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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone!  I had my flaky computer replaced in my 87 RC about four years ago; the replacement was a Summit Racing conversion kit.  Everything has been fine since then except for changing out the supplied orange box ignition module a year later due to intermittent failure.
Two weeks ago as I was attending to my trailer after unhitching, I looked up and saw smoke billowing from the hood of my idling RC.  I shut off the engine and popped the hood.  The ignition module had burned a hole through its back.  I was able to purchase a replacement module (last one in town) but no joy once connected.  I had to leave the RC & trailer but returned a week later for what I thought would be the quick fixes--a new ballast resistor and a new coil.  Changing them out in the rain was not fun, and worse, the RC won't fire.
I am 2 hours away and will take my FSM and perform the VM checks (all of the wires out of the bulkhead appear normal, no burnt insulation) in a couple of weeks.  I am asking for any "real-life"  things to check that may not be in the manual or leads on what I should check first.  Of course that "new" module could be defective and now I am chasing my tail, so I will probably pick one up as a spare.

I appreciate your help and shared knowledge!

SOLUTION:
I headed out a few days ago with fusible link wire and tools ready to go.  I had ordered a Standard brand ign module and hooked it up first (with star washers as well).  I got into the truck and turned the key a couple of times just to check the status of the battery.  On the third light twist--BOOM!  Started right up! Scared me a bit actually!

Thank you all for your help! {cool}
 

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1975 W100 Power Wagon Adventurer Sport 318 727 NP203 3.55
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It sounds like the racing conversion kit is going to be either the 4 or 5 pin ignition from the 70s? If so and you have a single ballast resistor make sure you got the 4 pin module. Usually the fifth pin is a dummy on the new 5 pins but its possible to find one where this isn't the case. Also did you use star washers so it would ground well? If so run a jumper from where the module bolts on to the negative terminal and see if it helps.
 

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Make sure you're getting power to the module and didn't burn a fusible link (they're near the battery)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
KG5JXO said:
It sounds like the racing conversion kit is going to be either the 4 or 5 pin ignition from the 70s? If so and you have a single ballast resistor make sure you got the 4 pin module. Usually the fifth pin is a dummy on the new 5 pins but its possible to find one where this isn't the case. Also did you use star washers so it would ground well? If so run a jumper from where the module bolts on to the negative terminal and see if it helps.
Thank you for replying! Yup, it is a 4 pin ignition module(<86).

It has a single new ballast resistor (and still has a 1/2 sized resistor from the original setup with a condenser looking thing--for noise resistance?).

No star washers, but I will pick some up. The module is also only mounted by 1 screw to the firewall. Of course I will drill the other hole and use star washers. Would the poor ground have caused the module to burn up in the first place?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ToxicDoc said:
Make sure you're getting power to the module and didn't burn a fusible link (they're near the battery)
Ugh! I thought those fusible links were further up coming out of the bulkhead. Will now check the other end. I thought this would be such an easy fix! :(

Thanks!
 

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If still original, it will be a plastic-type molded group of 4 wires. Look carefully, tug on them, they may not appear burned from the outside.
 

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Just my $0.02, I've been seeing a lot of issues with new replacement Mopar electronic ignition modules, apparently the quality control is crap so they tend to fail a lot.  I would probably buy multiple modules, test them and keep the good ones for spares, or just upgrade to some type of aftermarket ignition control.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I so do hope that it's a simple fusible link!

Next issue:  are 2 of the links really 20 ga?  Very hard to find those--even MAD doesn't carry the 20 ga fusible links.  Is 18 ga ok?
 

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I believe so. Don't change the size; some engineer figured out the correct rating. You can easily find some on Amazon or at big parts chains.
 
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