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HEY ALL MADE OF METAT HERE ...A WHILE BACK SOME ONE MENTONED THE LIL SILVER CAN ON THE BACK OF THE GAUGE CLUSTER WILL CAUSE THE WRONG GASS READINGS. WHT IS THE ACTUAL NAME FOR THIS ITEM AND WHERE CAN I GET ONE... IS IT A DOGE ONLY PART OR IS THERE A AFTERMARKET PART



THANK

MOM
 

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You don't need to yell, (all cap's) the can in question is a voltage regulator. It actually functions just like a turn signal blinker, and gives an overall chopped D.C. voltage at close to 5 volts. If you want to test that voltage you don't want to use a digital meter. Put an old style analogue with a needle, D.C. Volt meter on a 12 volt scale and see what your output is. Another thing to ask is do you have gauges for the "Temp" and "Oil" or do you have just lights? If you have gauges for them, are they working correctly or as close as you can tell that is correct? They also work off of that same regulator. If they don't work right or at all, you may want to take the temp and oil wire off of the senders and see if the senders on the block are loading the circuit down if one is shorted. Let us know!
 

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More specifcally, they call it the voltage limiter. You might confuse the guy behind the counter if you ask for a regulator and he brings you one for the charging system, but you say its wrong.
 

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The part number is 3592899 at Autozone, and they are properly called a voltage limiter but they call them a voltage regulator some places. I'd take out the one you have in the back of the cluster to show them what you mean when you go in there to purchase. Good luck.

Mac
 

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As Ram said, your problem could be elsewhere than the limiter if your other gauges are not working right. In my case it was not the limiter it was a combination of an old headlight switch and the dimmer switch on the floor. I'd get the NAPA Balkamp dimmer switch if I were you. If you replace the dimmer switch on the floor you should also use new clean screws to install the replacement and also make sure all grounds are clean and neat. There is a factory original MOPAR dimmer switch available on Ebay for $20 if you want to keep original.
 

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macario said:
As Ram said, your problem could be elsewhere than the limiter if your other gauges are not working right. In my case it was not the limiter it was a combination of an old headlight switch and the dimmer switch on the floor. I'd get the NAPA Balkamp dimmer switch if I were you. If you replace the dimmer switch on the floor you should also use new clean screws to install the replacement and also make sure all grounds are clean and neat. There is a factory original MOPAR dimmer switch available on Ebay for $20 if you want to keep original.
Macario...that guy on Ebay is hosing people! You can pick up the original switch 1881938 from the dealer for around $10 or $7.50 online. He is using hype to make it sound like this is not avaialable from Dodge anymore and you MUST buy his as it's NOS! As long as he does not indicate a date code for the switch it's really not worth any extra money to a restorer or any one else He's buying them for $10 and selling them for $20 to unsuspecting people. Gotta watch these guys! :eek:

Voltage Limiter Picture
 

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Yeah, I thought $20 was kind of steep. Same for the 440 valve covers they are selling on there. Used to be able to buy a good set for 20 bucks, now they are going for over $150 on ebay. :)

Chump said:
macario said:
As Ram said, your problem could be elsewhere than the limiter if your other gauges are not working right. In my case it was not the limiter it was a combination of an old headlight switch and the dimmer switch on the floor. I'd get the NAPA Balkamp dimmer switch if I were you. If you replace the dimmer switch on the floor you should also use new clean screws to install the replacement and also make sure all grounds are clean and neat. There is a factory original MOPAR dimmer switch available on Ebay for $20 if you want to keep original.
Macario...that guy on Ebay is hosing people! You can pick up the original switch 1881938 from the dealer for around $10 or $7.50 online. He is using hype to make it sound like this is not avaialable from Dodge anymore and you MUST buy his as it's NOS! As long as he does not indicate a date code for the switch it's really not worth any extra money to a restorer or any one else He's buying them for $10 and selling them for $20 to unsuspecting people. Gotta watch these guys! :eek:

Voltage Limiter Picture
 

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THANKZ ALOT GUYS ....I PICKED ONE UP AT SOUTHERN AUTO TODAY IM GOING TO PUT A NEW WIRE HARNES AND A/C RELAY IN TOMAROW,SO I FIGURED IF I WAZZ GOING TO DO THAT THAT I SHOULD GET THAT LIL BUGGER AND CLEAN UP ALL THE TREMANALS ON THE INSTMENT CLUSTER.....


THANKS AGIN
 

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well i have changed the headlight switch cpl months ago and b4 that did the dimmer switch ... so i tore the dash out cleaned all the contacts and put in the new limiter.... guess wht the new limiter in it the lights wer a LOT brighter and the gass guage waz not even close to right.....??????? so i put the old one back in after cleaning it up too and the gas guage seem closer than ever but now the lights are dim agin......wht gives,mabey the wrong limitor?
 

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The limiter does not control voltage to the dash lights..only to the fuel, oil, and temp gauges if equipped. There is only one limiter made for the trucks and cars and a different one for motor homes which you will probably never find stocked. You could still have a ground problem at the back of the instrument cluster and you may have a second problem with the fuel sender in the tank. Sounds like you have several problems. Do you have an oil Guage and a temperature Gauge...I dont mean red lights. If so did they change any when you installed the voltage limiter?
 

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I've had similar problems for some time now- no gas gauge-(thank god for the swapped in speedo w/trip odometer)-tried grounding the fuel wire at the tank and the needle pegged out. Oil pressure (stock electrical) works fine, ammeter works fine, but the temp gauge doesn't work either. Could it still be the limiter or am I facing replacing the fuel tank sending unit???
 

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The limiter is cheap so it won't hurt much to give it a shot, I'd say most likely it is a ground/connection problem though.

If you do try replacing your floor dimmer switch, be sure to use new screws for a good ground.

Mac

mowgli said:
I've had similar problems for some time now- no gas gauge-(thank god for the swapped in speedo w/trip odometer)-tried grounding the fuel wire at the tank and the needle pegged out. Oil pressure (stock electrical) works fine, ammeter works fine, but the temp gauge doesn't work either. Could it still be the limiter or am I facing replacing the fuel tank sending unit???
 

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I had noticed earlier in this post the mention of the dimmer switch- had no idea that it was part of the circuit. I guess I'd better have another look at the FSM-suddenly questioning whether I checked the gound it the tank... thanks for the input....Glenn
 

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mowgli said:
I've had similar problems for some time now- no gas gauge-(thank god for the swapped in speedo w/trip odometer)-tried grounding the fuel wire at the tank and the needle pegged out. Oil pressure (stock electrical) works fine, ammeter works fine, but the temp gauge doesn't work either. Could it still be the limiter or am I facing replacing the fuel tank sending unit???
As I read the wiring diagram you should have a seperate ground wire at the fuel tank sender that probably hooks to the frame somewhere. Check this or substitue another ground source. If that doesnt work than it's most likeley the sender is bad.
For the temp gauge, do the same thing you did with the fuel gauge wire and ground it out and see what happens and get back to us.:)
 

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well with the ner limiter in i woulnt read full but work properly down to the E .... im am beging to think it is working corectly ... but im begining to think that the problem with it not reading F is a venting problm in the tank the other day while trying to squezz a few more drops in it after the pump shut off .... well i squezzed like 3 gallons in so im now thinking that it get a air bubble in the tank and wont take a full load of fule......... so next qusetion ......

the rollover check valve..... is that part of the venting system too ? if it is a venting problem it isnt in th charcol can i have if off of it ....
 

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MOM, what year is this and is it a Truck or RC? Since the fuel gauge works on resistence than you could still have a dirty connection, this is especially true on the older trucks.
 

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The sending unit float arm may be a tad out of adjustment? The other place to pull apart and clean is the wiring connector at the firewall. as you can see this area is a problem on the older models. You might need to let things break in, sort of speak, before you look for other problems. Maybe the new sender or the gauge have arthritis?
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

 
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