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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't figure out what is wrong with my front end. I will describe everything to the best of my knowledge and ability.

'87 LE Ramcharger
318
Dana 44 front
not sure what t-case
727 3-speed tranny

My 4WD indicator light is on and my front diff has a gear whine. I assumed this was because my CAD unit was not disengaging it. I don't know if this is a correct hypothesis or not. However, to verify this I decided to crawl underneath the truck and check out the vacuum lines. Turns out there were some frayed and holes in a couple of the lines. I did a quick fix with them (i.e. some emergency tape followed by electrical tape). That didn't seem to fix it. I decided to lift the front end and figure out what was going on with the tires. When I did that, and spun the drivers wheel, it would not spin the passenger wheel so I concluded that the front diff was disengaged. Putting the transfer case into 4HI it engaged the front diff and when I spun the driver wheel left (as if I were in drive) the passenger wheel spun opposite (as if it were in reverse).

So I put the truck in 2HI again and decided to spin the passenger wheel, the driver wheel was not spinning however the front drive shaft was. Something else to mention, the drive shaft seemed to have some play in the transfer case (it would move about an inch before the gears within the t-case would move).

Not sure what to think or do. If you need any further information, please let me know.
 

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every thing you have described is normal, except for the driveline play... I imagine that play is coming from a slightly streched chain.  make sure the t case and front diff is full of the proper fluids and drive till it beaks...

PS  208 t case
 

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in 2WD NOTHING should spin / so you spinning the right front wheel and the drive shaft turning is wrong / either the CAD is stay,ing locked or your spider gears are shot / besides you should be turning the d-shaft to see what spins and not the tires / in 2WD with the tires on the ground the front d-shaft should spin freely with only slight resistance from the spider gears and t-case chain
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I fixed it for now, so I can get home.

What the issue seems to be is a clogged or broken vacuum line.

To fix it:

  • I took the CAD unit off the truck
  • Moved the fork to make the axle in 2HI
  • Shrink wrapped the hose fittings to not allow the fork to move
  • Re-installed the unit

Voila...fixed (for now).

Permanent fix will be to replace the vacuum lines
 

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l,d lock the CAD and install a set of WARN hubs and never look back
 

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DODGEBOYS said:
l,d lock the CAD and install a set of WARN hubs and never look back
X2

Chris
 

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takes ten minutes to do and will cost very little helps fuel mileage as well
 

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with locking hubs does that mean you have to get out and engage them every time u need 4 wheel? so what's the benefits besides bypassing the cad? someone said mileage? anything else?
 

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you wont get stranded in the mud from said mud clinging to vaccum line and poping it off.

but that's just what my experience was  ;)
 

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jmbruen said:
with locking hubs does that mean you have to get out and engage them every time u need 4 wheel? so what's the benefits besides bypassing the cad? someone said mileage? anything else?
As suggested in the post before mine, you will have definitive engagement of the front axle. The CAD motor sometimes fails to engage especially when it's cold or has mediocre vaccum. and yes, you will have to go out and lock the hubs, but you can disengage the t-case. I just don't know if you can keep shift-on-the-fly or not.
 

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You can shift on the fly.

Most northern state people just have them locked in all winter as a "just in case". At that point your benefit is mainly more positive engagement. No that's not the right term, maybe more reassuring that it will. Of course in sunny weather areas/seasons, you can free wheel to the trailhead and then do your thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Every day that goes by, I contemplate switching over to the lock outs.

Question is; how does it maintain shift on the fly? I had figured the vacuum CAD system allowed it to smoothly shift into 4HI.  If I have lock outs, wouldn't it kinda of be rough and jerky? Would I still follow the same procedure of shifting into 4HI (let off gas, shift into 4HI, then get on the gas).

Also, which hubs should I go with, Mile Marker or Warn? I heard the Super Winch were junk. I've looked at a lot of the How To forums and everyone said that Mile Marker is essentially a cheaper version of the Warn.

Any advice?
 

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go with warn I have the mile marker... go with warn

if you keep them locked in then you can shift on the fly
 

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pends on several factors tire size gearing and "foot hight adjustment"
 

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lopaka311 said:
go with warn I have the mile marker... go with warn

if you keep them locked in then you can shift on the fly
Seems to me, if you are going to do that, you might as well just lock the CAD and leave the pucks in there. ;D Leaving them locked will negate what little mileage gain from installing Warns you may get.

IMHO; lock the CAD, install Warn hubs and take the extra bit of time to lock them. Although I suppose it would depend on the purpose of your rig. If it's just for gettin' around in the snow, CAD may not be so bad... as long as it works in the cold. If it's for the trail, go with the Warns.

Just my {2cents}
 

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i saw about a mile per gallon, but i redid my wheel bearings with amsoil grease at the same time.
 
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