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how do y’all think would be the best way to repair this rust its not completely gone but it’s bad. can’t weld on it or anything or get a grinder on it well. i’m thinking maybe black coalck Ian 3-D printing up a tool to apply it. probably should make a thread for my truck with the amount of questions I have. if y’all want closer pictures I can add them tomorrow evening.
 

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That drip ledge? I think its where two pieces of metal join, the inner & outer cab shells. Mine is rusted bad too. I should hit it with a wire wheel then some sort of coating. My cab is black so I can hide it easier than if it was another color.

Bucky
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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You make new drip rails and burn them in. The best way to repair a rusty roof is by cutting out the cancer and replacing it with new sheet metal. You need to know how to weld and dolly metal and have access to a brake and metal shrinker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks, do you have to take out the windshield to do that? i have a welder and break, but no shrinker or dollying tools.
 

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Creating a new front section is a daunting task that most folks don't have the tools or skill to do. I can do many things, but that kind of bodywork is beyond my skill set. I think it's a talent (which CCB apparently has!), If it were me, I'd source a good front section (might have to get it from the south or southwest) and weld that in. With that, there's no hammer and dolly work, just the mostly straight weld to be ground and filled.
 
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Creating a new front section is a daunting task that most folks don't have the tools or skill to do. I can do many things, but that kind of bodywork is beyond my skill set. I think it's a talent (which CCB apparently has!), If it were me, I'd source a good front section (might have to get it from the south or southwest) and weld that in. With that, there's no hammer and dolly work, just the mostly straight weld to be ground and filled.
You're 100% correct about cutting out a section from another truck and grafting it in. That is certainly the better option as long as one can find a decent doner.
 

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I would just look for a complete cab. I just found a cheap 90, that had the body panels beat up, and swapped the good metal over. Ended up with a 360 TBI to sweeten the deal.

Hate to think of how many cabs with good roofs I scrapped over the years. This was a good cab I could not even give away 15 years ago. I kept the dash, and the floor hump.

You do need to be concerned over your states VIN laws. Most do allow swapping to a new body for rebuild, or restoration purposes. Or just get the title for the new cab.

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that’s a good idea, do y’all think a first gens would work because there’s a lot more of those around here.
That front edge of the roof changed somewhere along the line.

You can see here it is more squared at the top then yours.

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The 1981 and later trucks had a more square roof skin vs the '72-'80 trucks. The curvature for the windshield is the same but the rest of it changed shape a tad.
 

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This may be completely BS, but I was told that there were different part numbers for Lund visors between 81-93 R/C and pickup. That would make the roof front slightly different. Anyone know if this is true?
 
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Yes, the 80's RC kept the rounded roof line of the 70's.

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This may be completely BS, but I was told that there were different part numbers for Lund visors between 81-93 R/C and pickup. That would make the roof front slightly different. Anyone know if this is true?
I’ve been toying with the idea of picking one of those up but new aftermarket can be expensive and what’s on Facebook marketplace sucks right now.
 

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I’ve been toying with the idea of picking one of those up but new aftermarket can be expensive and what’s on Facebook marketplace sucks right now.
Some people make fun of the "eyebrow", but I have one on my F350 with the integrated lights and I love it. Unfortunately, so do the bees during nesting season. lol
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Some people make fun of the "eyebrow", but I have one on my F350 with the integrated lights and I love it. Unfortunately, so do the bees during nesting season. lol
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They’ve grown on me recently. I just want the regular visor, no lights. Truck still needs body work so maybe by the time I get around to coloring the thing, I’ll see if I want to pull the trigger on one. I was just never a fan of drilling into the top of the cab either though so that’s another set back for me.
 

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The std cabs are ones that got the angular roof edge in the 80's thru 93. Ramcharger and clubcab stayed the old profile. Not sure about the crew.
 
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thanks, do you have to take out the windshield to do that? i have a welder and break, but no shrinker or dollying tools.
From examples I have seen in the past, it would behoove you to take the windshield out to see how deep the rust goes. The windshield gasket mounts to a pinch weld that could be rusted out as well.
The SW is probably the only place you'll find that has a junked truck/RC with good metal. I know DVAP in AZ has a bunch of dodge trucks you my be able get new metal from, but it's quite a jaunt from SC. Maybe they can cut a section and ship it. IDK.
 

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All 3 of my R/C and a shortbed I used to have are New Jersey trucks and have been outdoors and in snow/salt most of their life and have no evidence of rust. Not sure how or why some rust like that. I did have a pickup that had more rot than metal though. A while back I cut the front roof section off an R/C that I scrapped that had zero rust in that area. Go figure.
 

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The std cabs are ones that got the angular roof edge in the 80's thru 93. Ramcharger and clubcab stayed the old profile. Not sure about the crew.
Yep, you are correct. The crew cabs remained the same also but I never thought about the Ramcharger roof, good catch. 👍
 
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