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Discussion Starter #1
So I went and picked up a 1990 Dodge W250 to use as the basis for my next offroad build.Its got a TBI 360 and a 4 speed manual transmission.The only thing mechanically wrong with it is it blew up the passenger side U joint in the front axle so the entire short side axle is shot.The guy I bought from was gonna part it out so he started taking a few things off.He cut the fuel lines,pulled a bunch of fuses, unbolted the alternator,took the v belts,and unbolted the  rear driveshaft,and drained the gas tank.It does run though it least it did when I dumped gas down the throttle body.Transmission and transfercase shift fine. The plan is 37" tires,no lift, and lots of sheetmetal mods to make it a bit more offroad friendly.I'm planning on narrowing the front clip,making half doors(after winter), shortening the frame so its about a 110" wheelbase,bobbing the rear overhang,then finally dovetailing the bedsides.

I have some pictures but I'll have to put them on facebook and link to them because the forum software wont let me post them.
 

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{popcorn}  :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I resized the pics of it as it currently sits.no need for high res pictures of a beat up dodge truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm really bad with money so I spent just about everything on getting it.Even though I picked it up for $400 I had lot of expenditures recently so I have to wait until next pay to register it and fix some of the broken things and get it running.Seeing as I have to go to the nearest self service yard and find a passenger side axle shaft,I might as well pick up some 1/2 ton chebby 63" leaf springs for the rear and some 1/2" ton dodge 52" springs for the front to see if I can get it to work better. Then its cutting time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It pisses me of that I bought a 3/4 ton truck to have the stronger axles and running gear under it, only to find out the front axle is a POS CAD dana 44.Which is only strong enough to maybe handle a 35" tire.Seeing as the stock D30 sized U joint already blew up on the passenger side of the axle, should I even bother trying to find a stock short side axle to replace it in a junkyard or should I just go straight to a D60?
 

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If you are going to crawl a full-size with more than a 33" tire, I would try and find a D60.  You will be time and money ahead in the long run rather than waste a lot of time and money on the D44.  The granny gear of the NP435 will not be nice to the D44 axle joints if you ever have to start off in a pull with the wheel turned.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so should I try to find the chevy or dodge version?
 

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Chevy is doable, Dodge bolts in easier.  Chevy will also usually have internal hubs, so an easier 35 spline stub conversion in the future and some say they have better brakes.  Otherwise they are basically the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
With that front D44 I'm wondering if converting a dakota to a front solid axle using a ram 1500 coil/link setup would be a better move.Dakotas and rams have the same width frame so it should be a simple matter of cutting off the IFS stuff and welding on the ram front axle mounts.The ram 1500 is still a D44 but I would like to believe that a dakota weighs less than a fullsize W250,so in theory it should hold up better.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What size thread is the shifter knob on the transmission?I need to get a few parts at the junkyard and it would be nice to pic up a new shift knob,or at lease one that isnt destroyed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So the fuel pump is not turning on.I tried swapping out the ASD relay for several others but no joy.Before I yank off the bed and test the wires and the fuel pump is there anything else I can check?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How not to mechanic.

Step 1: invite friend over.
step 2: have friend unplug fuel pump connector, because he could actually fit his hand in there.
step 3: check for voltage at connector,assume wires are the same color as at the ASD relay-get 6v.
Step 4: try to figure out how less than a foot away from the battery we only have 6v through a connector.
step 5: run jumper from battery to connector,fuel pump still wont come on.
step 6: decide fuel pump is busted.
step 7: debate pros/cons on pulling the bed or cutting an access panel.
Step 8: Its a POS,  decide to cut access panel.Friend goes home.
step 9: measure where to cut access panel so it doesn't cut bed support structure.
step 10: mark where to cut access panel.
Step 11: cut access panel,realize you screwed up the layout and cut some of the bed structure anyway.
step 12: deburr access panel and hole in bed.
step 13: remove fuel pump assembly.DO NOT BENCH TEST FUEL PUMP.
step 14: take fuel pump assembly apart so you can see if some random electric fuel pump will fit.
step 15: random pump wont fit so reassemble everything,spend 1 hour getting the sending unit together.
Step 16: bench test fuel pump,it werks.
step 17: reinstall fuel pump in tank, replace rotten supply hose.
step 18: fuel pump wont turn on with key.
step 19: test all connections with multimeter,everything looks good.
step 20: stab wires with test light hooked to a ground.stab small blue/yellow wire on ASD relay.*Click*
Step 21: stab test light into blue/yellow wire terminal on ASD replay,fuel pump turns on.
step 22: start truck.It werks,the damn thing werks!!!
step 23: REALIZE I just wasted the entire day taking apart the fuel pump.Instead of checking for bad grounds.
Step 24: Make post on the internet explaining to the world in detail how much I suck at being a mechanic.

tomorrow I get to weld some tabs to the access panel so it can get screwed into place.yay.Then I need to make of list of everything I need at the nearest self service yard.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
From some online searching it appears that the ASD relay is energized by the the ignition switch and grounded by the computer.It also appears that the grounding circuit on the computer can fail.Would there be any problems with splicing a wire to a dedicated ground rather than to the computer?Voltage draws?Popping fuses?Burned wiring?
 

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I want that tailgate panel if-in you are gonna turn it into a trail rig.  ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
mopar65pa said:
I want that tailgate panel if-in you are gonna turn it into a trail rig. ;)
I can see what I can do.No idea how to get it to you.
 

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RedneckInTraining said:
I can see what I can do.No idea how to get it to you.
It's called cardboard and shipping. ;)

let me know how much and what the shipping is.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Anyone happen to know what length belt I need to run the alternator,waterpump and powersteering?The truck has AC but I'll be removing it and the air pump leaving just the alternator,powersteering,and the water pump that need to be driven.It looks like I can run crank,waterpump,powersteering. Then run a short belt from the crank to the the alternator going under the water pump.Anyone happen to know those lengths, or even better if a single belt could run everything?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So after I filled it full of coolant and let it sit, I noticed a large coolant puddle underneath the truck.Coolant drops on the oil pan sump.After closer inspection the freeze plug behind the bellhousing has failed.Truck is a 360 gas engine with a 4 speed manual transmission and 4wd.Is it gonna be easier to pull the engine out by itself, or should I pull the engine+transmission+transfercase as one assembly?
 

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RedneckInTraining said:
So after I filled it full of coolant and let it sit, I noticed a large coolant puddle underneath the truck.Coolant drops on the oil pan sump.After closer inspection the freeze plug behind the bellhousing has failed.Truck is a 360 gas engine with a 4 speed manual transmission and 4wd.Is it gonna be easier to pull the engine out by itself, or should I pull the engine+transmission+transfercase as one assembly?
Ok I'll only give you this info if you send me that tailgate panel. ;)

Pull the T-case then the trans. Anything you would have to do to pull the engine with all that stuff attached is more than just dropping the trans. Support the back side of the engine and slide the trans out. Fix teh freeze plug and stick it all back together. OH and replace ALL the freeze plugs while you are at it. ;)
 

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with brass ones ..... ?
 
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