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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I need some help, I have an 86 w250 gas and I replaced the ignition switch now it won’t crank. When I was backing the old one out my dumb butt left the battery connected... I shorted something out because I head a pop and saw smoke. Every thing else works but the heater fan and it won’t crank. I’ve checked the wires past the relay and they are good, can even start the truck from jumping the relay.. the only thing I noticed out of place is that I don’t have power on fuse 1 or 2 on my fuse box. Please help
 

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Check the fusible links.
 

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On the driver side fender, right off the battery.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alright I’ll check tomorrow also the only relay I have on that fender is the starter relay, she’s been rigged before me .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Edit never mind it I probed behind them with my test light, found a dead one and ran a jumper found the issue. Now is it better to replace it with a fuse or another fusible link?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Edit edit , now it dies as soon as I release the key ... the only thing I know I broke while I was in there was the key chime switch.
 

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my diagram shows the MAIN power wire in RED to the smaller colored fusibles


if it dies when you release the key you either have a bad ignition switch or another burnt fusible link / fusible links are the ONLY method of repair and the diagram posted above shows howto repair them
 

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x2 with Dodgeboys. Maybe more than 1 link dead. also, you definitely want to use links - they are "slow blow" instead of "fast blow" like fuses. Otherwise any little fluctuation in voltage and they'd burn out. The links tolerate a moment of voltage surge if it isn't too high
 

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no need to poke with test light , those links have a special coating , it don't "burn" up , so they LOOK ok , but , PULL on them each 1 at a time , the one with the good wire inside don't stretch any burn one will stretch like a rubber band .....    there are 2 power out deals on the key , sounds like you blew 2 fixed 1 ..... yes use new link wire from ap store , same size you replace .. ( come in sizes like fuses do ) 
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys, from what I found I had a second one blown andddddd..... I accidentally unplugged the ballast resistor she’s running fine now I also saw videos of guys replacing all the links into a fuse box, wonder if that’s worth it?
 

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thats ok , but you should use the square "slow blow" fuse spots in place of the links . The links don't fail untill there is a problem , be it high draw from a burnt connector ( fan , headlamps, etc ) or some one shorts something.....
 
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