[area51]

Hello, didn't Kurtfromlaquinta write something about this? couldn't find it. anyone knows about?
'77 318

I got the heads and air intake off for new headgaskets, I'd like to make sure this engine has the tdc and with that the little gear for the ignition timing right.
Is that gear excentric?

thanks for the help

 

[emmett442]

You talking about the distributor drive gear?

With the #1 piston at TDC, I believe the gear gets set so that the slot is pointing at the left front intake bolt.

 

[DODGEBOYS]

read link below , it explains the WHOLE deal

https://ramchargercentral.com/vehicle-help/dist-rotor-will-not-line-up-ouch-!!/

 

[area51]

Thank you guys, as usual your the best!

quickly another one; with unbolting pass.side cil.head, the cil.head bolts, they are not supposed to make a suction noise? they are all wet with oil, and by unbolting them they made a hissing sound.
something like the piston was moving up or down, though I didn't move the cilinders

 

[Mojack]

Thank you guys, as usual your the best!

quickly another one; with unbolting pass.side cil.head, the cil.head bolts, they are not supposed to make a suction noise? they are all wet with oil, and by unbolting them they made a hissing sound.
something like the piston was moving up or down, though I didn't move the cilinders

The head bolt holes are blind threaded holes, it sounds like some oil has some how gotten in there, maybe from previously being removed. It's common to use regular oil for more accurate torque readings. The sound is just the air trying to get past the treads through the oil when you back them out.

 

[area51]

That's what I thought, but if the p.o. used that much oil, The readings could be very well off  due to hydraulic lock of the bolts?

I mean, using less oil (just a few drops) would have been better here, isn't it?

 

[dodge82273]

you are correct

 

[area51]

Thanks, It has been a long time since I did my last head gaskets, I guess I got a bit rusty as well

 

[dodge82273]

normally I run a tap ( bottoming ) thru all threaded holes as a part of my "prep" work , and a few drops of oil on the bolt .

 

[area51]

That was my Idea as wel, do you happen to know the size of the tap?
those sizes are difficult to come by at this side of the pond.

over here everything is Metric.

 

[Mojack]

those are 1/2-13   

 

[DODGEBOYS]

normally I run a tap ( bottoming ) thru all threaded holes as a part of my "prep" work , and a few drops of oil on the bolt .

professional engine builders DO NOT use TAPS on head bolt threads [or any threaded hole on an engine] unless the threads are damaged , other wise they use thread chasers that CLEAN and NOT cut threads

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/thread-chaser-sets

 

[dodge82273]

or I grind a coupla notches in a bolt ,longways , with a 90' edge in the insert direction  ,a place for the gunk to go ....I haven't been a professional engine builder since 1972 , when I left that occupation after the machinist "union"organizer  doing a shop takeover attempt , told me a 55 year old fella made 250 a week at union scale(pay) , well that was 1972 after all .. the 1/4thX20 valve cover holes often have "stuff" in them and they too are blind holes ...

 

[area51]

? Never heard from them before? but I see the point, certainly there you don't need damaged threads!

@dodge82273 yep, those valve cover holes could very well be the reason of many valve cover leaking oil...
Thanks for these tips,fellows.

 

[area51]

I found another headbolt, and also grinded a few notches in it, and it worked a wonder!
But now, I'm using one of these Fel-Pro HS 8553 PT-14 gasket sets with a blue and mettalic head gasket.
The leaflet in the set sais to follow oem installation guides, which in it's turn sais: 50ft/pound in sequence, and then at 95 ft/pound also in sequence.
And that would be it

Is that not a bit light? (If I compare that to modern engines?) and not even another go with the torque wrench after the engine has warmed up for the first time?

Please help? I'm a bit confused with that.

I started with the intake manifold, It seems to me that they speak somewhere about bolts goiing through into water jackets, and then put some sealer on that bolt, can I find somewhere where it sais which bolt to go where?

 

[DODGEBOYS]

the two bolts on each end[both sides] of the intake were the water ports are

 

[area51]

So that means for the inlet manifold, there are 8 bolts that I need to put some sealant on the bolts?

My FSM told me 50 ft/pound 1st stage, and 95ft/pound second stage, for a '77 W-200 318.
which could i use best?

 

[Canadian country boy]

95ft/lbs is not a lot for cylinder heads. The bolts are designed to handle clamping loads that high. It's critical to be that tight as the heads seal up the cylinders. You don't want any compression leaks. You don't need to re-torque the head bolts once you do your final torquing sequence with steel heads. Only aluminum heads need to be re-torqued after a full heat cycle. Just do what the instructions tell you to do. Only the end bolts on the manifold need sealant but it obviously won't hurt just to do them all if you are unsure.

 

[area51]

Thanks! I did all the headbolts in the Two stages (50 and 95ft/pound), with a drop of oil on the thread and one under the bolt head.

all the bolts from the exhaust I smeared a bit of copper grease at the end of the threads after I cleaned them with a steel bristle. so I get to undo the end bolts, get a dab of sealant on them and reinstall.
Thanks for the advice

 

[area51]

Today the concerning bolts undone, cleaned and with a dab of sealant reiinstalled.
After that finished the engine, installed battery and filled the carb with some fresh gas, since the engine didn't run for a year and a half. I couldn't get the engine to turn, must have something to do with not getting/too old gas, or no spark because too retarded/advanced? don't know yet.