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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i believe i have a hole in my heater core. :mad: i had a large amount of coolant leak onto the floor board. does anyone have a suggestion on how to change it out without having to rip apart the whole dash board. from what i caan see i need to take apart the whole thing to get to it. i would rather not do that if i can work around it. does anyone have any pointers?
help please/ ???
 

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you didn't say what vehicle you are working on. w or w/o ac? on my 88 w/ac the suitcase has to come out, but no real big deal. i had to rpl the a/c evap, but rpl the htr core while i had it out. inside i only had to remove the glovebox, disconnect the heater - a/c controls and vac lines and a couple brackets that held the suitcase. outside disconnect the htr hoses and if a/c the a/c hose conntion at the firewall. a few nuts around the htr-ac box and remove from the inside. haynes ser manual has a fair removal/replacment procedure. good luck -- sheriff--
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sorry about that... 88 w/ac but the a/c does not work. plan on OBA in the future. thanks for the help. i will give it a shot.
rcnub
 

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Well, from the hassle I went thru a few years back...save yourself some time, and get it from dodge only if you have to replaced the core. I had major problems with the parts from NAPA, AutoZone, Advance Auto, & Pep Boys. The angle of the input/output lines one the core were not right, and would not allow the core to fit, and if you forced it, it would leak.
 

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Big timesaver: take the glovebox off completely. I found it helpful to have the radio, ashtray, and ashtray mount out of the way as well.

Agree with the Mopar only core. I have had two from NAPA in 4 years. Blew the second one this summer :mad: I finally put ball valves in the inlet/outlet lines---I don't need heat in the summer anyway :-\

Good luck :)

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks everyone. i ended up taking almost everything out. the radio, glovebox the temp controls, the whole front of the instrument cluster, the ashtry all of it. i got one from autozone. it seemed to fit just like the old one. i hope i have no problems . i did not have to force anything in so i hope i will be ok. if it blows again i will get one from the dodge dealer.
thanks again.
 
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PITA , I had to do mine a short while ago and ran into the same problem. I got mine from teh zone and it didnt fit worth a damn so I had to modify the lines and made it fit . Works like a charm.
 

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Mine fit perfectly from autozone. There is a major difference if you do not have or do have AC. Even if your truck came with AC and you took it all out tell them you have AC and it should work fine. I made that mistake of saying I did not have AC(took it out) and it was the wrong heater core. I love the custom dash-I can have the suitcase out in 10 minutes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Slanted_Mind said:
Big timesaver: take the glovebox off completely. I found it helpful to have the radio, ashtray, and ashtray mount out of the way as well.

Agree with the Mopar only core. I have had two from NAPA in 4 years. Blew the second one this summer :mad: I finally put ball valves in the inlet/outlet lines---I don't need heat in the summer anyway :-\

Good luck :)

-SM
how did you put the ball valves in? did you do a write up when you did it. that sounds like something i should do. in case of an emergency
 

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rcnub said:
Slanted_Mind said:
Big timesaver: take the glovebox off completely. I found it helpful to have the radio, ashtray, and ashtray mount out of the way as well.

Agree with the Mopar only core. I have had two from NAPA in 4 years. Blew the second one this summer :mad: I finally put ball valves in the inlet/outlet lines---I don't need heat in the summer anyway :-\

Good luck :)

-SM
how did you put the ball valves in? did you do a write up when you did it. that sounds like something i should do. in case of an emergency
Not much to it. I picked up two 1/2" ball valves from the hardware store, and 4 short pieces of 1/2" copper tubing. Flux & solder the tubes into the valves, cut heater hose lines just before entering heater core, and installed a valve inline with the inlet and outlet hose, held on by standard coolant hose clamps. I may have a picture somewhere...I will look.

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
that sounds fairly easy. i was making it harder than it realy was. i do that some times. if you can find the pictures i would appericate them if not no big deal.
 

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Finally got to my computer with the pics on it. The ball valves are right next to the breather on the valve cover, near the firewall. My heater core is still shot, and these valves do not seem to leak at all. :)



Sorry the pic is not zoomed in more. This is the only picture I have showing the valves. :-\

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks for the pic. do not worry about it. i can zoom it in with photo shop. i see what i have to do. did it change the temp that it runs at any? thanks again.
jake
 

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KThaxton said:
Hey SM, where's the left bank? (sorry, I couldn't help myself ;D)
{peace} ;D

rcnub-- Blocking the core flow off did not change my operating temp even slightly, once it opens the T-stat at 190*, it stays there no matter what. But I should note this is a freshly rebuilt engine (less than 600 miles on it) and the radiator was new last year...

-SM
 

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KThaxton said:
Hey SM, where's the left bank? (sorry, I couldn't help myself ;D)
NO, he's not missing the left bank, he just mounted his engine off by 90 deg on it's side....must be trying something different.

bet it sucks to change the oil tho........

;D
 

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TheRamChargerMan said:
KThaxton said:
Hey SM, where's the left bank? (sorry, I couldn't help myself ;D)
NO, he's not missing the left bank, he just mounted his engine off by 90 deg on it's side....must be trying something different.

bet it sucks to change the oil tho........

;D
;D ;D
 

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Might want to put a crossover with another valve in between the two heater hoses tho. That way you won't have that coolant just sitting in the hoses, it will keep it flowing
 

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phoenix827 said:
Might want to put a crossover with another valve in between the two heater hoses tho. That way you won't have that coolant just sitting in the hoses, it will keep it flowing
Good point. Mine already has a bypass to the lower end of the block....remnants of the circulating heater plumbing from when the '87 had to endure the cold AK winters....
 
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Now wouldnt making holse in the core support defeat the purpose of channeling air into the radiator thus creating more heat? ???
 
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