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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had to take off my rotors to have them turned. Got alot of vibration when breaking and the local shop said that even if the rotors are new (couple of months old) that they could be warped just from waiting to be bought. Anyhow, the local autocrafts shop on post can do it with the hub housing still on the rotor and that I would have to clean the inside of the hub good. No grease. When I started I noticed a heck of alot of grease in there. I got them clean and in the AM I am taking them for the turning. When I get them back I will install all the guts and wonder how much grease to put back in?
The bearings are full, so just slop it in the hub? Also, I am using Coastal High Temp grease, is this ok to use?

Thanks Birk
 

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I think your grease is ok - not much info there dude. I try to stay with lithium types. All I know to do is fill up the cavity. On mine, you pump it in until you see it coming out the inboard side. I don't think your later model is set up like mine. My type self destructs without constantly adding grease through the fitting.
 

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I usually just pack the bearings, put a smear on the races, then just a thin coat on everything else just to help prevent any rust on those surfaces should any moisture get in.
 

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I agree w/ Kthaxton, there's no need to "pack" grease in there, just a light coat. The bearings and races need the grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Job is complete. I wish that there were zerks in the area to use but oh well cant win them all. Thanks for input
 

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Ramjet said:
I think your grease is ok - not much info there dude. I try to stay with lithium types. All I know to do is fill up the cavity. On mine, you pump it in until you see it coming out the inboard side. I don't think your later model is set up like mine. My type self destructs without constantly adding grease through the fitting.
Ramjet, if you have the full time axle like mine then try using the Amsoil 100% synthetic grease. I've used it for years and you don't have to baby your bearings.
 
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