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I think it involves a spring compressor to compress the spring for removal. This is after pulling the steering wheel.
Of course there's more to it than that but that's all I can recall from memory.

Bucky
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have another question since we are sorta on the subject how do i make it to where my ignition cylinder turns on my vehicle because right now there is a stupid loose button i have to press to make it start and id love to just turn the key
 

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DatJosh said:
I have another question since we are sorta on the subject how do i make it to where my ignition cylinder turns on my vehicle because right now there is a stupid loose button i have to press to make it start and id love to just turn the key
?? ?? got pictures ?? ?? of this button
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well its just a button i assume to be wired to the ignition and its poking out the dash definitely not stock
 
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1. To start your RC.. do you typically first turn the ignition switch and keep the pressure "on" to crank the starter/engine while at the same time pushing that magic button ?
Do you need to keep the pressure on the ignition key to crank the starter or do you just turn the ignition switch forward ..(no pressure needed to keep it in that position to crank the starter) AND then you just press the button to turn over the starter ??
 
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OK.. This is only a guess.. It seems like someone wired in a "momentary contact" switch to duplicate what a defective "Ignition switch" once did. The actual ignition switch (see below link) is attached via two screws to the underside of the steering column, usually it's green. It is actuated via a rod connected to the ignition key - when you press forward and down on the key / lock mechanism, that rod moves electrical contacts inside the green switch to route power to accessories ACC, or Start etc etc. That green ignition switch should have a female plug - which will match and plug into the contacts on the top of the switch.
The green ignition switch once mounted on the column can be adjusted because it has elongated holes on it's metal mounting flange.
The below materials will get you on your way to understanding how the system operates.
I attached a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) re Electrical diagrams, that I got from this RCC site.. I'm not an electrician so I must concentrate and study the FSM, each time ..on whatever specific area of the electrical circuit that i am dealing with. I often spend more time studying the electrical diagram than the actual repair.
If you run into any unusual wiring into that green ignition switch, (probably going to that push button) and after studying your reference materials are unsure how to proceed, any decent mechanic can replace that ignition switch. You must be careful not bump into or pull on and thus disconnect any wires under that dash. You don't want to cause any eletrical shorts and fire hazzards.. It's cramped under there, I need to completely illuminate it, every time I go under there. I prefer an almost no heat lighting source like a battery powered LED work lamp, Wally mart has them cheap. If you encounter a lot of jumbled wires as I did, where someone hacked it up, and have not a lot of experience correcting same, any decent mechanic should be able to handle a basic remove and replace operation on those components, like that switch, headlamp switches etc.. Again any competent mechanic will be looking for things under there, that don't appear to be stock from the factory, that appear to have been tampered with, haphazardly connected, and should know how to proceed. I have heard too many stories of apparent prior owners or prior mechanics making a hash of the wiring underneath.

https://ramchargercentral.com/vehicle-help/presence-lamp-relay-ignition-wiring/msg1121349/#msg1121349

https://ramchargercentral.com/vehicle-help/8485-column-mounter-ignition-switch-(what-is-the-snap-in-plug-for-)/msg3419689/#msg3419689
 

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