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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
  I bought a  Borg steering shaft ...problem is how best to remove the  shaft slip joint 

  up and from from the spline shaft ?? I've tried to pry and hammer / wedge it off using a flat piece of steel (not wanting to damage the face, gasket etc where the splined shaft exits from the steering box) to wedge against and later trying to hammer a long screwdriver using it's wedge each side to gradually work the slip joint up and off.. No joy.

Looks like my only option is to carefully apply the Dremel with cutting disks to carve it away till i can focus on making a clean lengthwise cut over the area opposite ...which encases the splined shaft. I've done similiar ( but not this exact part) before to get close enough to wedge both sides apart to slip it off vs getting to close and damaging splines...              any suggestions  much appreciated..


 


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Did you drive out the pin holding it on the shaft?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, did that...just a thin red plastic rod, that was too easy took 10 seconds, I forgot to add that..
Plan to pick up a pack of heavy duty cutting wheels. Carbide etc.
...rather spend an hour gently cutting and separating it vs trying to pry it off.
Not comfortable prying on that steering box. I got that from a later model at a JY about 15 yrs back for $35, when it was my occasional daily driver. It looked like it was recently installed on the JY donor, very tight, vs the OEM that I removed.
Back then you couldn't swing a dead cat around in a circle without hitting a few. Now D150 etc RC etc.. ar rare in JY on Gulf Coast,FL.
 

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No, there is a large split pin, probably about 1/4" in diameter that retains the body of the stock joint to the steering box input splines.
 

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Just to make sure we are talking about the same thing, you want to remove the body of the joint, show at the far right of this pic:



...from the steering box? If so, note the large hole in the end of it, that is where the split pin resides. Drive it out and you can slide it off the splines, though sometimes it can be a little stuck and require "persuasion". Don't get too happy in it as you can damage the steering box, but usually a prybar or something will pop it off without too much trouble.
 

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they fill the "split" pin he's talking about WITH the plastic you took out , now you need to remove what the plastic was IN If I recall correctly , a 1/4th inch straight punch will fit , CLEAN area so you may be able to see it , a round pin in a round hole 
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Elwenil: Yes... thats it...Auto Zone calls it a "steering shaft slip joint" didn't check re NAPA's term. I understand why you ask.  On the online auction  various sellers incorrectly identify it as a "steering coupler", which most of us know it as a rag joint.  TY for going to the trouble to post the image..
dodge82273: Ok, re the red plastic rod is just a marker for the split pin,  I guess to keep crud and corrosion out from welding the pin "in". We just came back from shopping, and I picked up a set of (metal punches) thinking there had to be only one hole, which had to be where I pulled the red plastic straw from. The set of punches looked ok....price $6 and some change. The other pic is of the adjustable Borg replacement. Nice unit.
Thanks guys for the guidance btw ...I ordered a Chiltons service manual for the RC... will look to see how they cover the R&R of the slip joint and the upper joint which in my 85 RC is a rag joint.
P.S. I searched you tube, and found some owners had rag joints at the bottom where my slip joint is.
Also I'm really glad somebody in this case Borguson fabricated an adjustable solution re the lower or intermediate shaft. I found and posted the specs for 4 different lengths used for the 1st Gen RC, D150 etc etc..  That (non OEM) rebuild kit for the OEM shaft, is not satisfactory, I tossed it in the trash.  A mystery why dodge went that route, vs metal flexible u joints....Again thanks to you all...Really glad I don't have to Dremel it off..Ed 

15 March 2019..  Sorry for the delay... I added two images to give others a look, at how much corrosion and crud can be found in the split pin hole on the "slip joint"... you would never know that a split pin was inside. Using the 1/4 punch made it very very easy...Once is started putting the hammer to it you could feel it giving way..a great relief.
knowing that it would be coming off. Again Thanks to you..  ED   
 

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The rag joint at the bottom is how many of the early trucks were done.  Both my '74s were done that way with a GM/Jeep style joint with square shoes that was vastly superior to the Chrysler joint used in the later trucks.  Not sure why Dodge used it, it worked great on the cars, but horrible in trucks and they definitely used it long enough to know how bad it was but never changed it until the model redesign in '94.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
  I guess the square shoes / joint couldn't hold up turning corners under the higher truck weight..  I'll bet if they enlarged it with larger shoes and a beefier steering shaft, it would have performed with the same reliability..
That  3rd Gen, was the Ram Pickup ??
I'll bet the hardware could be swapped over, easier for anyone with a welder.  My rag joint at the top end of the steering shaft still works very well.. I will keep it when I hook up the Borg aftermarket shaft..
I lifted my RC 3 inches, and I just used three of them with grade 8 aircraft quality bolts and nuts with those stock brackets that clipped onto the single wafer.. They all handled the angle of both shafts very well..  Occasionally I lubed them to preserve them with WD 40. They have kept very well, the steering was always tight so I will keep using them..  ED.     
 

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The square joint seemed to work find for GM and in Dodge trucks for several years, so I think it was a good joint and lasted a lot longer than the Chrysler one.  I imagine cost was a big factor since Chrysler most likely owns the design to their joint and had to buy the other one.
 

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Curious. I bought and installed one myself. The factory flat spot on my steering shaft aligned with the set screw with the borgeson shaft, keeping steering wheel straight.
Did you have this luck?
Just FYI I called borgeson about their instructions on filing a new flat spot on existing steering box shaft, they said it's not necessary IF the original spot lines up.
 

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None of mine have ever lined up, but with the steering only adjusting one way, keeping the steering wheel aligned is a bit of guesswork and usually ends up with pulling the wheel and moving it a few splines anyway.  Nature of the beast.

FYI, you have to be careful drilling the dimple on the steering shaft for the Borgeson shafts as the steering box input is hollow and has pressurized fluid in it, so drill to deep and it's a bad leak.
 
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