[jonn6464]

Hey RCC!

Truck is a 75 TD.

I'm installing the gas tank and I'm not sure about how far the nut should be up on the J bolts.

To me, this looks like it's too far up. These are about 1/2" from running out of thread on the bolt.

I will say that the tank is snug and does not
move around. But, it's also empty. Does the tank need room/slack to settle once it's full of fuel and weighs more?

Thanks for any replies.

 

[SuperBurban]

That looks right. Better a tad to tight, then any looseness.

 

[jcm3]

I just did this a few times. Take a peek from the driver's side in front of the rear wheel, use a flashlight and check the vent tube and where it goes into the grommet to make sure that it's not pushed down too far or worse, pushed at an angle that will make it pull the grommet out or damage it. When I lifted my tank the first time I didn't do a good job of making sure the vent line that goes to the top of the tank wasn't being pulled while it was being lifted, so it pulled the grommet out and I ended up needing to drop it again and redo it. (pic below) I hate dropping the tank, it's a pain without a helper.

Mine is still really tight now (with the tank lifted, the vent tube is right up against the body), but it's going in straight, so I didn't tighten the nuts too tight, just snug. If you have the space, tighten them down.

Do you also have the metal cover that goes on after, which I assume is some kind of a skid plate designed to protect the tank? That will give it extra security if you don't go really tight on the nuts.

Btw, the pics you posted are really clean! No rust, nice.

Edit: This probably doesn't apply to you if you're using a grommet close to the stock size. I couldn't find anything so followed a tip on here to use a valve stem, but I think the valve stem method is too tall and the lip isn't good enough to hold it in. I just checked it and it pulled out again. Arrrrrrrggggggggghhhhhhhhhh!!!

I need to find something closer to stock.

 

[jonn6464]

I just did this a few times. Take a peek from the driver's side in front of the rear wheel, use a flashlight and check the vent tube and where it goes into the grommet to make sure that it's not pushed down too far or worse, pushed at an angle that will make it pull the grommet out or damage it. When I lifted my tank the first time I didn't do a good job of making sure the vent line that goes to the top of the tank wasn't being pulled while it was being lifted, so it pulled the grommet out and I ended up needing to drop it again and redo it. (pic below) I hate dropping the tank, it's a pain without a helper.

Mine is still really tight now (with the tank lifted, the vent tube is right up against the body), but it's going in straight, so I didn't tighten the nuts too tight, just snug. If you have the space, tighten them down.

Do you also have the metal cover that goes on after, which I assume is some kind of a skid plate designed to protect the tank? That will give it extra security if you don't go really tight on the nuts.

Btw, the pics you posted are really clean! No rust, nice.

View attachment 630169

Yes sir, I do have the skid plate. I'll put that on once I'm confident that the tank is in properly.

I got a pic of the vent. I looks to be at a bit of an angle, but I think that is due to me pulling on the hose and forcing it down. I'm going to push the hose back in a bit to release some tension. Hopefully, that will straighten the vent out.
Also, I'm going to make it change it's direction to not come out towards the front.

And yeah, I was pretty lucky with this truck, not a ton of rust underneath. Just some surface scaling for the most part.

 

[RWG75]

was just cutting j-bolts today. think I'm gonna put some heat shrink over the threads this time and see if that helps.

 

[DODGEBOYS]

That looks right. Better a tad to tight, then any looseness.

yup

 

[SuperBurban]

was just cutting j-bolts today. think I'm gonna put some heat shrink over the threads this time and see if that helps.

Interesting thought. I think I would add something inside. Vaseline, grease, or even the heat shrink that has the sealant inside. Something to take up the space in the threads to keep moisture out.

 

[blaze_rt]

I coated my j-bolts with anti-seize last time I had the tank out. I think heat shrink and dielectric grease would work also.

 

[Canadian country boy]

I wouldn't use dielectric grease, it's too expensive. Any grease would do, even a few good coats of paint would work. Anything would work that provides a durable barrier between the metal and the atmosphere.

 

[ToxicDoc]

Grease, almost any kind is fine. I would NOT use heat shrink. Any water gets in there and it'll hold it in to cause corrosion.

 

[blaze_rt]

I wouldn't use dielectric grease, it's too expensive. Any grease would do, even a few good coats of paint would work. Anything would work that provides a durable barrier between the metal and the atmosphere.

I keep these in the top tray of my automotive tool box:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Grease, almost any kind is fine. I would NOT use heat shrink. Any water gets in there and it'll hold it in to cause corrosion.

I fill all electrical connectors with dielectric grease then cover them with heat shrink. It keeps the grease contained (like the container it comes in) pretty much indefinitely. I learned that from an old Harley mechanic. Any electrical repairs he did to my bikes have not failed and i'm NOT a fair weather rider.

 

[Canadian country boy]

Yes, dielectric grease is for electrical work and not for gas tank straps. Just sayin. All grease is purpose made.

 

[blaze_rt]

Yes, dielectric grease is for electrical work and not for gas tank straps. Just sayin. All grease is purpose made.

Yep I agree with you, there are better solutions out there than dielectric grease, but if it's what you have on hand, it's better than nothing.

 

[SuperBurban]

You want something that will not washout if water gets in. Also something that will not react with the plastic in the heat shrink. I'm thinking something like the heat shrink that has the wax like adhesive inside.

 

[Canadian country boy]

This is the stuff you want....

Dual Wall, 4:1 Hot Melt Heat Shrink Tubing

Dual Wall is designed to meet automotive industry requirements for environmental sealing and electrical insulation.

www.grote.com