumper on the top of it. I guess it's for keeping the window from going down too far. Again, all the holes are already in the door.

Only problem I have is that my new door is from an older truck where the door panel didn't cover the lower part of the door. I have to locate and drill new holes for the door panel fasteners.

I don't think you have to cut any holes in the actual door for the switches. You'll have to cut the door panels though. If you can find donor doors get EVERYTHING off of them including the door panels.

At this point you'll have your doors stripped down and it's a good time to put all new seals in them. I just ordered some from JC Whitney. About $110 for everything for both doors.

I'm about half way in the middle of this right now. I'll try to get some pics tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You do rock, LoFrontier....but this looks to complex for me. I may have to buy the power window and door lock kits and give you a call.
 

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I honestly think that using factory parts will be easier. Everything bolts right in. An aftermarket kit will require customization in order for it to work properly. If you go factory you know it's going to all match up.

Only problem will probably be the wiring.
 

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yeah but the connections are in the harness. just gotta dig them out.
 

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I just found an '85 with the all the window and door components. I think I'm gonna go back here pretty soon and get the parts. So you say all the holes should be there just have to find the wiring inside and plug it in?
 

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For the 80's as stated before, the wiring should be there. For the 70's, you will need to get all of the parts including the dash harness from the donor truck. The power window circuit is basically "stand alone", there is a ground and power for the harness behind the speedo cluster that you will need to disconnect. For the 80's check yours and make sure you have the plugs on both sides under the dash. I did this to my '73 W-100, and it took about 6 hours to install the factory parts in both doors.
 

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ok, I'm a little more into the swap now. My truck is a '93. I have no idea what year my new door is. There are a few small differences between them. The new (replacement) door doesn't have the mounting holes for the lower part of the door panel, doesn't have the hole in the front edge for the wire harness to go through, doesn't have the fore or aft vents in the door frame and a few of the door's internal reinforcement braces are different. I had to modify the one below the latch assembly so that the power lock rod could pass through it. All little things that someone with some skills can get around.
 

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The89Beast said:
So do I just need the regulator, motor, and switches for the windows; actuator and switches for the locks? Thanks.
yep, you need it all. The regulator and motor are all in one assembly. My lock and window switches are both in one switch block. You need the lock actuator, the rod and the little plastic doo-dad that clips the end of the rod into the door latch lever. You'll need the door wiring harness too including the big grommets where it enters the door and the truck's A pillar. I'll probably have wires in it for the speaker and power mirror. I'm not posative where the door harness plugs into the dash harness but I think it's behind the glove box. I can check on this tomorrow. You also need that window stop bracket from inside the door shell. It keeps the window from going down too far and skipping off the track.

I put the new seals and crap on my door tonight. Man, everything came out SO much easier than it went back in. Getting that glass back in was a B***H! It'll help to have an extra pair of hands when you do this.

If you get around to the install any time soon and have questions drop me an email at [email protected] I check it more often than I check this board.
 

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Holly Crap Kevin is on the board :eek:
By looking at those pics ill guess you dont want the door that is sitting in my garage ;D

And the door panles are bsically the same just the holes are diffrent but in the same spot as I have power panles on my manual doors (crank comes right throu the pw switch hole)
 

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On my '89 I don't have any wiring at all. On the fuse block the power window and power lock have no fuse and only a ground wire. I pulled everything on the passenger side already. I don't have the harness behind the glove box like the donor vehicle did. Should I trace back the wiring to the fuse box and pull that too? Also, on the donor vehicle it has some little gizmo in between the lock knob and the latch that plugged into the harness. I believe the donor is an '85. Any idea if I need this?
 
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