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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was in the process of replacing the brake booster and master cylinder in my '78 Trail Duster, and when I began removing the lines from the master cylinder, the lines turned with the fitting and broke off.

The brake lines are rusted to hell, so I figure that I need to replace them. Does anyone know what size line and fittings I need and about how long each piece needs to be? I'm gonna try to get them tomorrow, and I need to know what I need.

Any help is greatly appreciate any help. Thank you.
 

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3/16" I am pretty sure...and you will need to re-use the fittings that broke off, and the ones at the proportioning valve. Dodge used a tiny line and huge fittings...and you can't get the fittings..you have to put them on yourself.

You will also need a good double flaring tool...I got mine at sears, # 9 47603...cost 17 bucks...works better than many 50 buck ones I have seen. it is not sears brand tho, but they sell it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
so i should just buy some line the size i need and do the ends myself? I wish i could replace the fittings, they're in really rough shape too. Is the proportioning valve on the frame? I've never done this before, but i wouldn't think it's too hard to do. Besides, what better excuse to buy a new tool:) Thanks for the help!
 

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yes, the prop valve is on the frame right under the booster. Make sure you copnnect the lines from the master cylinder to the correct port on the prop valve..IE...the one it was connected to.

yes, you just get the line, and I suggest getting a good tubing bender also.

I just redid ALL of the brake lines on my truck, and it's not hard, just THINK about what you are doing.

YOU MAY be able to get fittings in better condition at a JY, but I doubt you'll be able to get them from dodge or any auto part store.

You will probably need 2 lines that are 40" in length or there abouts. That way you will have a little extra in case of boo-boos. You wantr each line to be 1 peice tho, don't splice between the master cylinder & prop valve.

Make sure you take the old ones in if you are trying to repalce the fittings, and make sure it is the same.
 

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Carquest carrys brake line in stock in several sized and lenghts (At least the one I work at does). So I'm pretty sure any parts store will have it on the shelf. Ya just have to ask at the counter. Brake lines are one of the few parts i wouldnt pull from a wreck. Wyatt
 

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I am not saying pull the lines.....you canget the lines new...it's the fittings you can't get new. Dodge used some bastard fittigns, and no one had them when I ws looking...I had no choice but to re0use the fittings...

No, I wouldn't use brake lines form a jy either...but you can clean the fittings out very easily.
 

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I had no problem, with the standard lines, just needed an adapter to go to the bigger MC fitting. parts store had a big assortment.
 

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I feel for ya. I hate doing brakes on old trucks worse than exhaust. The threads will loosen up, but the tubing is always rusted to the fitting and twists on me so I have to replace the whole line.

Like TheRamChargerMan, I put all new brake lines in my truck this spring. The hardest part for me was getting the bends correct, but after a few screw-ups, I got the hang of it.

Make sure that any new lines won't chafe on the frame or something.

Ted
 

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screw ups...what's that ???

I ran my new lines the way I wanted them, not the way dodge did. I now have brake lines that are almost perfectly contoured with the top of the axle, pumpkin and all, front and rear.

Just take your time, and like I said before...THINK about what you are doing, and the screw ups should be minimal...but ya might want to buy extra line just in case...if ya don't need it, return it.

Try replacing the main line from the prop valve to the rear, in the dark, at a parts store, in the cold, alone, 200 miles from home, and 100 miles from your destination. And the part store had none of the fittings, and you have no flaring tool or bender.

I did it, thanks to the parts store manager lending me some brand new tools off the shelf. OBX showed up just in time to help me bleed them too......maybe he planned it that way ???

Just kidding with ya Mike !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK, now I'm starting to get upset. I attempted to disconnect the brake lines from the proportioning valve, and they are seized on their like a SOB. (They aren't reverse thread, are they?) I even pulled out the vise grips, and nothing. I'm beginning to think that I might be better off replacing that as well, along with the hard lines along the frame to both axles. What do you think? I know it'll be alot of work, but at least when I'm done I shouldn't have to worry about those damn lines for a ling time.
 

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TRCMan - will the tools you have work for stainless steel, have been thinking about changing all my lines also, and thought with all that trouble I may as well go for s/s. I work with s/s some so I know it can be hard to work with.
thanks

LWBob - sorry for butting in here.... I would change all the lines myself, that's what I'm going to do, even if I don't use s/s
 

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Seems when I swapped my lines that good old pep boys had quite the selection of goodies, and even the bastard fittings i needed and some of the lines were even pre made at different lengths, it was like 5 bucks for a 36 inch line with fittings
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I don't have a pep-boys:( all i have is advanced auto, auto zone, and a couple smaller ones. i couldn't fund anything i could use at advanced or auto zone. Right now I'm soaking the old fittings in PB blaster, and hopefully i can get the line out of them to reuse them. If so, I think I'm gonna just trim back the line that's there and re-flare them or whatever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks! I'll look into them. Awesome, they're in Michigan, to boot!
 
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