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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I saw a post earlier on this topic, but there were not many details about it. it was for making a body lift kit out of 3" diameter urethane cut into 3" lengths. what durometer urethane would be best for this? im in Vancouver, Canada, if that makes a difference, and its for a '75 Ramcharger.
 

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I dunno bout the homemade rubber body lift ,,but on my old rc i cut some 2 in pipe in 2 1/2 in pieces and welded 2 1/2 inch round washers to each end to kinda "cap" each piece,,,im thinking it was like 5 per side,effectively making "body lift blocks, then i took out the old bolts,,,got some bolts that were 2 3/4 inches longer than the stock ones,,,put the "lift blocks" between the frame and and the semi worn out bushings ,,,bolted em down tight and did some steering shaft mods,,,and alacazam,,,,,,,it was 2 1/2 inches taller than it was before,,,that let me run some worn out 36 in swampers with little rubbing in the front during hard off roadin and no rubbin in the rear ;D it was basicly a free lift except for the cost of the bolts ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i was thinking bout the rubber/urethane because it would absorb some vibration (maybe) and also my dad gets it free from his work.
 

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You can always use a bunch of hockey pucks for the body blocks. Just drill a few holes and get some long bolts
 

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I've seen hockey pucks used lots of times to add an inch, but I don't know about stacking them up. Seems to me they might tend to splay out like a deck of cards if enough force is applied to them. Besides, body lift kits aren't that expensive. Whatever you do, make sure you use good quality grade 8 bolts.
 

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stupiddodge said:
I've seen hockey pucks used lots of times to add an inch, but I don't know about stacking them up. Seems to me they might tend to splay out like a deck of cards if enough force is applied to them.
I have also seen hockey pucks split...

as for the pipe idea...it would work,but unless you have access to equipment that will allow you to cut each pipe the EXACT same length,and weld the washers on so the finished product is square and the EXACT same length you could wind up with a free lift kit that looks just like that-a FREE lift kit...

a similar suggestion I have seen work rather well is to take 2" square stock (thick wall) and cut it into "bricks" 2 1/2-3 inches long,drill a hole for your bolt and bolt it between your frame and body bushings...I would reccomend replacing all your body bushings at the same time as well...urathane would be prefered over rubber...

you had mentioned wanting to use urathane to absorb some shock,look at the other point of view...with soft body mounts you will get alot of body roll,which make the handaling go down the tubes...the steel spacer method does not make the body mounts any stiffer or softer...it will ride the same after the lift as before

as with any body lift you should use new grade 8 fastners....
 

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if you are worried about vibration, you could use dodgmans idea nad combine it with yours.

get the pipe, cut it to proper length, weld one washer on, insert poly bushing inside of pipe, weld on other washer.

this way it is not just a hollow tube with washers. this might dampen some of the vibration.


eric
 

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lift blocks ive used 4x4 wood blocks and bought new bolts but they break when you flex the frame. ive also seen rollers off a boat trailer used for lift . but when your finished looking for all the parts and put up with all the agruvation you would gladly pay for a kit .. if you have luck like mine....
 

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I got my body lift by going to a machine shop and going threw there scrrrrrrap metal pile,there i found a piece of 3" aluminum
round stock,paid $10.00 for it ad paid anther $15.00 for them to cut it into 3" piecies and drill the holes.

Then went to ace hardware and got my bolts,ended up with a little over $30.00 in it and it works great

Just a thought and y 2 cents worth

Good Luck

Eddie
 

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AZ-Trailduster said:
just out of curiousity...why does it say:

NOTE: We will not sell body lift kits to any customer who is going to or has installed any suspension lift kit. The manufacture does not recommend its product to be used with a suspension lift.

whats wrong with having both a suspension lift and a body lift?
I imagine it is due to the higher center of gravity. I bet that a past lawsuit (or threat of) is the reason for the disclaimer.
 

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AZ-Trailduster said:
just out of curiousity...why does it say:

NOTE: We will not sell body lift kits to any customer who is going to or has installed any suspension lift kit. The manufacture does not recommend its product to be used with a suspension lift.

whats wrong with having both a suspension lift and a body lift?
even more out of curiosity, how would they know if you had or were going to?

eric
 

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they would probably ask, but then you could lie. In the event you didn't know they would refuse you if you had a suspension lift you might just tell them you did and you would be screwed.
 
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