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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have some broken manifold bolts.  I’m thinking my next project might be to get those broken bolts out, and install some headers.  The thing is is that I hear about fitmet issues that people run into.  The truck is an w250 89 ‘ long bed with an la360.  I’ve replaced the starter for one that was a couple inches shorter than the original.  Has anyone had any luck with a direct fit for under $200?  Let me know what’s working for you.  Thanks Chris
 

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VancouverW250 said:
I have some broken manifold bolts. I'm thinking my next project might be to get those broken bolts out, and install some headers. The thing is is that I hear about fitmet issues that people run into. The truck is an w250 89 ' long bed with an la360. I've replaced the starter for one that was a couple inches shorter than the original. Has anyone had any luck with a direct fit for under $200? Let me know what's working for you. Thanks Chris
Unfortunately you need to pay for quality.
The cheaper you go rarely goes well with the quality- along with fitment.
I paid right at $300 for my headers... over 25 years ago.
I'm still running those same headers.
 

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I know you're asking about headers, but I'm gonna offer a different suggestion, one which you're probably not interested in hearing. Headers are a performance component designed more so for mid to upper rpm power & performance. It's also a nice dress up component but it's been my experience that headers on a regular, daily driven vehicle isn't really beneficial.

Headers are designed to flow a lot of exhaust. However, at low rpms  such as those seen 90% of the time on a daily driver, headers provide no real performance benefits over a pair of cast manifolds. The good old fashion pair of cast iron exhaust manifolds flows more than enough at normal highway rpms. So the question for you is, do you really need headers?

The factory cast manifolds aren't going to win you any awards or cause your friends to drool, but they are dependable, cheap and last almost forever. They also don't heat soak everything under the hood. Unless you're building something healthy, I would recommend you save your money and just use the factory manifolds.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No that’s a good idea. I’m thinking go with that now. I could always replace the originals it looks like the parts stores have them.  Or reuse what I have they just look really crusty.  Maybe I’ll just focus on new hardware and gaskets.  Thanks
 

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I would agree unless you need the performance stock manifolds work fine.  The best success I have had with fitment were with summits version for our first gen trucks. I think they were around $190.  I have been able to actually get a "big" old style starter off with them still in place on my 318.  I paid the same for a different brand like 8 years back (I think Hedman) and had major fitment issues.  Had to cut part of top of frame rail 1/4 inch to get them to fit and there was no way to get a starter off either.  Just my .02.  Best of luck in your decision. 

Neil
 

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you can always sandblast the old manifolds and throw a coat of header or BBQ paint on them. i found BBQ paint seemed to last pretty good even tho it changed colors. i haven't tried header paint but i would assume it should last pretty good. i have done the exhaust manifolds on my truck twice in the last 7 year. if you are not in a rush i would even recommend taking the time to wash and paint the block. lot easier to clean and paint the block with the exhaust off. as far as avoiding more broken nuts and bolts goes start spraying them with pentrating oil a week or so before tackling the job and use a impact gun if you got one on a hot engine block. even if you just get the broke loose with the impact gun and have to wait to take them off it will save you a ton of work not fighting with broken bolts.

 

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You might want to check out the stainless shorties in the first link below. They're a direct replacement for the cast manifolds so your existing exhaust should bolt right up to them (at least it has on the trucks I've used them on). For $128.95 and free shipping, they're pretty hard to beat.

I've used them a bunch on the 5.4 liter Fords that rust away so badly, with pretty good results. I say "pretty good" because on one set I had to take a die grinder and enlarge a couple of the mounting holes by just a few thousandths. I also don't use the stainless bolts that come with them. For an additional $19.95 (also with free shipping) I use stainless studs and nuts like the ones in the second link.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Block-Mopar-Chrysler-Dodge-Stainless-Steel-Block-Hugger-Exhaust-Headers/311835734146?hash=item489adbb082:g:wawAAOSwSlBY3B33:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!53181!US!-1:rk:2:pf:0


https://www.ebay.com/itm/SBM-HEADER-STUD-KIT-BOLTS-STAINLESS-STEEL-SMALL-BLOCK-MOPAR-5-16-273-318-340-360/121637935455?epid=846879591&hash=item1c522f995f:g:mLEAAOSwBLlVQIK0:rk:1:pf:0


I'm not affiliated with either vendor and I've never used them on a SB Mopar so "your mileage may vary."
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Those are nice and for that money. 
 

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The problem with shorties is they only look good.the power gain over oem manifolds is negligible.At that point just run the oem manifolds,maybe even bring a die grinder to them.
 
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