Dodge RamCharger Central banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just noticed tonight that some monkey connected 2 fusible links together and that the plastic clamp (blue) is basically gone except that metal piece that is still splicing into both links.

I'd like to fix that potential problem before it becomes a bigger one than it already is, but there are a couple of things that I don't know and hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction.

That's on my 88 RC, with the 5.2L EFI engine, and on the drivers side, right above the fender, where all the relays for the fuel pump etc. are, there is a connection of 5 fusible links going into one, what my FSM titles as main harness/main fusible link.
From that connection, I have one cut off link, and one looks like ripped from that 5-to-1 connector. One fusible link is spliced into another one, that is still connected to the 5-to-1 connector.

I have the color-gauge table in my FSM, but I have a hard time telling what those colors really are that I have in front of me. Now, one is a red/orange like color, which is easy to identify (red = 14 gauge), but the other is somewhat dark, I don't know if it was dark blue, gray or black. Now, I was thinking it should be my 12 gauge (=black) connector, since it appear to be the thickest fusable link going into that connector, and it's definitely thicker than the red one.

Now, after that lengthy intro, how do I fix that? Can I splice in a normal wire with a fuse box using those normal fuses like the ones in the main fuse box, and if so, which fuse do I need to use (amps)? Or do I have to absolutely use those fusible link wires? I know how to splice it in after the connector, that's not the issue.
The other problem is: where or what was the other fusible link that is missing? I couldn't find one and looking on the wiring diagrams doesn't really help either right now ???

I don't know if it is related to this problem or not, but my blower motor does not like being switched above 2 or it'll burn a wire and take out also the headlights. I had that happen about 4 years ago, don't ask me how we, a friend and I, fixed it back then. I can't remember, because I didn't really pay any attention, since it was not clear if I even was going to stay in the US or not, not to mention keeping the truck. Could that be connected in a way?

Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
552 Posts
While i am not familiar with your year truck, here are some thoughts:

fuseable links are a pain in the butt, but a evil neccessity if they are going to a high power item (starter solenoid, starter relay, etc). If it were me though, i would get an appropriate gauged glass fuse holder and use it for most of the accessories that you are having a problem with (like your A/C, which should be good with a 30 amp fuse). The best fuse holder to use (cause it allows the use of larger wire) is the "stinger" ones and such available at all audio shops. They cost like 10bucks instead of 2, but they let you hook whatever kind of wire you want to it instead of being limited to the small wire that is pre-attached like the ones you buy at the auto parts store.
The biggest problem with fuseable links is that most of the time when they fail, they dont fail a 100%. They melt just enough so you cant get a lot of juice out of them, but can run a very small amount through it before it heats up and gives you fits.
Just a reminder, if you do replace the fuseable links, they are suppose to be 1 size smaller than the actual wire (12 gauge wire uses a 14gauge fuseable link).
Remember:always use a fuse or fuseable link. Running a straight wire is just asking for problems.
good luck! 8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the info. I don't want to run straight wire, but a fused one. :)
What's the difference between the glass fuse you mentioned and a normal plastic fuses used in the fuse box? I've seen those little fuse holders in some eletronic store and thought it was a need idea to replace a fusible link that is blown. Plus I don't have to carry a lot of different sort of fuses with me as spares.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,046 Posts
I always replace the fuseable links with a standard fuse block and fuses,There easier to replace & diagnose when working on your truck :) most circuits I have use 20 amp fuses but one (the black wire) uses a 25 everything works just as before.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
7,995 Posts
Here's my .02 ;D
If you replace the fusible link with fusible link wire than the standard for most applications is to use a fusible link that is 4 wire sizes smaller than the wire you are protecting. Example...10 ga wire is protected by 14 ga link wire.

The replacement fusible link wire may not be the exact same color but as long as it is the same ga...it's ok.

The headlight problem was probably a fusible link problem and the heater switch is a seperate issue, I'll look through my wiring and see what else I can come up with. In the mean time go to NAPA and get your fuseholders...here's a partial assortment.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks Chump. Those are the things I was talking about. Fuse holders/fusible links....whatever you call them. I just don't like the wires blow up themselves. I like having a separate fuse in line there, like I can have with these once.

Regarding the wiring, I stumpled across some inconsistency, that I haven't found a solution yet. Maybe you know more about it. I don't have my FSM here right now (it's at home), but as far as I remember it's the R6-2 splice, where 5 fusible links go in. Supposedly it's like 2 orange (20 gauge), one black (12 gauge) and 2 gray (18? gauge). I have the black one, I have what appears to be a cut off gray one and I have 2 orange ones. But I also have blue one that connects on one end to an orange fusible link and on the other hand to 2 wires, a black and a red one, about 14-16 gauge, that disappear in the harness towards the firewall. So obviously that blue one was monkeyed in there and the splice between it and the orange one is melted as I said earlier. Or am I missing here some stuff?

Guess it's time to trace those wires one by one :mad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
and what's the difference between using one over the other? The feed in and feed out will be the same as they're now in either case, and the fuse is also in the same spot, right?
I'm seriously considering replacing at least those fusible links at that one spot with normale fuses. Haven't figured out though, which fuse I would put into say a 14gauge connection and what in a 12 gauge connection. Or do I have to measure the "peak" amp I'd be drawing and then put a fuse in according to that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,046 Posts
I measured mine but I have alot of add on electronics i, shure someware there is a chart for what amprege fusable wire trips at,Just never found one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Can I ask you what you used to actually measure that? I think my multimeter only handles up to 10A, but I'd have to check that again.
Only addition I have so far are lights, which run off the battery via a relay and are not even spliced into the main harness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't :( ....yet :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,749 Posts
I don't care for fusible links either. A previous owner had bypassed one on my truck with a regular fuse and it has never given me problems. Though I did re-do the crappy wiring job of the bypass. It really annoyed me when I found that clump of five links in one, so you can't replace just the bad one.

here's a page that has some fusible link info. There's some other decent reading on this site also.
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
29,389 Posts
The Mad link that Donk posted has good info. If you really want to learn about them, order the book they sell on that site. Its only $7.95, and its got a lot info about automotive electronics.
The auther/owner of that site knows his stuff. He is also is a fan of fusible links. He lists many good reasons for using fusable links over fuses in many different situations. I'd give it a read before deciding to get rid of all of your fusible links.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,973 Posts
KThaxton said:
The Mad link that Donk posted has good info. If you really want to learn about them, order the book they sell on that site. Its only $7.95, and its got a lot info about automotive electronics.
The auther/owner of that site knows his stuff. He is also is a fan of fusible links. He lists many good reasons for using fusable links over fuses in many different situations. I'd give it a read before deciding to get rid of all of your fusible links.
Hey - Just thought I'd throw in for the record here - I just ordered this guys book - He is a super nice guy, very friendly and helpful - soon as I said 'old Dodge truck' hes like, make sure you read my post on how to get rid of that stock ampmeter.... seems like a real good place.
My .02
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,749 Posts
Did you talk to Mark the owner?
When I called it took a few tries to get through. He answered the phone himself and as I made my order I could hear him scratching down the order on paper, and the packing slip was handwritten. All seems weird after messing with all these fancy high tech places. I thought he was nice too. We talked wiring and electrical and trucks for a few, including the ammeter bypass and headlight wiring upgrade. And I got my stuff in the mail just a few days later and everything was correct.

I agree the book was worth reading through. Picked up a couple new habits on soldering and such.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
29,389 Posts
Donk said:
Did you talk to Mark the owner?
When I called it took a few tries to get through. He answered the phone himself and as I made my order I could hear him scratching down the order on paper, and the packing slip was handwritten. All seems weird after messing with all these fancy high tech places. I thought he was nice too. We talked wiring and electrical and trucks for a few, including the ammeter bypass and headlight wiring upgrade. And I got my stuff in the mail just a few days later and everything was correct.

I agree the book was worth reading through. Picked up a couple new habits on soldering and such.
My experience was very similiar. Very friendly and helpful. He was so nice, I convinced my boss that we needed to order a bunch of his books for our maintainence crew, then he (Mark) insisted on giving a quantity discount!!!!.
I also learned a lot of soldering tricks and his explainations on current, voltage resistence was very easy to understand.
My $.02 (santak, sorry for the minor stray from the topic) :-\
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,973 Posts
One more little stray :)
Yes, I talked with Mark. Donk, I agree with the low tech part... that's one of the reason I like dealing with people like this - He's just into what he does, without all the morden hype. He said he wants to add more to his web site (pictures and stuff), but is worried it will slow it down too much for people with old dial-up connections... that's kinda cool, that he thinks like that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I don't mind the stray...interesting reading, just don't have time right now to do much :)
 
G

·
Heres another idea for you. I bought an 84 Ram, that had some interesting wiring done under the dash. lots of hand twisted splices, and not a single piece of electrical tape, or shrink wrap...

needless to say the no start issue was due to all the fuseable links being gone. I wanted to replace them with something more reliable, and mantainance free. so what I used was individual automotive circuit breakers. They are availale through NAPA, or other parts stores, or Mc Master Carr if you have a catalog.

They are small, and simple to install, and if you get a voltage spike, it interupts the circuit, but never blows a fuse or melts the wires.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top