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Submitted By: mrpeal
Date: October 31, 2008, 04:32:53 AM
Views: 5875
How to install fuel injectors in a 24 valve cummins - mrpeal
![]()
(Figure 1)
Figure 2 shows the valve cover as you open the hood, i recommend giving the engine time to cool, i know this is basic in nature but it is pretty amazing how long this engine stays hot after you shut it down.
![]()
(Figure 2)
here in figure 3 you can see the 15mm bolts that hold the valve cover down. all but two can be done via sockets, the back two will require a 15mm wrench to get them loose, there are 5 total.
![]()
(Figure 3)
here is a picture of the 19mm crows foot wrench, most all the injector feed lines can be done by wrench, but if you dont have this tool it will be virtually impossible to get the number 6 loose, it is almost identical to a 3/4 crowsfoot, you could substitute it with that if you needed to.
![]()
(Figure 4)
next shows the valve cover removed, to remove the valve cover the last bolt will stay in the cover, turning the front of the cover towards the exhaust side of the engine you can slide it forward to remove easily, it is recommended thta you use cardboard between the valve cover and the top of engine compartment as the fiberglass will get rubbed and can drop debris in the engine, better safe than sorry.
![]()
(Figure 5)
here in fig 6 is a closeup of the valvetrain, as circled you can see the 8mm bolts that hold the injector in place, take the one bolt out totally that is closest to the exhaust side of engine, just break the other loose, then the holder will simply lift up and out. then you need to have the injector feed line loose at this point.
![]()
(Figure 6)
Now you have begun getting the fuel supply tubes loose, i suggest taking the intake loose as you will need the room to get a wrench on the tube nuts, the heater grid will come out and set aside along with the intake horn, set them aside and you will remove the supply tubes, set them out of the way just by slight movement, bending a little wont hurt just dont go too far and dont kink them. once the tubes are clear we are ready for the transfer tubes,
![]()
(Figure 7)
here is a photo of the transfer tubes, to get them out simply stick a small screwdriver in the hole that the fuel lines were in, pry lightly and whoala it comes right out.
![]()
(Figure 8 )
now we are ready for the fun part. take a small bolt, 8mm1.25 is what i used, and screw it in as shown, then just grab it with a pair of pliers and pull up, boom the injector is out, take a look at the injector now as you will see one side of the injector has a hole in it, this has to point toward the intake side so that the transfer tube can engage it and supply it with fuel.
![]()
(Figure 9)
now we install the new injector and as the photo shows the transfer tube goes back into its home
![]()
(Figure 10)
Now you have the injector closely indexed you can put the holder back in, as you will see when you do it it lines the injector up as you install it, tighten the bolts and move to the next injector.
![]()
(Figure 11)
now that you have all the injetors done you can reinstall the valve cover and gasket, if your old gasket is in good shape you can reuse it, if not have one ahead as they are about 60 bucks for replacement.
![]()
(Figure 12)
after all is done it is time to start up the truck, dont crank on it immediately, bump the starter and let the lift pump run, then do it again 2 more times, then your ready to start, crank on it with about 1/4 throttle and when it starts keep it running via the throttle till it starts to smooth out, it will run rough for about a minute, if you have trouble getting it to start then crack loose the 3 injector lines that you can get to and have someone crank till you see fuel, then give it some throttle and vroom your going agian,
this has been a great upgrade and i have been please with the results, regardless if you are looking for lots of power or just mild upgrade with better mileage it can be done rather easily.
Date: October 31, 2008, 04:32:53 AM
Views: 5875
How to install fuel injectors in a 24 valve cummins - mrpeal
(Figure 1)
Figure 2 shows the valve cover as you open the hood, i recommend giving the engine time to cool, i know this is basic in nature but it is pretty amazing how long this engine stays hot after you shut it down.
(Figure 2)
here in figure 3 you can see the 15mm bolts that hold the valve cover down. all but two can be done via sockets, the back two will require a 15mm wrench to get them loose, there are 5 total.
(Figure 3)
here is a picture of the 19mm crows foot wrench, most all the injector feed lines can be done by wrench, but if you dont have this tool it will be virtually impossible to get the number 6 loose, it is almost identical to a 3/4 crowsfoot, you could substitute it with that if you needed to.
(Figure 4)
next shows the valve cover removed, to remove the valve cover the last bolt will stay in the cover, turning the front of the cover towards the exhaust side of the engine you can slide it forward to remove easily, it is recommended thta you use cardboard between the valve cover and the top of engine compartment as the fiberglass will get rubbed and can drop debris in the engine, better safe than sorry.
(Figure 5)
here in fig 6 is a closeup of the valvetrain, as circled you can see the 8mm bolts that hold the injector in place, take the one bolt out totally that is closest to the exhaust side of engine, just break the other loose, then the holder will simply lift up and out. then you need to have the injector feed line loose at this point.
(Figure 6)
Now you have begun getting the fuel supply tubes loose, i suggest taking the intake loose as you will need the room to get a wrench on the tube nuts, the heater grid will come out and set aside along with the intake horn, set them aside and you will remove the supply tubes, set them out of the way just by slight movement, bending a little wont hurt just dont go too far and dont kink them. once the tubes are clear we are ready for the transfer tubes,
(Figure 7)
here is a photo of the transfer tubes, to get them out simply stick a small screwdriver in the hole that the fuel lines were in, pry lightly and whoala it comes right out.
(Figure 8 )
now we are ready for the fun part. take a small bolt, 8mm1.25 is what i used, and screw it in as shown, then just grab it with a pair of pliers and pull up, boom the injector is out, take a look at the injector now as you will see one side of the injector has a hole in it, this has to point toward the intake side so that the transfer tube can engage it and supply it with fuel.
(Figure 9)
now we install the new injector and as the photo shows the transfer tube goes back into its home
(Figure 10)
Now you have the injector closely indexed you can put the holder back in, as you will see when you do it it lines the injector up as you install it, tighten the bolts and move to the next injector.
(Figure 11)
now that you have all the injetors done you can reinstall the valve cover and gasket, if your old gasket is in good shape you can reuse it, if not have one ahead as they are about 60 bucks for replacement.
(Figure 12)
after all is done it is time to start up the truck, dont crank on it immediately, bump the starter and let the lift pump run, then do it again 2 more times, then your ready to start, crank on it with about 1/4 throttle and when it starts keep it running via the throttle till it starts to smooth out, it will run rough for about a minute, if you have trouble getting it to start then crack loose the 3 injector lines that you can get to and have someone crank till you see fuel, then give it some throttle and vroom your going agian,
this has been a great upgrade and i have been please with the results, regardless if you are looking for lots of power or just mild upgrade with better mileage it can be done rather easily.
