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Ignition Codes 12 and 13 What does that mean?

2215 Views 18 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  lN5L816TO23LAq, 
U
So my 88 318 177000 R/C puts these codes out.
Any ideas on what this could mean or how to fix it? When the check engine light comes on, it bothers me. Also, I cannot get any power when climbing hill, which I do in North GA. I don't mind the gas money to put into the beast, but I want more umph up deez hills.
Thanks,
UGARAM
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U
Anyones,
Should I just change out my Map Sensor. What would that do? Auto parts guy says is easy. Thanks for that, but will it solve my code thirteen problem. Let's hope so. Also, in changing rear brake pads what tools do I need? Where should I jack my Beast Charger - location undercarriage?
MudFlap said:
On my 88 the MAP sensor is located on the firewall to the right of the engine, so you might look there, too.
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U
Alright,
Found the Map sensor and connecting hose. Pulled off hose, engine started to smell like gas, put thumb on hose, there was pressure and slight crack where attaches to nipple of sensor. Ready to replace hose but no idea where it goes in to under air filter which is in the way. Will put on new wires and distributor cap tommorrow, but similary they are partially blocked by air filter and such. Any ideas?
UGARAM
91PowerRam said:
janabrute said:
This thread had me thinking. I checked my Haynes book.

Its possible that the problem may not be caused by the MAP sensor. If code 12 and 13 is being shown it may be a fluctation in voltage output. SMEC/PCM receives information from MAP as a voltage signal. MAP failure should come up as a code 13 or 14 and trigger 'Check Engine' light. Code 12 should not. Check your alternator, battery and regulator as a suggestion.

Hey TaZMaNiak question? My '91 acts up when it is hot and humid weather. I believe the fuel mixture becomes so lean that it down shifts, stalls and back fires. You mentioned a 'stored barometric pressure reading'. Can that be adjusted or corrected for extreme weather?
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A bad MAP sensor or one that isn't getting enough vacuum will result in a stalled engine when the AC compressor cycles and the computer doesn't recognize the additional load. But this should happen no matter what the air temperature is if you have the AC on or heater in defrost. It's not a bad idea to pull the MAP vacuum hose off and check for vacuum and also spray some carb and throttle body cleaner into the hose. This will set code 13 so remember to clear the codes afterwards.
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Alright,
Found the Map sensor and connecting hose, which had small crack in it at nipple of sensor. Will attempt to connect hose tommorrow, along with distributor, but is quite difficult with air filter in the way. Any ideas on movement around or through filter? Also, where do I attach the MAP sensor hose under the air filter. All quite difficult.
UGARAM
91PowerRam said:
janabrute said:
This thread had me thinking. I checked my Haynes book.

Its possible that the problem may not be caused by the MAP sensor. If code 12 and 13 is being shown it may be a fluctation in voltage output. SMEC/PCM receives information from MAP as a voltage signal. MAP failure should come up as a code 13 or 14 and trigger 'Check Engine' light. Code 12 should not. Check your alternator, battery and regulator as a suggestion.

Hey TaZMaNiak question? My '91 acts up when it is hot and humid weather. I believe the fuel mixture becomes so lean that it down shifts, stalls and back fires. You mentioned a 'stored barometric pressure reading'. Can that be adjusted or corrected for extreme weather?
Click to expand...
A bad MAP sensor or one that isn't getting enough vacuum will result in a stalled engine when the AC compressor cycles and the computer doesn't recognize the additional load. But this should happen no matter what the air temperature is if you have the AC on or heater in defrost. It's not a bad idea to pull the MAP vacuum hose off and check for vacuum and also spray some carb and throttle body cleaner into the hose. This will set code 13 so remember to clear the codes afterwards.
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U
TAZ,
So, say I replace the Map Sensor and the hose is in ok condition, can I put some carb cleaner directly into that hose from the MAP Sensor?
Also, if I replace the map sensor and the code thirteen still comes up, what does that mean?
All thanks,
UGARAM
TaZMaNiaK said:
Remove the air cleaner..... ;D ;D ;D
Pull the crankcase breather out of the valve cover, and pull the intake hose off the ram air inlet. Lift the cleaner housing up and disconnect the small hose from underneath (don't forget to put it back on when you're done tho)
The MAP goes to the first (left) nipple on the front of the throttle body. Also, if you say you're getting vacuum at the MAP end of the hose, the problem is in the sensor itself. Replace it and the hose at this point.

Matt {peace}
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U
Dudes,
Tanks for the info, although it has lead me back to a great mech. So, I replaced the Map Sensor. Upon ignition, the Code 13 would immediatly come up and then the beast would shiver and die. IF I put it in to gear instantaneous death. At least I know that the Map is good to go, eh.
Any news will assist, and I will do the same.
Thanks,
UGARAM
Chump said:
Remember..."LAW of CONSERVATION of MATTER-states that matter cannot be created nor destroyed, but only changed in form."? You are right about evaporation but remnants of the chemical still remain. There is no real need to put any liquid cleaner in the port..just take it apart and clean it? Why take a chance? Also if sprayed into the hose, the rubber may deteriorate. If moisture can cause a problem than so can a chemical? Was just a small point to bring up for the best reliability. Peace Brothers!:)
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